which r-pod should I buy? |
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Keith-N-Dar
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 03 Apr 2011 Location: Mayville, WI Online Status: Offline Posts: 1447 |
Topic: which r-pod should I buy? Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 4:58am |
If the bypass valves are in the correct positions yes. I let it run until it stops spitting for a few seconds.
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Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 8:24am |
Either works.. I know it's confusing, but you have two ways to get water into your plumbing.. the city water hook up / or / the fresh water holding tank and pump. After that, the system works the same. In order to fill your HW tank, you turn on a hot faucet until water comes out. one caveat is the WH baypass valves must be set to "use", and not bypass. Then you have two ways to heat the water.. At home you either have a gas water heater or an electric water heater. In the pod, you have a WH that works on both. In general, when camping with hook ups, you use electric, and when boondocking, gas. You can use both at the same time, if available. Also, most people leave the WH full all camping season, only draining for the winter to prevent freeze damage. If you live where it never freezes, (like my parents) you never have to winterize. . |
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SchipperPod
Groupie Joined: 06 Sep 2013 Location: Utah Online Status: Offline Posts: 81 |
Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 9:23am |
Thanks, furpod! Also, if I hook a hose up to the inlet for the black tank flush, do I need the water regulator valve for that? Or can I hook a hose up directly and not worry about excess pressure? Also, to empty the grey water tank since there's no flush, how does it flow out? Is it just gravity?
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Happy tails and trails!
Teri & Jeff Black Plus 4 Schipperkes: Kodi, Jessie, Maggie & Bear 2014 R-Pod 178 2013 Santa Fe Sport Turbo |
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 9:34am |
Both the black and gray tanks flow out by gravity. The BT flush is just to rinse the black tank, helping to dislodge "debris" that maybe didn't just flow out on it's own. The gray water tanks don't have this... "debris" issue.. else they would also be black tanks.
Two things.. don't use your drinking water hose for flushing or rinsing.. Carry an extra regular hose for that. Most times the water hookups at the dump station are not potable water. You don't need a regulator for hooking up to the flush, and in fact if you do use one there, you need to make sure you ONLY use that one for flushing for the same reason. Your instructions tell you to never use the BT flush with the dump valve closed.. Only YOU can make the decision on that. BUT if you do decide to "fill and dump" rinse method, DO NOT let yourself get distracted in ANY way. Having black water spew out the top of your camper is really not a good thing... and it has happened. I have mentioned this before, but here is a hint.. Sunday morning, get up early, and spend a few minutes watching the early birds at the dump station.. you can learn a LOT that way.. see things to do.. and not to do.. |
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 9:40am |
Also.. just a hint.. as you have thses questions, if you can't find an answer with the search function, start a new topic with the question in the title, so threads stay on track, and so people later, can search and find answers..
(this thread is getting really long.. and a lot of it is useful info, but won't be stumbled upon unless the next person has a question about which pod to buy.. rather than how to dump..) |
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SchipperPod
Groupie Joined: 06 Sep 2013 Location: Utah Online Status: Offline Posts: 81 |
Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 9:50am |
Thanks for all the great advice, furpod!! I wasn't sure how best to use this forum for questions; what you say makes perfect sense! My first camping trial run in the pod is tonight and tomorrow night at Utah Lake. I'm a bit nervous - but mostly excited!
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Happy tails and trails!
Teri & Jeff Black Plus 4 Schipperkes: Kodi, Jessie, Maggie & Bear 2014 R-Pod 178 2013 Santa Fe Sport Turbo |
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sammycamper
Senior Member Joined: 23 Oct 2012 Location: Minnesota Online Status: Offline Posts: 111 |
Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 9:34pm |
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2012 rPod 173
2008 Trailblazer 4WD V6 |
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SNO4ME
Senior Member Joined: 28 Sep 2013 Location: NW Wis Online Status: Offline Posts: 122 |
Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 10:39pm |
Either way works, just run the hot water faucet till all the air is bled out. THEN turn on the water heater. |
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Bruce & Donna in the Sno Pod
(and Brewer too) 2011 RP 177 |
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Sleepless
Senior Member Joined: 07 Jun 2013 Location: Titusville, FL Online Status: Offline Posts: 556 |
Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 10:58pm |
I take one other precaution if I am not sure if the bypass valves are in the correct positions. I use the pressure release valve to assure that the hot water tank is full of water and not being bypassed.
Bob |
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2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD)
2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 12 Oct 2013 at 1:20pm |
I recommend against that. Modern code now requires home water systems to have an air bladder (mounted above the water heater) which allows for expansion as the water is heated, since water doesn't compress. There is an air pocket at the top of camper water heaters which serves the same purpose and opening the overpressure valve can remove it.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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