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Topic Closed178 Water Heater Access

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techntrek View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 178 Water Heater Access
    Posted: 04 Nov 2014 at 8:50pm
dsmiths - I remove the small batteries, too, and make sure the big battery is disconnected.  I'll add that to the list, thanks for the reminder.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2014 at 11:32pm
I did the air method, bought a $5 adaptor for the city water connection and pressurized it to 25psi using my air tank regulator then opened each faucet and the toilet separately to clear them. I did drain the water heater and bypass ahead of that process. I then used the suction hose FR left for winterizing and added the antifreeze as instructed by a camper dealer and it took about a gallon.

One thing the instructions called for was "opening the lowest point drains" but I couldn't find anything that I could identify as the low,point drains, unless they are talking about the freshwater tank drain. 

Can anyone help me with that? I'm in southern WI and want to make sure I get everything that could freeze and break drained.
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2014 at 3:01am
The low point drains, one for hot and one for cold, are usually almost behind the street-side wheel, directly under the kitchen sink/water pump area.  You should drain then before putting the antifreeze in.  If you didn't you will probably be okay.  Some people never open the low point drains. They are like little appendices on the water system.  Little dead ends.  If you don't open them they will have water in them, but antifreeze will mix in and they are okay.  In addition, they are made out of PEX, and probably won't break anyway.

If you open them now most of your antifreeze will run out on the ground.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2014 at 7:18am
The low points are often covered in spray/expanding foam from the factory.. look for a weird bulge of foam in the area Tars pointed out, there SHOULD be a sticker on the side of the pod or slide right there in the area.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2014 at 7:16pm
Yup, just open them up when you find them and the little bit of water left will run out and you'll be ok.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2014 at 11:06pm
Thanks for the help. I'll look for them in the morning and take care of it before we hit 29 degrees for a high next week. We'll be skiing soon!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2014 at 11:40am
Oh, and you may want to open the sink valves first to be sure there is no residual pressure in the lines.  The water system in my Salem is so well sealed it will literally hold full pressure for weeks... and you don't want to be sprayed by that sticky pink stuff.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2014 at 10:49pm
Found them and drained the last of it this morning. Opened the valves on the sink to get all the water/antifreeze out. Ready for winter except for needing more space in the machine shed.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2014 at 2:46pm
Open the outside hot water panel. I drain the hw tank by unscrewing the large plug in lower center. Doing that will also let you check the condition of the sacrificial anode. They may only last two seasons.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2014 at 9:18am
Originally posted by RescapePod

How did your toilet freeze with antifreeze io it?

Anitfreeze is a bit of a misnamer. It will freeze just at a lot lower temp than water. Also when it freezes it does not expand so no burst pipes. 
Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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