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Topic ClosedI need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
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David D View Drop Down
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Joined: 27 Apr 2015
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Posts: 26 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
    Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 12:56pm
Yesterday, I called the folks over at suburbanmfg.com asking about the socket size necessary to remove the anode.  Turns out it requires a 1 1/16" socket.  But, they also emailed me the manual for my model heater.  For those gathering their own collection of manuals, see attachments.
2015 R-Pod 179
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2014 at 12:00am
Welcome.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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MNMarie View Drop Down
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Posts: 5 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2014 at 10:00am
We are getting ready to set out this morning for our first camping trip with our new 176t.  Thanks to this post, we will have hot water.  Bill and I are grateful for everyone's taking time to contribute.
Bill & Marie
2014 RPod 176t
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Hairy Podders View Drop Down
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Posts: 217 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2014 at 6:32pm
sounds like a bad regulator.
Darryl, Julie & Lindsey
Cooper & Libby- Devoted Canines
2014 RP178
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Boomertype View Drop Down
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Posts: 108 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2014 at 3:09pm
New 178, 2015. 
At delivery, the bypass valves were in the winter mode. Everything switched to proper, gas and electric heating work. However, the gas mode kicks off whenever another gas item is used, turn the stove and the furnace quits. 
Turned off the propane, bled the lines and turn it on and light the stove, turn off the stove and once that reset the furnace but now it's not working. 
Any thoughts?  Bad regulator?
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2014 at 8:40am
Ah yes, the mystery hose. That hose is used during winterization. It is connected to the input of the pump and allows the pump to suck antifreeze into the water system. If the hose is left hanging and the valve is switched to it the pump will suck air. Hence your experience. Before de-winterization the valve should be switched back to the fresh water tank and the bypass valves reset to normal operation. If you have a few days search this forum for winterization and enjoy your read.
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1446 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2014 at 8:39am
Sounds like the hose used to suck antifreeze into the system.  The valve is normally closed and bypassed.  With the valve open and the pump on, and the end of that hose in a bottle of antifreeze, the antifreeze will be quickly sucked in and pushed through the entire plumbing system, wherever a tap is open.  It sounds like you had the valve open but no antifreeze, so you were pumping air.

TT
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gpod View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 May 2013
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Posts: 24 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2014 at 5:37am
While de-winterizing, I was trying to refill the hot water tank and the pump was running, but nothing was happening.  I found to the right of the hot water tank some white flexible hoses and a valve.  (It seemed to be able to turn on/off a drain hose that had a free end right there in the hot water compartment) I switched this and then the hot water tank could be heard filling and finally my water started coming out of the hot faucets.  Does anyone know what this valve is used for?  (It is NOT the bypass for the hotwater tank that was used for the winterization process.)
Matt
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 7:34pm
There have been years where I have only used the low-point drain to remove the water from the WH.  No issue with damage from the remaining water.  It would solve the seepage issue, too. 
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Posts: 1002 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 7:04pm
I use a 1/8" tube cut a good angle on one end and siphon the rest of the water out. I don't want to take a chance at - 30* or worse.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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