178 Water Heater Access
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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5496
Printed Date: 03 May 2024 at 10:15pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 178 Water Heater Access
Posted By: Robert Lunsford
Subject: 178 Water Heater Access
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 10:48am
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Anyone know how to get to the water heater bypass valve on a 2014 178 and what's it look like? NO access under mattress, or from outside panel. Forrest River, you owe me a decent product manual for my R Pod, the one with it is worthless, looks like you got it from Wikipedia.
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Replies:
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 10:51am
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You have to pull the plywood up from the bed deck. ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: Robert Lunsford
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 11:17am
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Well, that's certainly an efficient place to put it! lol If i'm just draining the water heater, and blowing out the lines, is there any real reason bypass it at all in your opinion? I'm seeing both view points, some say they just blow out the lines, pour some anti freeze and the traps, and they are done. Others run anti freeze through the lines. Not sure why that's necessary, as it appears bone dry after blowing them out. As a newbie, don't want to take chances! Expecting a hard freeze in Indiana tonight. thanks. |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 11:39am
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I guess its just a matter of preference and comfort level. Living in South Texas we do get the occasional blue northern that puts us into a hard 2 or 3 day freeze. Using the anti freeze through the lines method surely provides a higher measure of protection, however, I am completely comfortable with the blow out and treat the trap method and willing to accept whatever consequences come with that. My service tech at the dealer in Iowa said that is all they ever do for winterize service. I have not seen any formal documentation on why one is better or should be used over the other. It seems the only issue is weather or not you have access to compressed air. ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: Robert Lunsford
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 11:43am
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I used to have compressed air access, but I got divorced in '88, and never remarried. Thanks for the help!
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Posted By: Luv2Q
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 12:25pm
Dang, I'm going to remember this one! "Compressed air" sounds so much better than Gas Bag. Sorry .. Couldn't help m'self.  ------------- John & Teri Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180 E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3 |
Posted By: kandk920
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 12:40pm
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I have cut the plywood so I just need to lift up the section over the water heater. Took me 10 min to winterize using less than 2 gal of pink stuff given our winters here in WI go below freezing and stay there. I don't want to take any chance of any water being left in the system. After watching the attached video on blowing out the lines, I'm not assured they are clear enough to be protected. http://youtu.be/anVeFfQdYkw
------------- 2015 R-Pod 178 2008 Town & Country Fox Valley, WI |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 2:25pm
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Just using compressed air won't get it all out of the low spots, including in the valve seats. It takes an extra 10 minutes and only a gallon of the pink stuff so you'll sleep better by just doing it. Full instructions in the link in my signature. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Jdub
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2014 at 10:51pm
| Blow it out, fill the low spots with antifreeze, and don't forget the flush the toilet with the antifreeze until all the pressure is out of the system. I froze my toilet full of antifreeze last year...that was a drag. Of course I blamed my frozen tolet on Obama. |
Posted By: Robert Lunsford
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2014 at 7:39am
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Obama's been freezing my toilets, too! THAT explains the backup! Writing my Senator today.
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Posted By: PodBelly67
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2014 at 6:20pm
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Winterized the other day using instructions here. Went great but in thinking about the process, didn't have a 1-16 socket to pull water heater element so skipped that. Should that have been pulled to ensure there is no water in the tank? Since I by-passed it to winterize could I have left water in there??
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Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2014 at 6:57pm
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Well I don't think you have to pull the "Element" but you do need to remove the anode rod to drain the tank.
------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: RescapePod
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2014 at 7:06pm
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How did your toilet freeze with antifreeze io it? ------------- 2015 R-Pod 179 2013 Chevy K1500 |
Posted By: Robert Lunsford
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 5:12am
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I wasn't going to tear my bed apart to get to the bypass on my 178, as I understand it's under the bed. So I first drained the tanks, blew out the lines, THEN pulled the anode, and the water heater was still full of water. What I should have done is pulled the anode first, let it drain, put it back in, then blow out the lines, which seemed to work well. I bought a small air compressor at Wal Mart for 55 bucks and a blow out plug. I'm in Indiana, and my thought is, I'm going back and forth to the south several times this winter, and wanted an easy way to winterize, before hitting the freeze zone. I think I can do the whole thing in 15 minutes now. I'll write back, if all my lines are frozen and leaking, as we had a hard freeze Friday. |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 6:30am
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Here is a link that somebody else posted on another thread that shows the step by step winterize blow-out method. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anVeFfQdYkw&feature=youtu.be - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anVeFfQdYkw&feature=youtu.be
------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 8:58am
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I mention in the winterization instructions in the pod "manual", although it isn't crystal clear, that removing the anode rode isn't always necessary. If you open the low point drains and the sink valves (and the overpressure valve on the WH if you want extra air flow), the tank will drain w/o removing the anode rod. On my popup I only did it every 2-3 years to check the anode rode for its condition. On the pod I didn't do it for 4 years (and the anode rod was still almost brand new). The other years I just used the low-point drains. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Robert Lunsford
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 10:51am
| What are the low point drains and where are they? Thanks. |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 1:46pm
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The low point drains are just that, drains placed at the lowest point in the plumbing system. If you go look at your pod, on the side, near the left wheel well/fender area, you should find a sticker that says.. "low point drains". Look under the trailer there, and you will find 2 black caps.. open them.
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Posted By: dsmiths
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 8:30pm
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I use Techntreks winterized cheat sheet. I printed it out and keep it in the info packet with other instructions on appliances. I live in Indiana also and always switch the bypass valves on the hot water heater. what it does is keeps water from going into the water heater during the winterization process. follow the instructions, its easy, get the pressure off of the hot and cold water systems before draining the hot water heater. pull the sacrificial anode and follow the instructions. I can do a complete winterization in less than 30 minutes. I also pull the batteries from the smoke and Co detectors. I pull the fuse for the Propane detector as it draws a lot of current. get everything out such as bug spray, liquids soap, pop corn. Techntrek has really done a great job making maintenance sheets. ------------- Dane and Donna Smith 2011 RP-172 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4X4 lift kit prodigy wireless brake controller |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2014 at 6:47am
i like the idea of pulling the fuse on the propane detector, or is it actually good to have a little draw? i access my bypass valves through the rear storage compartment, spent a little extra time in there this time............couldn't get out!!!! i did see a block of wood that had come off, wasn't one of the bottom hot water heater braces. i think it had something to do with the small gray box (has wires to it) which was just hanging on the side of the heater. hogone------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2014 at 8:50pm
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dsmiths - I remove the small batteries, too, and make sure the big battery is disconnected. I'll add that to the list, thanks for the reminder. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: NormanHill
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2014 at 11:32pm
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I did the air method, bought a $5 adaptor for the city water connection and pressurized it to 25psi using my air tank regulator then opened each faucet and the toilet separately to clear them. I did drain the water heater and bypass ahead of that process. I then used the suction hose FR left for winterizing and added the antifreeze as instructed by a camper dealer and it took about a gallon. One thing the instructions called for was "opening the lowest point drains" but I couldn't find anything that I could identify as the low,point drains, unless they are talking about the freshwater tank drain. Can anyone help me with that? I'm in southern WI and want to make sure I get everything that could freeze and break drained.
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Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2014 at 3:01am
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The low point drains, one for hot and one for cold, are usually almost behind the street-side wheel, directly under the kitchen sink/water pump area. You should drain then before putting the antifreeze in. If you didn't you will probably be okay. Some people never open the low point drains. They are like little appendices on the water system. Little dead ends. If you don't open them they will have water in them, but antifreeze will mix in and they are okay. In addition, they are made out of PEX, and probably won't break anyway. If you open them now most of your antifreeze will run out on the ground. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2014 at 7:18am
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The low points are often covered in spray/expanding foam from the factory.. look for a weird bulge of foam in the area Tars pointed out, there SHOULD be a sticker on the side of the pod or slide right there in the area. ------------- |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2014 at 7:16pm
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Yup, just open them up when you find them and the little bit of water left will run out and you'll be ok. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: NormanHill
