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First Trip in Camplite 21RBS

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Topic: First Trip in Camplite 21RBS
Posted By: CharlieM
Subject: First Trip in Camplite 21RBS
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2014 at 10:01pm

We just returned from our maiden voyage in our new Camplite 21RBS. We stayed locally just in case, but no problems. We spent 3 days each at two Florida Panhandle beach state parks.

The major issue I dealt with before leaving was the cold aluminum floor. Even with the optional spray-on insulation the floor is painful to bare feet if it’s cold outside. The thin coating only seals against air infiltration. The solution I found was to cover all exposed interior aluminum flooring with 7/8” rubber Tatami mats from RubberFlooringInc.com.

http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/interlocking-tile/foam/78-tatami-tile.html - http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/interlocking-tile/foam/78-tatami-tile.html

The fitting work takes time, but the result is dramatic. Bare feet friendly and very comfortable to walk on. I did have to remove the small caps on the bottom of the slide to clear the foam, but they were only decorative.

The optional skylight in the shower was great. Lots of light and added headroom. Although we had hookups available we dry camped the first three nights just to check everything out. The temp got low enough to give the heater and batteries a good workout. The 7 cu.ft. fridge was great. Lots of room for ice cream.

I don’t think the pump intake is low enough in the tank to fully utilize the fresh water tank, but more investigation is required. We did fill up the gray water tank and had to drive to the dump station, but it was easy since I didn’t decouple the TV, connect hoses and cords, or deploy the stabilizers.

Although we didn’t go far the Tacoma with E2 WDH towed fine. More testing to follow.

Overall the Camplite was great for the trip. We had a lot of rain so spent lots of time inside. The new thicker factory mattress provided good sleeping. The dry bath/shower/commode sure beat the alternatives and the foam floor was absolutely worth the effort. All systems worked as expected. The design, engineering, quality, and workmanship are outstanding.

More on other mods I ordered from the factory or installed before the trip in a later post.

Stay tuned and camp on,

Charlie

-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD



Replies:
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2014 at 10:46am
Keep the reports coming.. and enjoy that Florida camping weather. 18F with blowing snow here today.

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Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2014 at 7:07pm
Excellent!  I envy your dry bath, but hope to hear more, too.

-------------
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: bodie55
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2014 at 1:06am
We looked at these trailers. Seemed well made and sleek. A bit more costly than the pod in a model/size we needed. Would be nice when we're two instead of five:)

-------------
Bay Area Crew
2013 178 Beach Pod
F-150 SuperCrew
...sempre in viaggio sul mare...


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2014 at 8:10pm
Charlie- How's the ground clearance of the Camplite compared to your old RPod? Did you get the "off road" package? We're upgrading from a 171 (which had risers) to the Camplite 21BHS, but I'm not sure if the off road package is worth it for the extra 3 inches. Our primary concern is backing up our driveway and getting on ferries, we won't actually be off-roading with it.


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2014 at 12:17pm
Travis,

On the ground clearance, I did order the off-road package because I wanted to maximize the clearance while I was at it. The factory told me the package increases the axle angle from 10 to 22 degrees and puts 14" LT tires on them. Net increase should be about 3". I was upgrading from a 172 with risers and really got tired of asking water to flow up hill at campsites. The POD dump valves were around 7" off the ground. They were even a problem emptying into a 15 gallon Barker tank. I measured the ground clearance to the waste valves on a Camplite on a dealer's lot at 13" and 16.5" to the bottom of the waste tanks themselves. This without the off road package. Unfortunately I can't get to my Camplite right now to make better measurements for you. 

Overall I think the off road package is worthwhile. The ground clearance on the Camplite is so much better than the POD, for tank draining and road obstacles. I don't have a driveway problem, but I no longer worry about
negotiating dips such as at gas stations and parking lots. And the LT tires are better looking and should provide better side slip traction in snow, mud, or wet roads. I may pay a small price on tread life, but trailer tires die of old age before they wear out anyway.

While we're at it, consider my comments on the rubber floor mats. That aluminum floor is
really cold. The only shortcoming I've found so far.

Glad to see interest in the Camplite 21s. Keep us informed,

Charlie



-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2014 at 12:31pm
Thanks for the info. Sounds like it starts pretty high to begin with. I did like the LT tires on the rpod though (we had the HRE), they seemed pretty sturdy compared to standard trailer tires. With the off-road package is it hard to reach the step? I don't mind carrying around an extra step, I'm just curious.

We'll definitely be thinking about solutions for the floor. The XL package comes with carpet mats, but I'm not sure how useful they will be.

Did you pick yours up at the factory or from little campers direct? We're still debating picking it up since it's quite a drive from here. Shipping is pretty darn expensive though...


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2014 at 12:46pm
No real problem with the step. As I remember the second step, into the camper, is greater.

The factory carpets are interesting, but not really the solution. It's only a runner between the foot of the bed and the bath door. The first time you get up on a cold night, put your feet on the floor at the side of the bed, and stand in the bath, you'll know the rug shortcomings.Angry

I picked up the camper at Little Campers Direct, but they offer the options of factory pickup or delivery to your house. All at a cost, of course. They claim to have delivered all over the country. From Washington it might not be much further to the factory. Then you could see the whole operation.

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2014 at 1:01pm
From our place it's actually 5 hours less to go to the factory. I would prefer to go that way, but it would be too long on the road since my kids are too young to do more than 300 miles or so per day. It looks like either delivery or buying from a dealer nearby. The shipping is around $4k, which makes the great price from Little Campers not quite as great anymore.


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2014 at 1:29pm
I understand your situation. I am not a salesman for Little Campers, but I have had a good experience with them. Check and get a price delivered to you. I suspect their quoted price for pickup at their dealership includes some transportation charges. These might offset part of the delivery charges to you.

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2014 at 1:46pm
The little campers price plus $4k for delivery ends up being about the same as a dealer in Idaho (which I could drive to in a day). I'm still trying to decide which route to go.

There's something comforting about being able to look at it at the dealer before cutting the check vs being stuck with whatever is delivered. If something went wrong, the guy who delivers it can't help me at all and I've already given them the money.


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2014 at 2:16pm
So, if your "local" dealer can meet the price I guess I would go that way. You're right about the comfort factor. And you get the dealer's walk-through when you pick it up so he can see any problems you discover. When we picked up our unit, during the walk-through, the awning mechanism failed. A tech had checked it the night before and it worked fine, but a little piece of metal had worked its way loose. They jumped on it, disassembled the roller, and had it fixed in two hours. Could not have done that at the back of a delivery truck.

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2014 at 2:51pm
My thoughts exactly. I'm not expecting anything to go wrong with it, but you never know.


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2014 at 6:20pm
I ended up ordering the 21BHS from Blue Dog RV in Idaho. Their price was a bit less than Little Campers and I'll still get the comfort of checking everything out before paying. I'm gearing up to go get it (still months away), but one of the items I'll need is a new ball mount. I have no idea what the camplite coupler height is. Do you know (or could you easily measure) what your's is? I suspect our trailers will be identical in height since they use the same frame and both have the off road package. I guess I could always just buy one from the dealer, but I'm a "plan ahead" kind of guy. Thanks in advance.


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2014 at 9:11pm
Way to go on ordering the 21BHS. I know you're excited. And you'll be glad you went local.

On the ball height, give me a few days to get my trailer back. It's out of town right now. Should be back this week and I'll measure it for you. I take it you did go for the off road package?? What are you towing with and are you getting a WDH?

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2014 at 10:14pm
So excited that I'm already having dreams about it. I still have lots of time to plan out all the accessories.

Yes, we did go for the off road package (better safe than sorry). Here's the full options list:

XL LIVING PACKAGE
Roof Mounted Low Profile 13.5BTU Penguin A/C
High Powered Fan/Vent
OffRoad Pkg. w/14" All-Terrain Tires
Spray On Insulation Under Floor
2-way (electric and LP) water heater
Exterior Color: Charcoal
Cabinetry Color: Dark Cherry w/Black Trim

Notice the lack of TV or Microwave. We camp to get away from it all, so TV's are not allowed. We also often don't have hookups, so we hate having the microwave taking up space and weight. We bring a small oven that fits in the cabinet when we have a trip where we will need it.

We sold our old Subaru Outback (which towed our 171) and upgraded to a new 2013 Toyota Sequoia. It's got the 5.7L V8, so it probably won't even notice the Camplite behind us. I'm going to do the first trip without a WDH to see how it goes. If it gets bouncy I might add it. I'm hoping it won't be necessary. The Sequoia also has trailer sway control built into the traction control system, which will hopefully help if that ever came up. I've seen mixed opinions online about using WDH with camplites because of the aluminum frames. How about you? How does the Tacoma handle it?

One more question for you while you're out with the tape measure: What's the gap between the two wheels? 

I'm thinking about getting one of these, but they come in two sizes depending on the space between the wheels:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44622-Wheel-Stop-Large/dp/B000BUU5Y0/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1391483598&sr=1-5&keywords=camco+wheel+chock

Thanks again for your help.





Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2014 at 9:44am
Travis,

Great news. Looks like you did it right. When do you expect it?

I understand on the micro and TV. We ordered the micro and found our own 19" TV because we do stay at equipped campsites and the TV's nice when it's been raining all day. However, for off grid sites and quick overnight stops I did go with dual 6 volt batteries and dual 20 gallon propane tanks. This adds significant tongue weight, but it'll come in handy. Also, my off road Tacoma came with t 400 watt inverter that I can use to recharge the batteries. Much better than hauling gas and a generator and quieter too. I don't know if the Sequoia can accommodate that, but you might look at it.

Funny you went with the charcoal exterior. So did we, plus the "black out" package which added black exterior trim. My wife said every other camper was white so she wanted something different. Looks good with the gray Tacoma.

Re the Sequoia: That will be great with the Camplite. I really wanted that engine, but it's not available in the Tacoma so I went with the supercharger on the 4.0L V6. The jury is still out on that. On the WDH, I'm an extreme advocate for them. Some preach mattress replacement; I preach WDH. Big smile  As Doug will say, you may not need one, but you'll want one. I have the E2 6000/600 we used with the Pilot and 172. Really helps with the new rig. Even with the Tacoma there was significant rear end sag and porpoising on the 6 hour initial trip home. Didn't take long for me to hook it up afterwards. I'm wondering how the Sequoia will do without WDH since I believe it is built on a passenger car chassis. Is it a unibody chassis like the Pilot?  As far as WDH on the aluminum frame, I see no issues. Just use the compression clamps, don't over-tighten to the extent of crushing the frame, and don't drill holes. The LL chief engineer concurred when I talked with him. So far, no problems. And I just splurged on an Atwood power tongue jack! What a difference, but I guess I'm getting old and lazy.

I'll measure the wheel spacing for you. I carry four yellow chocks for that job. Easy and fast, but your solution should be fine. Keep us informed on you progress end experience.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2014 at 10:36am
Originally posted by CharlieM

When do you expect it?

Sometime in the end of March, but they said 6-8 weeks.

Originally posted by CharlieM

Also, my off road Tacoma came with t 400 watt inverter that I can use to recharge the batteries. Much better than hauling gas and a generator and quieter too.

The Sequoia has 120V outlets, but I don't think I would use them for that purpose. It would use way too much gas and it has quite a loud growl even when idle.


Originally posted by CharlieM

Funny you went with the charcoal exterior. So did we, plus the "black out" package which added black exterior trim. My wife said every other camper was white so she wanted something different. Looks good with the gray Tacoma.

I agree, yours looks awesome. We didn't go for the "blackout" package just because I couldn't justify paying the extra money. Our Sequoia is the "Magnetic Gray Metallic" which should be very close to the charcoal. I never thought I'd be one of "those people" with the matching rig, but if you're ordering it custom, then why not?

Originally posted by CharlieM

I'm wondering how the Sequoia will do without WDH since I believe it is built on a passenger car chassis. Is it a unibody chassis like the Pilot?

It's actually the fully boxed truck frame from the Tundra. The engine is from the Tundra too. It's basically a 4-door Tundra with a third row seat instead of a bed. The manual says up to 740 lbs on the hitch, but I won't know how it feels with the ~300lbs of camplite on there until I try it.

Originally posted by CharlieM

As far as WDH on the aluminum frame, I see no issues. Just use the compression clamps, don't over-tighten to the extent of crushing the frame, and don't drill holes. The LL chief engineer concurred when I talked with him. So far, no problems.

That's the best reference I've heard so far. So you actually talked to an engineer at LivinLite and he said it would be fine?

Originally posted by CharlieM

  And I just splurged on an Atwood power tongue jack! What a difference, but I guess I'm getting old and lazy.

I just convert my jack so I can use my drill. Then everything is "powered", because I always have my drill with me.

Originally posted by CharlieM

I'll measure the wheel spacing for you. I carry four yellow chocks for that job. Easy and fast, but your solution should be fine.

I normally use chocks, but the whole dual axle thing has made me look for alternatives to buying a bunch of blocks (we often have uneven sites). Here's what I'm planning on using with that lock:

[TUBE]b4JQV15VzBc[/TUBE]

It looks like a really easy approach, but I want to add some additional security to it, since the levelers aren't very tall on the ends.



Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2014 at 2:30pm
Originally posted by bhamster


Sometime in the end of March, but they said 6-8 weeks.

That's about the same lead time they quoted me and they actually beat it.

The Sequoia has 120V outlets, but I don't think I would use them for that purpose. It would use way too much gas and it has quite a loud growl even when idle.

According to my ScanGauge  the Tacoma burns about 0.5 GPH at idle with no A/C. We'll see. It's still a lot quieter than a genny. Of course, you may burn more gas with that huge V8.


That's the best reference I've heard so far. So you actually talked to an engineer at LivinLite and he said it would be fine?

Yes. His name was Gary Peter. I did sense some reluctance to recommend the WDH, but I think it was more because they didn't think it was necessary than that it would damage the trailer.


I just convert my jack so I can use my drill. Then everything is "powered", because I always have my drill with me.

I also carry a battery powered impact wrench for the stabilizers, but the attraction of the power jack was too strong. Again: old and lazy!


I normally use chocks, but the whole dual axle thing has made me look for alternatives to buying a bunch of blocks (we often have uneven sites). Here's what I'm planning on using with that lock:
It looks like a really easy approach, but I want to add some additional security to it, since the levelers aren't very tall on the ends.

Interesting product. Not sure if it really saves time and effort and I didn't like the jolt when driving off. I'll be waiting for your report.



Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2014 at 8:00pm
I recommend the TV-as-charger but only with jumper cables and only for occasional use.  If you'll be spending a week off-grid and don't have a generator, it will work, just not efficiently.  Hook up the jumper cables every other day for an hour.  Not every day.  The battery needs to be fully topped off after a week so if you'll be out more than a week you may need to find an outlet (like in a bathroom) and take a battery charger. 

-------------
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 2:11pm
Bhamster:

Some numbers for you, on paved surface with Tacoma and Camplite 21RBS level, including  off-road optional axles and tires:
  1. Height to bottom of frame near tongue - 18.25"
  2. Height to ball mounting surface - 20.25"
  3. Height to top of ball - 23.75"
  4. Distance between wheel centers - 29"
  5. Distance between tires on center line - 3"

Because the Tacoma receiver is so low I installed the hitch shank pointing upward and used the third from lowest hole set. Looks like it would be too high, but it comes out within 1/8 inch of level front to back.


Charlie



-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 5:00pm
Doug,

My reasons for trying the built in 120 volt inverter in my truck are: I have it, no generator or gas can required, quieter than a generator, and it may work better than the jumper cable routine. My thinking on the last item is that it would use the built-in converter in the camper. Therefore it can go to 14+ volts if needed and would monitor the charge condition. The truck inverter is rated at 400 watts so should support about 30 Amps to the battery if it will take it and if nothing else is running. What I don't know is whether the battery will draw the extra current if it is at 1/2 SOC. Normally, particularly on newer mpg conscious cars the alternator will not go much above 13.5 volts when charging. That, along with the fully charged starting battery in parallel may limit the alternator output so the camper battery is not charging well.

Your thoughts?

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 5:39pm
Thanks for the measurements. That will save me a lot of guessing.

By the way, how's the quality of the spray insulation? Is it the tough kind of foam they spray under cars, or the fluffy stuff that they use in houses?


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 6:32pm
The spray on insulation is closer to the automotive type. It's tough, but very thin. I don't really expect an insulation from it, but I wanted to seal the floor planks from air and dust leakage. I think this accomplishes that. The product is called Lizard Skin and is designed for high temperature protection in auto applications. It protects surfaces and material from engine and exhaust heat, but I doubt it really insulates much.

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 6:43pm
That's what I thought, thanks for clarifying. We're not expecting much insulation either. I think we'll just be wearing the insulation on our feet if we go somewhere cold Smile


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2014 at 9:03pm
You'll get far more amps in via the jumper cables.  Modern TVs control the alternator output via the computer and you can usually force them to a higher voltage by turning on the headlights or engaging tow mode.  400 watts at 120 volts would give you less than 30 amps at 12 volts after losses in the converter's charger.  Amps through the jumper cables are only limited by the resistance of the batteries and cables.  You also may not be able to get the converter to work at all from the 400 watt modified sine wave inverter, the converter has a veryvery high startup surge and it may not like the modified sine wave at all.

-------------
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 7:44am
Interesting points. I've not yet tried it so I don't know if it works, but I would think the inverter would tolerate high star up currents since it is advertised to run tools, drills, saws. However, if your thought on the converter not liking modified sine wave proves correct I'll have to rethink. I was hoping since it would be more convenient when I don't uncouple the TV. I guess I'll find out. Fortunately I just bought a Sears clamp on DC ammeter to play with Big smile. That and my digVM ought to tell the story.

Charlie



-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 6:22pm
Clamp on DC Amp Meter?  That is new to me.  How does that work?

-------------
Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers)
2011 R-Pod 177
2010 Ford F-150


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 6:44pm
It works slick. You can measure current (Amps) without breaking into the line. Great for battery measurements, etc. This one also serves as a digital voltmeter/ohmmeter. AC and DC.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 - http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 7:14pm
If you already have a digital multimeter you can purchase a split core current tranformer for about $10 and take the same kind of readings with the help of a calculator. I've used a couple for various projects and they're pretty awesome (especially the non-invasiveness). My house actually has two  clamped on all the time connected to a TED5000.


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2014 at 9:38pm
Originally posted by bhamster

If you already have a digital multimeter you can purchase a split core current tranformer for about $10 and take the same kind of readings with the help of a calculator. I've used a couple for various projects and they're pretty awesome (especially the non-invasiveness). My house actually has two  clamped on all the time connected to a TED5000.


True, but only for AC. I needed DC capability for the 12V stuff. I've been using AC current transformers for years and Hewlett Packard even made a DC clamp on back in the 60s, but it was an expensive lab instrument. AC clamp on meters have been cheaply available for years because they're easier to make, but now DC clamp on meters are becoming affordable. Beats the hell out of cutting the wire and inserting a shunt. Smile 

Charlie


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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2014 at 3:37am
I am going to have to investigate the physics of this.  An AC clamp on acts like  transformer coil and has current induced by the build up and break down of the current going through the sine wave.  DC can't induce current because it only has the transition turning on then off.  I wonder how the sensing works.  Doug, do you get this?

-------------
Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers)
2011 R-Pod 177
2010 Ford F-150


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2014 at 8:57am
The DC instruments use Hall effect sensors. They can measure both AC and DC and are getting cheaper along with all other semiconductor devices. See these articles for starters:

http://www.powerstream.com/DC-clamp.htm - http://www.powerstream.com/DC-clamp.htm

http://www.electrotechnik.net/2009/09/how-does-dc-clampmeter-work.html - http://www.electrotechnik.net/2009/09/how-does-dc-clampmeter-work.html

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2014 at 10:14am
Thanks!



-------------
Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers)
2011 R-Pod 177
2010 Ford F-150


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2014 at 3:04pm
You can make a cheap DC amp meter using a resistive shunt (a known accurate resistor or length of wire) and a voltmeter.  But you can't beat that Sears clamp-on for price and ease of use.  

-------------
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2014 at 8:22pm
Yep. I thought about using the "calibrated" piece of wire, but with all the Chinese stuff floating around I'm not sure I could count on wire marked 10AWG really being 10AWG. Besides, I needed a new toyLOL. And I needed a digital VM to keep in the camper. The price was reasonable.

Charlie


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 5:54pm
Charlie- I've got another random question for you about the camplite. What's behind the hatch on the slide out? It seems like some have it and others don't. Is it storage, or some kind of service access panel?


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 8:41pm
It is a storage compartment. About 8 inched deep and as wide as the slide. Height is a bit more than the door height. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I'm camped at Fort Pickens National Seashore, FL and it's dark and raining outside. The compartment appears to only be available with the dinette option, not the couch. Good added storage. BTW, I'm detecting a growing case of  Camplite fever there Wink.

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2014 at 10:51am
Awesome, that's what I was hoping. The more storage the better. I'm assuming you got the dinette then (I thought all RBS models had the couch). Do the dinette side benches lift up for storage on the inside also?


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2014 at 11:26am
Both 21s can be ordered with either couch or dinette. The dinette seats do not lift for storage. That space is partially consumed by the wheel covers. There is a small bit of unused and inaccessible space, but it's minimal. It could be accessed, but you would have to cut access holes and add bottom shelving. I  really don't think it's worth the effort; there's lots of storage space already. Also note, there are no drawers in the camper, just lots of shelves. Drawer space, if desired, requires a trip to the store for plastic containers.

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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD



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