Rear stabilizers on Rpod 178
Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4607
Printed Date: 03 May 2024 at 7:19pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Rear stabilizers on Rpod 178
Posted By: cody91
Subject: Rear stabilizers on Rpod 178
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2014 at 11:38pm
|
I have an Rpod 178 and I was wondering if anyone has installed removable stabilizers on their Rpod or is aware of any solutions to prevent them from touching the ground when driving up certain slopes? I have trouble backing into my driveway with my rear stabilizers installed because they come in contact with the ground. The stabilizers are not easy to remove. I"m aware of saveajack.com but are there other solutions out there?
|
Replies:
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 2:30am
|
Do you have the axle risers installed? They lift the whole pod about 4" and help a lot with that problem. They are relatively inexpensive and easy. But there are slopes and there are slopes. If it's just your driveway, you might be able to put down a board or two at the junction of the road and your driveway to give the pod a little lift at that critical point. I have heard of removable stabilizers but I don't know where to find them. I'm sure someone else will chime in. If you don't have the risers though, I'd sure look into getting them. They will help everywhere you go. Another thought. The stabilizers are only attached for convenience. You can take them off and stow them until needed. They don't ever need to be bolted or welded on at all, though ease of use and convenience are significant factors for having them attached. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: cody91
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 7:53am
|
Tars, Thanks for the response. I do have the axle risers installed. I have also tried using lock pins to aid in connecting and removing the stabilizers. It hasn't saved much time because the stabilizers are difficult to reconnect because you must align and place a square piece of metal that sits between the stabilizer arms. I like the saveajack solution but it seems I will to do some metal cutting to remove the base of my existing jacks that are welded on to the frame. I don't have the tools to do that so I was wondering if there were other options. I may try laying the boards down as you suggested. Thanks. Cody |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 8:31am
|
I used a Dremel tool and cut off wheel to cut the weld when removing my smashed stabilizer. It took about five minutes. It was more of a tack than a structural weld.
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 10:20am
|
Find a friend with a 41/2 inch grinder takes less than 5 min, or pay a shop to cut them off. The save a jack is a bolt on deal.
Moe ------------- Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150 
Jo and Gary 2010 174 2011 Ford 150 |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 9:25pm
|
I would take them off and not worry about reattaching them. Just hold them in place as you crank them up, once there is pressure they'll stay until you take them down again. Our early model pod did not come with front stabilizers so I've always used jack stands. Makes the pod rock solid. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
|
Posted By: cody91
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 10:02pm
Doug, Thanks for the idea. I'll give that a try. Cody
|
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 10:02pm
|
They do make a quick detach attachment.. http://stores.saveajack.com/ ------------- |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 10:55pm
|
There are other considerations for this, but it ought to raise your rear end if you were to lower the ball on your hitch by an inch or two. Just an idea... TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: cody91
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2014 at 10:07am
Yea. I thought about that but I was concerned it may adversely affect the pitch and thus affect the road handling when I'm driving.
|
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2014 at 5:41pm
|
Slightly nose-down is as stable as level, possibly more so. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: cody91
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 3:04pm
|
I called Forest River and asked if removing the stabilizers (i.e. tack welds, etc.) would affect the warranty. They said it would. So for now (at least for the next year) I'm going to try other solutions such as adjusting the pitch, etc. Thanks.
