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Topic ClosedRear stabilizers on Rpod 178
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Rear stabilizers on Rpod 178
    Posted: 21 Apr 2014 at 5:41pm
Slightly nose-down is as stable as level, possibly more so.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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cody91 View Drop Down
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Posts: 184 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 3:04pm
I called Forest River and asked if removing the stabilizers (i.e. tack welds, etc.) would affect the warranty.  They said it would.  So for now (at least for the next year) I'm going to try other solutions such as adjusting the pitch, etc.
 
Thanks.
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cody91 View Drop Down
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Posts: 184 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 9:48pm
Originally posted by cody91

I called Forest River and asked if removing the stabilizers (i.e. tack welds, etc.) would affect the warranty.  They said it would.  So for now (at least for the next year) I'm going to try other solutions such as adjusting the pitch, etc.
 
Thanks.

Has anyone had any interaction with Rodney at the Forest River factory?  He's the guy that told me that removing my rear stabilizers would invalidate my warranty.

Funny thing is, I just received an email from another Forest River rep stating that the warranty would still be valid if I removed the stabilizers.

Not sure what to believe but wanted to know if anyone on this Forum has spoken to Rodney on anything in the past.  If so, what was your experience?

Thanks:-)
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Posts: 438 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 1:58am
I'd say removing or modifying the stabilizers could void the warranty on them only or possibly the frame if you did cutting and grinding to get them off.
For them to say it voids the warranty on the entire r-pod is ignorant and they'd lose that case in a second in litigation.  IOW they can't deny warranty on, say, your refrigerator because you moved the jacks.

I pick up my 179 today and I can say with certainty the rear stabilizers on mine will be removed or moved as years of RV'ing and trailer towing tell me  they will get damaged in short order the way FR has them.
I put the same stabilizers on my 20ft enclosed trailer but mounted them several feet from the very rear so they didn't get torn off.  They do the job perfectly there and are much less likely to ever drag and in fact it is pretty much impossible.  
Puzzled why FR didn't do that also...Wink
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Hairy Podders View Drop Down
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Posts: 217 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 4:31am
Somebody clarify this for me: If the rear stabilizers drag & you remove them, what protects the rear corners of the camper from being damaged if the camper drags again? I'd rather drag a piece that can be easily removed, than damage a permanent part of the camper. If it were me, I'd install a set of taller tires. Maybe a set of Hood River 15"wheels & tires.
We'll be doing some boondocking in Colorado this summer, so it will be interesting to see how the stabilizers hold up, but I see them as sacrificial....
Darryl, Julie & Lindsey
Cooper & Libby- Devoted Canines
2014 RP178
2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 8:23am
I agree that they can't invalidate your entire warranty based on a modification to the stabilizers.  This has been held up in court when people have modified their vehicle, or done their own oil changes.
 
One option is metal skids or skid wheels on the corners.  I've considered the later.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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cody91 View Drop Down
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Posts: 184 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 8:55am
Originally posted by Budward

I'd say removing or modifying the stabilizers could void the warranty on them only or possibly the frame if you did cutting and grinding to get them off.
For them to say it voids the warranty on the entire r-pod is ignorant and they'd lose that case in a second in litigation.  IOW they can't deny warranty on, say, your refrigerator because you moved the jacks.

I pick up my 179 today and I can say with certainty the rear stabilizers on mine will be removed or moved as years of RV'ing and trailer towing tell me  they will get damaged in short order the way FR has them.
I put the same stabilizers on my 20ft enclosed trailer but mounted them several feet from the very rear so they didn't get torn off.  They do the job perfectly there and are much less likely to ever drag and in fact it is pretty much impossible.  
Puzzled why FR didn't do that also...Wink
 
Thanks for the response.  To clarify, that's exactly what he said.  Modifying or removing the stabilzers could void the warranty on the frame and he recommended not to do it.  At least not while the warranty is in effect.
 
I'm puzzled why they tack welded the stabilizers if it seems common practice to remove them.
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 12:31pm
I wouldn't say it is a common practice to remove them, if anything people add them if they are missing (like the 2009 and 2010 front stabilizers).
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Budward View Drop Down
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Posts: 438 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 3:44pm
Regarding the jacks protecting the corners of the frame-   well, yes, sort of. 
Consider this though, if they aren't there one gains a few inches of clearance making the corner less likely to drag in the first place.
When I move my jacks I will add some sort of drag protection to the corners to avoid damage for when I do drag the corner. 
On my toy hauler (which I still have BTW) I fabricated brackets (welded on) and added some roughly 4" diameter and 2" wide very heavy duty steel wheels with, IIRC, a 1/2" axle, on the rear corners after one particularly bad "grounding", and it is way higher than the r-pod.
Now that they are there for quite few years I don't think they've ever touched down...but if they hadn't been it would have happened right away!
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Posts: 1002 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 5:25pm
I put on skid plates almost 3 years ago, haven't scraped bottom since.



I used 1/2" aluminum.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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