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2014 at 11:06pm
| Thanks for the help. I'll look for them in the morning and take care of it before we hit 29 degrees for a high next week. We'll be skiing soon! |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2014 at 11:40am
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Oh, and you may want to open the sink valves first to be sure there is no residual pressure in the lines. The water system in my Salem is so well sealed it will literally hold full pressure for weeks... and you don't want to be sprayed by that sticky pink stuff. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: NormanHill
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2014 at 10:49pm
| Found them and drained the last of it this morning. Opened the valves on the sink to get all the water/antifreeze out. Ready for winter except for needing more space in the machine shed. |
Posted By: CO_PILOT
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2014 at 2:46pm
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Open the outside hot water panel. I drain the hw tank by unscrewing the large plug in lower center. Doing that will also let you check the condition of the sacrificial anode. They may only last two seasons. ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 -- 2012 Honda Pilot 
Roadwise Wisdom for both Bikers and Froggers alike: http://www.dansher.com/bikequotes.html |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2014 at 9:18am
Anitfreeze is a bit of a misnamer. It will freeze just at a lot lower temp than water. Also when it freezes it does not expand so no burst pipes. ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition 
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Posted By: dsmiths
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2014 at 8:39pm
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Techntrek, I don't unhook my main battery as I have a spot next to my Barn where I have a GFCI outlet where I park for the winter. I cover the pod with a factory cover and leave my shore power plugged up, this leaves the battery/float charger on the battery which keeps it from freezing. The Microwave clock runs and sometimes during mild winter days I can unzip the door and flip the 1500 watt electric heater on and watch some Andy Griffith DVD's and pop some corn, its kind of a poor mans Man Cave. In the Spring during de=winterization I pull the battery, clean the terminals and the inside of the battery box, I take it to the shop and charge and do a load test on it. I did upgrade to a group 27 Interstate from the group 24. So far we have not done any dry camping , but I liked the extra capacity of the group 27 battery. ------------- Dane and Donna Smith 2011 RP-172 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4X4 lift kit prodigy wireless brake controller |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2014 at 9:57am
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No worries about freezing the battery, at 85% SOC it won't freeze until -62 F. Self-discharge slows way down in cold temps so it takes a while to get to that point. That is why I recommend an overnight charge every 30 days except for winter, when you can get away with charging it once in the middle of the season. No issues with leaving it plugged in, either, just check it often until you are sure the converter isn't "boiling" the electrolyte off. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: mmgraham969
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2014 at 6:51pm
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Speaking of "the pink stuff:" when you get ready to start prep'ing your Pod for your first camping trips after the winter, what do you do with the stuff that you drain from your water lines/tanks? I have outside animals and don't want to just spill the stuff on the ground. And, being in a distinctly RURAL area, we have a septic tank rather than a sewer connection.
So, what's the poop on the "pink?" ------------- M&M 2015 RPod 178 TV = 2006 Expedition TV 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 "When I wake up in the morning, and I'm looking at the flowers, and NOT the roots, it's already a good day. ;-)" |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2014 at 7:09pm
the plumbing antifreeze is non toxic but if you did not want to dunp it on the ground you could collect it from the low point drains. You remove most of it by pumping water throung the lines so most of it will end up in tbe waiste tanks. ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2014 at 7:31pm
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Lots of animals and a septic system here, too, but no worries about the pink stuff. Propylene glycol, the active ingredient, is actually used as a cosmetic and food additive. What you have to worry about is ethylene glycol, the stuff in automotive antifreeze. That has a sweet taste so animals will drink it.... and it is deadly. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2014 at 8:09pm
i drink the pink stuff(with a splash of ???) for cocktails!!!! maybe that's whats wrong with me.  hogone------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: mmgraham969
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2014 at 11:17pm
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Folks, thanks for the information. I have some of these winterization items crossed off my list--still have a few items to cross off. Hope I have the most critical ones done, since we've already had freezing temps here in the deep south. ------------- M&M 2015 RPod 178 TV = 2006 Expedition TV 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 "When I wake up in the morning, and I'm looking at the flowers, and NOT the roots, it's already a good day. ;-)" |
Posted By: Luv2Q
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2014 at 12:11am
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So, who's getting the Big Enchilada? Bama or Mizzoo? Surprised Hogone didn't bring this up. Guess he's skeered! ------------- John & Teri Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180 E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3 |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2014 at 7:54am
ok, now you've done it!!!! GO MIZZOU on a personal note, max(my son) will be finishing up his last semester this spring, finally!!!!! ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2014 at 9:25am
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Watch the BADGERS win tonight in the Big 10 championship game!
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 8:37am
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i really thought wisconsin was going to take them down........wow! and mizzou flopped too. maybe they'll play eachother in a bowl, that would be cool. well, at least we have the PACK. hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 10:23am
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A rough day, without a doubt.
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |