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Topic ClosedFirst Trip in Camplite 21RBS

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: First Trip in Camplite 21RBS
    Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 2:11pm
Bhamster:

Some numbers for you, on paved surface with Tacoma and Camplite 21RBS level, including  off-road optional axles and tires:
  1. Height to bottom of frame near tongue - 18.25"
  2. Height to ball mounting surface - 20.25"
  3. Height to top of ball - 23.75"
  4. Distance between wheel centers - 29"
  5. Distance between tires on center line - 3"

Because the Tacoma receiver is so low I installed the hitch shank pointing upward and used the third from lowest hole set. Looks like it would be too high, but it comes out within 1/8 inch of level front to back.


Charlie

Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 5:00pm
Doug,

My reasons for trying the built in 120 volt inverter in my truck are: I have it, no generator or gas can required, quieter than a generator, and it may work better than the jumper cable routine. My thinking on the last item is that it would use the built-in converter in the camper. Therefore it can go to 14+ volts if needed and would monitor the charge condition. The truck inverter is rated at 400 watts so should support about 30 Amps to the battery if it will take it and if nothing else is running. What I don't know is whether the battery will draw the extra current if it is at 1/2 SOC. Normally, particularly on newer mpg conscious cars the alternator will not go much above 13.5 volts when charging. That, along with the fully charged starting battery in parallel may limit the alternator output so the camper battery is not charging well.

Your thoughts?

Charlie
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
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bhamster View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 5:39pm
Thanks for the measurements. That will save me a lot of guessing.

By the way, how's the quality of the spray insulation? Is it the tough kind of foam they spray under cars, or the fluffy stuff that they use in houses?
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 6:32pm
The spray on insulation is closer to the automotive type. It's tough, but very thin. I don't really expect an insulation from it, but I wanted to seal the floor planks from air and dust leakage. I think this accomplishes that. The product is called Lizard Skin and is designed for high temperature protection in auto applications. It protects surfaces and material from engine and exhaust heat, but I doubt it really insulates much.

Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 6:43pm
That's what I thought, thanks for clarifying. We're not expecting much insulation either. I think we'll just be wearing the insulation on our feet if we go somewhere cold Smile
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 9:03pm
You'll get far more amps in via the jumper cables.  Modern TVs control the alternator output via the computer and you can usually force them to a higher voltage by turning on the headlights or engaging tow mode.  400 watts at 120 volts would give you less than 30 amps at 12 volts after losses in the converter's charger.  Amps through the jumper cables are only limited by the resistance of the batteries and cables.  You also may not be able to get the converter to work at all from the 400 watt modified sine wave inverter, the converter has a veryvery high startup surge and it may not like the modified sine wave at all.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 7:44am
Interesting points. I've not yet tried it so I don't know if it works, but I would think the inverter would tolerate high star up currents since it is advertised to run tools, drills, saws. However, if your thought on the converter not liking modified sine wave proves correct I'll have to rethink. I was hoping since it would be more convenient when I don't uncouple the TV. I guess I'll find out. Fortunately I just bought a Sears clamp on DC ammeter to play with Big smile. That and my digVM ought to tell the story.

Charlie

Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 6:22pm
Clamp on DC Amp Meter?  That is new to me.  How does that work?
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 6:44pm
It works slick. You can measure current (Amps) without breaking into the line. Great for battery measurements, etc. This one also serves as a digital voltmeter/ohmmeter. AC and DC.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

Charlie
Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 7:14pm
If you already have a digital multimeter you can purchase a split core current tranformer for about $10 and take the same kind of readings with the help of a calculator. I've used a couple for various projects and they're pretty awesome (especially the non-invasiveness). My house actually has two  clamped on all the time connected to a TED5000.
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