I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1247
Printed Date: 01 May 2024 at 8:01pm
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Topic: I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
Posted By: GoofyNewfie
Subject: I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 8:32pm
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Hi-ho fellow podders... well, we did it.. took to the woods this past long Canadian weekend. had a great time and the new Rpod 172 was awesome... even sorta figured out installing the r-dome... (still trying to figure out where to properly install the 6 clips that come down the side.. but that's for another thread ;-) )
my delema is figuring out the hot water heater... some people say its propane operater, and some say it's electric... and some say both... thus my confusion..
here is what happened... filled the water tank and turned on the hot water faucet until the air stopped spitting... turned on the switch on the panel infron the the sink and the reset light came on.. after about a min, the light went out... I am assuming that the water heater was on... using propane?? or AC??? not sure... none the less, the water never did get hot... not even warm... it didn't have a chill to it though, like the cold waer faucet.. I would say that it was maybe luke warm...I left it like this over night and the next day, the temp was still the same...
is my electric element burned out?? do I have one? if I do, how does it affect propane operation... better yet, how do I distinguish between it being on propane or AC??
If someone has the time, can they educate me on the water heater?? is there a temp control somewhere that needs to be turned up??
in need of some serious education.... :-(
GoofieNewfie
------------- 2010 RP-172 Tow Vehicle - 2003 Rendezvous |
Replies:
Posted By: photog
Date Posted: 24 May 2010 at 9:30pm
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Hi GoofieNewfie,
The water heater works on both, propane and hydro. To work on propane one needs of course propane, if the pilot light went out after you switched it on to propane the heater should be on and working, if ignition failed as a rule the light should come back on.
On hydro it works only on 120 volts, not 12 volt battery power. You can run propane and hydro at the same time for quicker recovery. On hydro alone it is not all that quick in recovering.
As an aside, while the pod is parked at home and plugged into hydro to keep the battery charged it is a good idea to switch the hydro to the water heater off, just in case that there is no water in the heater. This way the heating element wont get burned out. ------------- Heinrich and Elly 2010 Dodge Dakota Crew Cab 2010 Prime Time Tracer 205M |
Posted By: TerryM
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 8:13am
To use the electric to heat the water you need to turn on the switch shown in the picture. The red arrow is pointing to it. The inside switch is for the propane. ------------- RP-175 W/Lift Kit 2011 Ford F-150 4X4 Saint Augustine, FL: The first permanent European settlement in the USA: 1565 |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 11:54am
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Sound to me like the bypass valves aren't set correctly. Others have reported lukewarm water until they turned the valves. Find your water heater, and next to it will be 3 valves. One on the cold water line going in, one on the hot water line coming out, and one on a short pipe that runs between the hot and cold.
In "normal" summer mode the hot and cold valve handles should be parallel (open) to the pipes, and the bypass valve should be perpendicular (closed) to the short pipe its on.
In "bypass" winter mode (do this during the winterization process, described elsewhere here), everything will be opposite. Hot and cold handles will be perpendicular, and the bypass valve will be parallel. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Brin
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 9:03pm
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We had this problem also this year. After winterizing the trailer last fall, we forgot to turn the bypass valve when we dewinterized/summerized this spring. On the first trip out, the hot water heater was warm, the pipe coming out of the heater was warm but the water in the faucet was barely warm. After showering at the campground showers and hiking up a mountain top, it dawned on Craig what the problem was. Once we got off the mountain, it was fixed in 30 seconds. Good thing too, as another shower was needed after coming off the mountain. I still prefer my cramped little pod shower over a public campground shower.
Good luck ------------- Terri and Craig and Panzer 2009 - 175 RPod 2000 Ford F250 XLT Extended Cab Diesel |
Posted By: GoofyNewfie
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 10:03pm
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ahhh.. Thanks also Brin! I am 99% sure that I dont have the by-pass valve set right... and what you discribed about the touch temperature of the tank, hose and water, is exactly what I am experiencing... it seals the deal.. cant wait to get out to hthe pod to play with it again... ------------- 2010 RP-172 Tow Vehicle - 2003 Rendezvous |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 11:07pm
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Let us know what you find!
