which r-pod should I buy?

Also, check your stabilizers on longer trips, vibrations can cause them to extend during travel causing contact with the ground, you don't want that. I am going to make simple clip pin safetys to keep mine from coming down during travel.

 I use a short level, probably 8 inches long.  I put it on the floor inside the door to get it level side-to-side, then I put it on the tongue while doing the front-to-back leveling.

I do the same as techntrek. I have a cheap short 6inch level I keep in the storage area. I set it on the counter top before unhitching to get it level left to right. I then put it on the floor in the door way after the wheels are chocked and get it level front to back. Donna watches the level as I crank the tongue jack. After all is level then the stabilizers go down, power cable plugged in, hot water heater switched to electric, scan t.v. your good to go.

Originally posted by sammycamper Originally posted by furpod 3) the water heater is DSI, and also 120v electric. So no pilots to light, and in fact when camping with full hookups, no propane needed (for hot water).  We have a 2012 RP-173, and I'm sure our hot water heater is LP only. If it's supposed to work on electricity when hooked up, it doesn't.

No, it is also 120 volts.  Unless the water heater element is burned out, there are 2 basic reasons why it is not working when hooked up.  First, make sure the circuit breaker for the hot water heater is in the "On" position.  Second, make sure the electrical switch on the heater itself is turned on.  Do a forum search and you will find a few posts and photos showing the exact location of the switch on the heater.

I keep the switch on the heater turned on all the time.  If I want it to operate on LP only, I just flip the breaker off.

Bob

Originally posted by sammycamper Thanks, Bob; and thanks to Marwayne for identifying the switch for me by private message.

Glad you found it! It's much better to heat water with their electrons rather than your gas..