|
Posted By: cody91
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 9:48pm
Has anyone had any interaction with Rodney at the Forest River factory? He's the guy that told me that removing my rear stabilizers would invalidate my warranty. Funny thing is, I just received an email from another Forest River rep stating that the warranty would still be valid if I removed the stabilizers. Not sure what to believe but wanted to know if anyone on this Forum has spoken to Rodney on anything in the past. If so, what was your experience? Thanks:-) |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 1:58am
|
I'd say removing or modifying the stabilizers could void the warranty on them only or possibly the frame if you did cutting and grinding to get them off. For them to say it voids the warranty on the entire r-pod is ignorant and they'd lose that case in a second in litigation. IOW they can't deny warranty on, say, your refrigerator because you moved the jacks. I pick up my 179 today and I can say with certainty the rear stabilizers on mine will be removed or moved as years of RV'ing and trailer towing tell me they will get damaged in short order the way FR has them. I put the same stabilizers on my 20ft enclosed trailer but mounted them several feet from the very rear so they didn't get torn off. They do the job perfectly there and are much less likely to ever drag and in fact it is pretty much impossible. Puzzled why FR didn't do that also...  |
Posted By: Hairy Podders
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 4:31am
|
Somebody clarify this for me: If the rear stabilizers drag & you remove them, what protects the rear corners of the camper from being damaged if the camper drags again? I'd rather drag a piece that can be easily removed, than damage a permanent part of the camper. If it were me, I'd install a set of taller tires. Maybe a set of Hood River 15"wheels & tires.
We'll be doing some boondocking in Colorado this summer, so it will be interesting to see how the stabilizers hold up, but I see them as sacrificial.... ------------- Darryl, Julie & Lindsey Cooper & Libby- Devoted Canines 2014 RP178 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 8:23am
|
I agree that they can't invalidate your entire warranty based on a modification to the stabilizers. This has been held up in court when people have modified their vehicle, or done their own oil changes.
One option is metal skids or http://www.campingworld.com/search/index.cfm?Ntt=skid+wheels&N=0&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=primary&Nty=1&Ntpc=1 - skid wheels on the corners. I've considered the later. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: cody91
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 8:55am
Thanks for the response. To clarify, that's exactly what he said. Modifying or removing the stabilzers could void the warranty on the frame and he recommended not to do it. At least not while the warranty is in effect. I'm puzzled why they tack welded the stabilizers if it seems common practice to remove them.
|
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 12:31pm
|
I wouldn't say it is a common practice to remove them, if anything people add them if they are missing (like the 2009 and 2010 front stabilizers). ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 3:44pm
|
Regarding the jacks protecting the corners of the frame- well, yes, sort of. Consider this though, if they aren't there one gains a few inches of clearance making the corner less likely to drag in the first place. When I move my jacks I will add some sort of drag protection to the corners to avoid damage for when I do drag the corner. On my toy hauler (which I still have BTW) I fabricated brackets (welded on) and added some roughly 4" diameter and 2" wide very heavy duty steel wheels with, IIRC, a 1/2" axle, on the rear corners after one particularly bad "grounding", and it is way higher than the r-pod. Now that they are there for quite few years I don't think they've ever touched down...but if they hadn't been it would have happened right away! |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 5:25pm
I put on skid plates almost 3 years ago, haven't scraped bottom since.
I used 1/2" aluminum. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2014 at 7:38pm
|
Nice skid plates! I did something similar on a Featherlite enclosed trailer I have, only I used 1/2 poly cutting board material- figured it would slide well if it did touch down and if it got torn off it is cheaply replaced. Like you they've never hit, but one day I'm sure they will. The Featherlite is all aluminum, frame/floor/everything so a touchdown could be quite damaging. |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2014 at 10:34am
|
I have the older style long arm jacks not the new scissor jacks. I tore one of them off a couple of years ago on a steap hill and damaged the fiberglass ont he back of the trailer. The nice thing of these jacks is that they are bolt on not welded. ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition 
|
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2014 at 12:48pm
|
I to have the old style of jacks, but I found that there was quite a bit of movement in the front from side to side, so I turned them like they do the scissor jacks. It makes the pod a lot more stable. I also find the old jacks don't hang down as far when cranked up. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2014 at 8:02pm
|
The scissor jacks bolt on as well. The weld appears to me as a tack to keep them in place while the assembler drills the holes in the frame. It is hardly structural.
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: Hairy Podders
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2014 at 7:14am
|
More than likely the tack weld is liability based. If they were tack welded at the factory, the chance of them falling off & injuring/damaging something/someone is greatly diminished. ------------- Darryl, Julie & Lindsey Cooper & Libby- Devoted Canines 2014 RP178 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon |