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Topic ClosedConnecting a 100 watt solar panel to Zamp port
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sailor323 View Drop Down
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Posts: 281 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Connecting a 100 watt solar panel to Zamp port
    Posted: 28 May 2016 at 1:23pm
Shade and dirt and debris on the panels have a significant effect on the output of the panels.  Even so, if your batteries are fully charged, the panels will produce enough power to keep them topped off.
The permanent mounting option eliminates the (minor) hassle of setting up the panels and taking precautions to prevent theft.  I do have the option of tilting one of the panels in order to maximize insolation but I've never taken the trouble.
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WillThrill View Drop Down
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Posts: 298 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2016 at 12:17pm
Originally posted by sailor323

Shade and dirt and debris on the panels have a significant effect on the output of the panels.  Even so, if your batteries are fully charged, the panels will produce enough power to keep them topped off.
The permanent mounting option eliminates the (minor) hassle of setting up the panels and taking precautions to prevent theft.  I do have the option of tilting one of the panels in order to maximize insolation but I've never taken the trouble.

Yes, anything at all that blocks sunlight from striking the entire panel in a completely unobstructed way will reduce their output.  That's why a lot of people who have solar panels around their houses have a fake owl set up very close to them to keep away birds.  One good dropping can almost eliminate the output of a panel.
"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien

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Rustler View Drop Down
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Posts: 100 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2016 at 3:19am
I know this original post is a few years old. But there have been some recent (2016) replies. So I wanted to add my recent experience.

A bit of background - my home has a 4.6 kilowatt grid-tied solar system. When one of the 25 solar panels was showing reduced output the inverter manufacturer said it's not a problem with the inverter, it must be the solar panel. So the solar panel was replaced on warranty, but the problem remained. The defective inverter was replaced, and I ended up with a spare 185 watt, 36 volt solar panel.

I wanted to make use of this panel to charge a 100 amp-hour deep cycle battery used to power my telescope at remote sites. The same battery is used to power my Ham radio station during power outages. So I got a Morningstar charge controller - SSMPPT-15L maximum power point tracking. I researched how to wire this all up following the national electric code. A good reference for this is the article Photovoltaic Power Systems And the 2005 National Electrical Code: Suggested Practices found on this link:


Here are a couple of photos showing my solar charging setup. First is the 100 amp-hour battery with charge controller and DC rated circuit breakers.



Next is a view of the two batteries with the solar panel attached.



The 72 cells on the panel are wired in series, each producing about 5 amps at 1/2 volt. The volts are additive producing around 36 volts in all. But the current is the same in all of the series wired cells. At the time of the photo the shadow of the power pole is causing the panel to be producing almost no current. If even a single cell is shaded, it will produce very little current, limiting the output of all the rest of the cells in the series. So it's important that a solar panel is not subject to any shade.

While this solar panel didn't cost me anything it has some disadvantages compared to the fold-up solar panels some forum members have used. It is rather large (32 x 62 inches) weighing some 37 lbs. I was unable to get it to fit onto the queen bed area of the Rpod 171. I just couldn't maneuver it into that space - walls and ceiling got in the way. But it does fit on the dinette area bed. So I'll use that space for transport of the panel. It will be set up on the south side of the Rpod, connected to the 100 amp-hour battery with charge controller and parallel connected to the Rpod's battery. This will allow me to charge the batteries while using the Fantastic Fan for ventilation during the heat of the day. The fan uses just over 3 amps on high leaving almost 10 amps for battery charging and other loads. I could add another 12-volt fan for increased comfort.

While the solar panel was free, I did spend about $220 for the controller - Morningstar SSMPPT-15L. The design of this controller (maximum power point tracking) produces more total power than the cheaper pulse width modulation controllers. Since Zamp doesn't mention that its controller is max. power point tracking, we can assume that it is not.

I chose not to attach the solar panel using the Zamp plug on the rear of the trailer. I really don't understand why Forest River chose that location for solar plug-in. This is the point most distant from the battery, requiring a lot of wire to reach the battery. It would make more sense in my mind to have that plugin closer to the battery, say on the curb-side front of the Rpod. In any case the existing location gives a convenient place to plug in another 12-volt load like a fan.

I highly recommend using Anderson Powerpole connectors for DC connections. They are vastly superior to the more common cigarette lighter style connections. The latter are best used for low amperage loads - less than 5 amps. Since they have a spring-loaded tip they tend to push themselves out of the plug. In contrast the powerpole design has positive spring pressure which resists being disconnected. In the smallest version they are rated at up to 45 amps. Powerpole connectors are the standard used in emergency Ham radio and in emergency vehicles such as ambulances. One of the best sources for power pole connectors is Powerwerx. Once you get to using powerpoles you'll never go back to other connectors. Even the $40 spent on the crimper is well worth it. The crimped connections are even better than soldering the wires and way faster. Here are the assembly instructions.

Another suggestion is to securely anchor your solar panel to avoid problems with wind. I had an experience demonstrating the need for this. I had set up the panel in my yard with it securely tied to a large concrete block. We had some strong winds that night as happens often on the Oregon coast. The next morning I found the solar panel face down on the lawn with the concrete block laying in front of it at the end of the tie down rope. I'm just glad the concrete block didn't land on the solar panel. Now I use a screw-in-ground tethering point - the kind that is used for tethering a pet or perhaps a goat. The solar panel is tightly roped to that secure point to resist any winds.

Well this what my experience has been in getting a solar charging system for my Rpod. Any comments or suggestions?

 
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2016 at 8:28pm
Nice write-up.  
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Rustler View Drop Down
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Posts: 100 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 12:22am
Thanks. I hope my experience will be of use to other Rpodders.

One addition that I learned from a link supplied by another forum member. Some solar panels have bypass diodes on each cell of a solar panel. If there is shading on one or more cells, the diode will allow passing of an increased amount of current from the non-shaded cells. It's not as good as being without any shade. But it is an improvement. I don't know how many of the newer solar panels have this feature. But I would expect that such an improvement would be clearly advertised if present.

Another note - when testing the solar panel I tried using battery power on the refrigerator. It was already cold from using shore power. When I switched to battery operation for the refer. the battery voltage stayed almost constant. So in full sun the solar panel could keep up with refrigerator use. I doubt it could do as well as with propane or 120 VAC. But it's an option. 
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sailor323 View Drop Down
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Posts: 281 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 10:05am
Originally posted by Rustler


Another note - when testing the solar panel I tried using battery power on the refrigerator. It was already cold from using shore power. When I switched to battery operation for the refer. the battery voltage stayed almost constant. So in full sun the solar panel could keep up with refrigerator use. I doubt it could do as well as with propane or 120 VAC. But it's an option. 


I have kept the fridge on 12v sometimes in order to conserve propane (I have 280 watts worth of solar power).  Beware that the fridge needs 11 amps when running, that's 132 watts.   Depending on ambient temperature, the fridge runs at least one half the time--mine runs about 3/4 of the time.  Consider, though, that the panel only produces 100 watts when conditions are ideal and then only for a short time.  While the battery may deliver a fairly constant voltage under load and while being charged, it is important to remember that the current delivered to the battery/load is more important than voltage when charging the battery.  I would not count on a 100 watt panel to keep up with the needs of the fridge.
Here's an interesting video https://www.altestore.com/video/what-can-i-power-with-a-100w-solar-panel-v69/
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Don Halas View Drop Down
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Posts: 190 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 10:16am
Nice work Rustler.

Great attention to detail through and through.
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Leo B View Drop Down
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Posts: 4508 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 10:33am
Ditto!
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WillThrill View Drop Down
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Posts: 298 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 4:46pm
Originally posted by sailor323

Originally posted by Rustler


Another note - when testing the solar panel I tried using battery power on the refrigerator. It was already cold from using shore power. When I switched to battery operation for the refer. the battery voltage stayed almost constant. So in full sun the solar panel could keep up with refrigerator use. I doubt it could do as well as with propane or 120 VAC. But it's an option. 


I have kept the fridge on 12v sometimes in order to conserve propane (I have 280 watts worth of solar power).  Beware that the fridge needs 11 amps when running, that's 132 watts.   Depending on ambient temperature, the fridge runs at least one half the time--mine runs about 3/4 of the time.  Consider, though, that the panel only produces 100 watts when conditions are ideal and then only for a short time.  While the battery may deliver a fairly constant voltage under load and while being charged, it is important to remember that the current delivered to the battery/load is more important than voltage when charging the battery.  I would not count on a 100 watt panel to keep up with the needs of the fridge.
Here's an interesting video https://www.altestore.com/video/what-can-i-power-with-a-100w-solar-panel-v69/

I completely agree.

Propane is too cheap and effective to not use to keep the refrigerator going.  The payback period for investment necessary to reliably run it exclusively on solar would be far into the future.  At today's prices, I can refill a 20# propane tank locally for around $12.  A single 100 watt solar panel from Renogy is $150 + tax, which is around thirteen tanks of propane.  You'd have to be practically living in your Pod for it to be financially worthwhile to go solar for the fridge.
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Don Halas View Drop Down
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Posts: 190 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:52am
Just curious, but I'm guessing that using an SAE plug you could use the Zamp plug as a DC source.
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