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: GoofyNewfie
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 6:49pm
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Hi Folks,
Just wanted to let all know that I have fixed my water heater issues... the first issue was that I never had the by-pass valve turned to the 'off' position.... thus the cold water was mixing with the hot from the tank... the 2nd issue was that I found the on/off switch for the AC to the tank located inside the outside vent compartment... it was off and had a small cotter pin in it so that it could not be turned on until removed... I removed the pin and turned on the AC to the tank... BOY THAT WATER CAN GET HOT.... FAST!!!
Thanks againfor all your help..
Mike ------------- 2010 RP-172 Tow Vehicle - 2003 Rendezvous |
Posted By: barbanjoe
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 10:24pm
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I have looked and only have the ac switch with the cotter pin in it . I even crawled under the pod and do not see the bypass valves, am I missing them? my pod is new feb 2010, and my water is hot only for short times and cools off. ------------- BarbanJoe 010 Rpod 171 02 Jeep 4x4 12 Ram 1500 |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 11:03pm
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You need to find the inside compartment where the water heater is located. On the 171 it is under the rear bed's mattress, to the right. There are 3 screws. The WH and pump are both there, nice for winterizing.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: barbanjoe
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 11:11pm
thanks much for the help I'll look next weekend , working doubles all week  ------------- BarbanJoe 010 Rpod 171 02 Jeep 4x4 12 Ram 1500 |
Posted By: barbanjoe
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 11:16pm
I don't think we need to winterize, we moved from central pennsy to arizona 8 years ago and I usually wear shorts on xmas day, LOL  ------------- BarbanJoe 010 Rpod 171 02 Jeep 4x4 12 Ram 1500 |
Posted By: tort and hare
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 12:05am
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I'm also learning where everything is on my 175 (2010 model). After searching for my hot water heater by-pass valves, I located them behind a small access panel in the rear storage area (left side). 4 small screws held it in. That being found, I could not see or feel them. I ended up crawling through the right side storage area door to see if they were even in there. They were, and in the Summer mode (by-pass valve closed). Possibly could also be accessed by removing mattress and plywood under it, however I didn't check this possibility. ------------- Tortoise and the Hare |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 10:54am
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Oh, and in case you didn't know you can use the electric mode and gas mode at the same time, for faster recovery times when you have full hookups. The gas thermostat trigger point is set slightly higher so the electric element will maintain the temperature most of the time, but when you jump in the shower the gas burner will kick on too.
When we have electric but no sewer I'll only turn on the electric mode since we only need hot water for washing hands and dishes. I don't like dealing with portable totes ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370230122353&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=12dd24051290a0e202b202f2fd3ada39&rvr_id=&ua=WVI7&itemid=370230122353 - like this ) so we'll just use the bath house for showers.
And of course you can only use the gas mode in dry camp unless you run a generator. The electric element is one of the 3 things on the 'pod that can only run on 120 and not 12 volts. Doesn't make much sense to use a genset just for this since gas has a much faster recovery time than electric. The electric element doesn't add much to recovery when they are both on. But if you happen to have the genset running for something else and have the spare wattage available, it does help some. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: vandallc
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2010 at 12:43pm
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I have been unable to get the water heater to work on LP alone and will take it in to a dealer for warranty work but first wanted to see if anyone had suggestions as to what I might try trouble shooting wise before I make the trip to a dealer. Here is what I have and have tried.
2011 model 177
Insured that gas is adequate by testing the stove and using LP on the refrig which both worked.
Tried with the electric switch in the compartment near the gas jet in both the on and off position ------------- vandallc 2011 177 2003 Lincoln Navigator |
Posted By: vandallc
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2010 at 12:46pm
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Sorry apparently hit send before I was finished...
Insured that water was in the tank and the water and tank were both cooled down from heating the water using electric.
When I flip the switch (inside the pod) the ignition attempts three times as expected but no ignition occurs and I see no evidence that gas is coming from the vent.
Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
Generally still pretty happy with the pod but boy the documentation is poor and disjointed.
------------- vandallc 2011 177 2003 Lincoln Navigator |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2010 at 4:56pm
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The documentation is almost worthless, yes. A shot in the dark - on my popup there was a valve where the water heater connected to the gas line. I don't know if they have one on the 'pod but its worth a look. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: vandallc
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2010 at 6:22pm
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hmmm. I think I can rule that out because it did actually fire up one time and the dealer says is worked on check out. I guess I am in for a warranty run to the nearest dealer that will service. Thanks. ------------- vandallc 2011 177 2003 Lincoln Navigator |
Posted By: TIDALWAVE
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 10:21am
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A word of advice...I don't like to leave water sit in my hot water heater when the Pod is stored between trips. I found that my domestic water (and a few camp ground water supplies) tends to use up the magnesium anode rod quite quickly if the tank is allowed to sit full. The used magnesium tends to form a white material in the tank which eventually clogs the sink aerator and stops up the shower nozzle. I also don't like the idea of drinking the dissolved magnesium. If I plan on storing the Pod for more than a few days, I open the sink faucet to relieve any existing water pressure...unscrew the anode rod and drain the water heater. I temporarily replace the rod with a similar diameter/thread PVC end plug (I don't want vermin to crawl into the heater tank). WARNING...adjacent to the anode rod port, I used a permanent marking pen to write a warning on the water heater to make certain that I have shut off the 110VAC heater switch. I plug in the Pod every so often to keep the batteries charged, and it would only take a few seconds for the dry electric heater rod to burn itself out. So when I remove the anode rod I see the warning to shut off the electric switch. I carry a trip checklist and the first item is 'replace the anode rod and fill the heater tank'. ------------- TIDALWAVE |
Posted By: Tri-Pod
Date Posted: 31 May 2011 at 8:44am
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I found your post while reading about water heaters. Just wanted to say what great advise. Thanks. There is so little good and clear documentation on the water heater. Clark ------------- 2010 PR 176 sold 2012 replaced with 2013 SP 240 w outside kitchen 2012 Toyota Tundra Crew Max 4x2 5.7L V8 Me, My Honey, and Max our GSP |
Posted By: PaddyMorris
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 11:21am
| So if you are just using propane, do you turn off the outside water heater switch? Or if you are plugged into an outlet do you just turn on the outside switch and don't use the inside water heater control? Or do you need to turn on the switch on the outside of the trailer to get the heater to work at all? |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 5:15pm
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If you are in dry camp (no hookups), you can leave the outside switch off and the inside switch on, for propane-only.
If you have full hookups and plan on taking showers in the 'pod I recommend turning both switches on. It gives you a faster "recovery time" (re-heat time) so if someone is taking a shower right after you they don't have to wait as long to get in. The system is designed so the electric element will keep it hot through the day, and when you wash dishes or take a shower the propane will kick on, too. Saves on propane.
Finally, if you only have electric hookups, or only electric and water but no sewer, you can just use the outside switch for electric-only. No sewer usually means no showers since they will fill your gray tank very quickly, so there is no need to turn on the propane switch. You'll only need hot water for washing hands and dishes. You can use large wheeled totes designed to let you dump your tanks and then tow the waste water to a dump station, so if you don't mind this you can do showers in the 'pod with no sewer hookup. Personally, its a big hassle and extra expense and you have to lug around huge totes, so I just use the campground shower.
You can also go elecric-only if you run out of propane during a trip, just be aware that the electric element has a slower recovery rate than propane so you'll have to wait a bit between showers. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: PaddyMorris
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 5:50pm
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thanks, Paddy. |
Posted By: SchipperPod
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2013 at 3:35pm
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Hi, Doug! I'm still a bit confused on the water heater. I see the exterior cover panel to the water heater (where the electric on/off switch is located like in the picture posted here above - outside the pod), but I don't see the 3 valves anywhere. Are the valves on the inside of the unit somewhere? Also, I'm a bit confused on how water flows to and from the water heater. As I use hot water, is new water drawn into the heater - like my water heater does at home? If I'm starting out on a dry camping trip, how do I fill both the 30 gal. fresh water tank AND the 6 gal. water heater tank before leaving? How do I drain water just from the water heater when I return home? I don't see where the actual 6 gal. tank is - just from looking at what's under the panel outside... ------------- Happy tails and trails! Teri & Jeff Black Plus 4 Schipperkes: Kodi, Jessie, Maggie & Bear 2014 R-Pod 178 2013 Santa Fe Sport Turbo |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2013 at 6:26pm
The three valves are inside in front of the WH
When you fill your fresh water tank, you have to turn on the pump to fill HWT Be sure to open the faucet to let the air out of the tank. When draining the hot water tank (no pump) open faucet to relieve pressure then remove anode from tank. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 1:59pm
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I THOUGHT I had it all figured out... Note that after I drained the water heater and put the rod back in, I did the bleach-mixture-fill-the-fr tank- procedure; Couldn't get water thru the hot water tap fixture until I OPENED the middle valve. Now I'm all confused. Please, someone explain what function each of the three valves have in this photo, and I shall be forever grateful :)  ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 4:43pm
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In the picture you have shown, the two open valves allow water to freely travel through the WH, and the closed one on the bypass, keeps it from "shorting the circuit". When you reverse the positions of the valves, the water stops, and turns around through the "short" instead of entering the WH. Why were you sanitizing the system at this time of year? (just curious..) ------------- |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 5:20pm
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Why, when I OPENED the middle valve, did water then flow through and come out my hot water faucet after I had filled my fresh water tank? It didn't seem to come out but 'air bubbles' & wheezing noises when I had that middle valve closed? Second part of this new question...when I winterize...I take it, then, the valve going IN to the heater, and the one coming OUT (the top and bottom valves) should be CLOSED, to prevent the antifreeze from entering the WH. I assume the middle valve should be 'open' to allow antifreeze to 'go around' the water heater---it really 'bypasses' the VALVES, and not the heater, because the valves are keeping antifreeze from entering the heater, right? ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 5:37pm
------------- |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 5:54pm
 OOHHHHhhhhhhhhhh GOT IT, Mark, Sue, and Maggie!!! Thank you!!! |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 3:42pm
When I remove the anode rod, the water pours into grooves of the outer rim..and seeps down along the inside of the Rpod, actually seeping out the sprayed-on foam around the low point drain. Is there any way to avoid this other than my ridiculous visquine and masking tape?
------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 4:04pm
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Mine is heavily siliconed/caulked in those areas, I have not had any interior water problems from removing the anode rod. and you mentioned it is coming out by the low water point drains, that seems to be along way for it to go. i would try siliconing the area well. ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 4:07pm
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Well, I TRIED to 'silicone' it....I had a tube of 'silicone', but it was 'silicone caulk', and even after waiting around for four hours, it is still like gooey toothpaste...so I'm gonna put tape and visquine all over it just to get the heater emptied before the winterizing (antifreeze). I was hoping there was a magic solution, like "press the blue button and that will divert the water heater dumping into the gray water tank", LOL :)
------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 4:31pm
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a blue button would be nice!!!!!! ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 4:52pm
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If you want, you can just set you valves to winter/storage, and otherwise do your winterization now, and drain the WH when you get time. It is a solid 6 gallons of water, and while it freezing solid will be bad, unless you live pretty far north, it isn't going to stay below freezing, and be far enough below freezing to solidify a insulated 6 gallon container for a bit longer this year.
------------- |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 4:56pm
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I noticed the anode rode hole is about an inch above the bottom of the heater...thusly, there is still about a half-inch of water in the heater. Will THAT AMOUNT of water cause any problems should it freeze up? If so, without some kind of pump, I can't get all the water out...
------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 5:59pm
Never has caused a problem in ours. ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 6:17pm
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Thanks again...we're ALMOST ready to relax, LOL...
------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 7:04pm
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I use a 1/8" tube cut a good angle on one end and siphon the rest of the water out. I don't want to take a chance at - 30* or worse. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 7:34pm
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There have been years where I have only used the low-point drain to remove the water from the WH. No issue with damage from the remaining water. It would solve the seepage issue, too.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: gpod
Date Posted: 03 May 2014 at 5:37am
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While de-winterizing, I was trying to refill the hot water tank and the pump was running, but nothing was happening. I found to the right of the hot water tank some white flexible hoses and a valve. (It seemed to be able to turn on/off a drain hose that had a free end right there in the hot water compartment) I switched this and then the hot water tank could be heard filling and finally my water started coming out of the hot faucets. Does anyone know what this valve is used for? (It is NOT the bypass for the hotwater tank that was used for the winterization process.) ------------- Matt |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 03 May 2014 at 8:39am
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Sounds like the hose used to suck antifreeze into the system. The valve is normally closed and bypassed. With the valve open and the pump on, and the end of that hose in a bottle of antifreeze, the antifreeze will be quickly sucked in and pushed through the entire plumbing system, wherever a tap is open. It sounds like you had the valve open but no antifreeze, so you were pumping air. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 03 May 2014 at 8:40am
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Ah yes, the mystery hose. That hose is used during winterization. It is connected to the input of the pump and allows the pump to suck antifreeze into the water system. If the hose is left hanging and the valve is switched to it the pump will suck air. Hence your experience. Before de-winterization the valve should be switched back to the fresh water tank and the bypass valves reset to normal operation. If you have a few days search this forum for winterization and enjoy your read.
------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: Boomertype
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2014 at 3:09pm
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New 178, 2015. At delivery, the bypass valves were in the winter mode. Everything switched to proper, gas and electric heating work. However, the gas mode kicks off whenever another gas item is used, turn the stove and the furnace quits. Turned off the propane, bled the lines and turn it on and light the stove, turn off the stove and once that reset the furnace but now it's not working. Any thoughts? Bad regulator? |
Posted By: Hairy Podders
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2014 at 6:32pm
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sounds like a bad regulator. ------------- Darryl, Julie & Lindsey Cooper & Libby- Devoted Canines 2014 RP178 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon |
Posted By: MNMarie
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2014 at 10:00am
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We are getting ready to set out this morning for our first camping trip with our new 176t. Thanks to this post, we will have hot water. Bill and I are grateful for everyone's taking time to contribute.
------------- Bill & Marie 2014 RPod 176t TV: 2012 Acura MDX |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2014 at 12:00am
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Welcome. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: David D
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 12:56pm
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Yesterday, I called the folks over at suburbanmfg.com asking about the socket size necessary to remove the anode. Turns out it requires a 1 1/16" socket. But, they also emailed me the manual for my model heater. For those gathering their own collection of manuals, see attachments. uploads/3887/204670XP_SW4-6DDEDMDEM_01-06-2013_REV_NEW.pdf - uploads/3887/204670XP_SW4-6DDEDMDEM_01-06-2013_REV_NEW.pdf uploads/3887/204670_SW4-6D6DEDMDEM_REV_E_03-17-2015.pdf - uploads/3887/204670_SW4-6D6DEDMDEM_REV_E_03-17-2015.pdf ------------- 2015 R-Pod 179 |
Posted By: mamcaloon
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2017 at 3:30pm
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Thank you so much for posting this information! We are on our "virgin camper" trip and our hot water never got hot, only lukewarm. I checked the valves and the hot and cold valves were correct but the connecting line valve was wrong. I turned it and we now have hot water! ------------- M&M 2016 183G 2015 Toyota Sienna XLE |
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2017 at 7:46pm
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That is the beauty of this forum, podders assisting others. Much to learn on this site, and a lot of experienced campers more than willing to share their expertise with those of us who are still on the learning curve.
------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: voisj
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2017 at 11:48pm
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mamcaloon, Welcome! Glad to see you searched and found this post, it's a good one. Better than starting a new topic and starting it over, this original post is 7 years old and nailed it! I never would have seen it otherwise. rgds John ------------- http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9426&title=slopod-180-mods-johnsue - SLOPODMODS John&Sue,SLO,CA 2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost 
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Posted By: MikeP
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 9:42pm
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Hey folks. This thread is awesome as is, and apologies for extending. Getting ready to take my 179 on it's maiden voyage to Ribberfest this weekend. Very pumped, even though we'll see rain all weekend. I felt pretty good about what I need to do to get the hot water flowing....UNTIL I read the owners manua, loll. Could someone please clarify one point for me? "Tech" mentioned the hot and cold water line valves should be set parallel (open) and the bypass valve should be "closed". This makes sense to me, but the owners manual states "prior to first use, be sure the bypass valve, if installed, is set to "open" to allow water flow into the tank", which also sort of makes sense. Now I'm confused. Any help appreciated! ------------- MP2112 |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 10:11pm
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The way I have done it since purchasing our RP179 is to have the three valves set so that the top and bottom ones (hot water and cold water valves) set to open (parallel to lines) and the bypass valve (in between the lines) closed. Either with the water pump or with a city water connection, the water heater tank will start to fill, but there will be air in the tank that will need to be vented. That can be done either by opening a hot water faucet or by opening the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank on the outside behind the cover. Don't turn on the water heater until it is full. This mainly applies to the electric water heater because the element can burn out in a matter of seconds if there is no water in there. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2018 at 7:36am
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"open" is "parallel".. The "owners manual" is a generic thing. On some rigs, (no Pods that I know of) there is in fact, only one valve, a few pods have shown up with a 2 valve system, but by and large, Pods have a 3 valve system. Tech's notes are for that system. ------------- |
Posted By: MikeP
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2018 at 9:56pm
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good deal. thanks a lot
------------- MP2112 |
Posted By: alwayssmilingtoo
Date Posted: 11 May 2020 at 7:01pm
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Once we brought our RPOD 180 home from winter storage, it was home 3 days and then water started coming out from underneath the water heater. Does this mean that the water heater is puched? Can if burst by sitting there after 3 days, could it be something else? ------------- Lina Scott |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 11 May 2020 at 7:52pm
Did you maybe forget to empty it for winter storage? If it had water in it during freezing weather, you may have a cracked/burst tank. Just guessing without more information. ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 12 May 2020 at 6:07am
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Two questions: If the water heater was drained for winterization by removing the anode rod (only way to be sure to get all the water out) then was it fully tightened back in the tank afterward or left loose? I would check that spot first as many folks leave the anode rod loose over the winter so any residual water can drain out. The anode rod is the thing that looks like a bolt head at the bottom center of the end of the tank you see when you open the outside cover. Second, have you confirmed that the water is actually coming from the water heater? There is of course plumbing in that area as well so you should hunt for the actual leak source before doing anything else. You might have to pressurize the system and refill the tank again to find the leak. Once you do, drain everything again like you are winterizing so everything can dry out. If you've confirmed its the water heater, not the plumbing and not the anode rod hole but the tank itself, then you are unfortunately going to need a replacement tank. They cost around USD 300-400 but aren't that difficult to replace. Good luck!
------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |