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Topic ClosedI need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
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PaddyMorris View Drop Down
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Posts: 27 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
    Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 11:21am
So if you are just using propane, do you turn off the outside water heater switch? Or if you are plugged into an outlet do you just turn on the outside switch and don't use the inside water heater control? Or do you need to turn on the switch on the outside of the trailer to get the heater to work at all?
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 5:15pm
If you are in dry camp (no hookups), you can leave the outside switch off and the inside switch on, for propane-only. 
 
If you have full hookups and plan on taking showers in the 'pod I recommend turning both switches on.  It gives you a faster "recovery time" (re-heat time) so if someone is taking a shower right after you they don't have to wait as long to get in.  The system is designed so the electric element will keep it hot through the day, and when you wash dishes or take a shower the propane will kick on, too.  Saves on propane.
 
Finally, if you only have electric hookups, or only electric and water but no sewer, you can just use the outside switch for electric-only.  No sewer usually means no showers since they will fill your gray tank very quickly, so there is no need to turn on the propane switch.  You'll only need hot water for washing hands and dishes.  You can use large wheeled totes designed to let you dump your tanks and then tow the waste water to a dump station, so if you don't mind this you can do showers in the 'pod with no sewer hookup.  Personally, its a big hassle and extra expense and you have to lug around huge totes, so I just use the campground shower. 
 
You can also go elecric-only if you run out of propane during a trip, just be aware that the electric element has a slower recovery rate than propane so you'll have to wait a bit between showers.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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PaddyMorris View Drop Down
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Posts: 27 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 5:50pm

thanks, Paddy. 
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SchipperPod View Drop Down
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Posts: 81 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2013 at 3:35pm
Hi, Doug!  I'm still a bit confused on the water heater.  I see the exterior cover panel to the water heater (where the electric on/off switch is located like in the picture posted here above - outside the pod), but I don't see the 3 valves anywhere.  Are the valves on the inside of the unit somewhere?  Also, I'm a bit confused on how water flows to and from the water heater.  As I use hot water, is new water drawn into the heater - like my water heater does at home?  If I'm starting out on a dry camping trip, how do I fill both the 30 gal. fresh water tank AND the 6 gal. water heater tank before leaving?  How do I drain water just from the water heater when I return home?  I don't see where the actual 6 gal. tank is - just from looking at what's under the panel outside...
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Teri & Jeff Black
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Posts: 1002 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2013 at 6:26pm
The three valves are inside in front of the WH



When you fill your fresh water tank, you have to turn on the pump to fill HWT Be sure to open the faucet to let the air out of the tank. When draining the hot water tank (no pump) open faucet to relieve pressure then remove anode from tank.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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TrinityTurret View Drop Down
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Posts: 58 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 1:59pm
I THOUGHT I had it all figured out...

Note that after I drained the water heater and put the rod back in, I did the bleach-mixture-fill-the-fr tank- procedure; Couldn't get water thru the hot water tap fixture until I OPENED the middle valve. Now I'm all confused. Please, someone explain what function each of the three valves have in this photo, and I shall be forever grateful :)


There's only one way...
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furpod View Drop Down
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Posts: 6128 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 4:43pm
In the picture you have shown, the two open valves allow water to freely travel through the WH, and the closed one on the bypass, keeps it from "shorting the circuit".

When you reverse the positions of the valves, the water stops, and turns around through the "short" instead of entering the WH.

Why were you sanitizing the system at this time of year? (just curious..)
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TrinityTurret View Drop Down
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Posts: 58 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 5:20pm
Why, when I OPENED the middle valve, did water then flow through and come out my hot water faucet after I had filled my fresh water tank? It didn't seem to come out but 'air bubbles' & wheezing noises when I had that middle valve closed?

Second part of this new question...when I winterize...I take it, then, the valve going IN to the heater, and the one coming OUT (the top and bottom valves) should be CLOSED, to prevent the antifreeze from entering the WH. I assume the middle valve should be 'open' to allow antifreeze to 'go around' the water heater---it really 'bypasses' the VALVES, and not the heater, because the valves are keeping antifreeze from entering the heater, right?
There's only one way...
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furpod View Drop Down
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Posts: 6128 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 5:37pm
Originally posted by TrinityTurret

Why, when I OPENED the middle valve, did water then flow through and come out my hot water faucet after I had filled my fresh water tank? It didn't seem to come out but 'air bubbles' & wheezing noises when I had that middle valve closed?

Because you created a shortened path for the water to follow, so it wasn't trying (as hard) to refill the WH. The blowing and wheezing you were experiencing was 6 gallons of air being pushed out of the empty WH by the incoming water.

Second part of this new question...when I winterize...I take it, then, the valve going IN to the heater, and the one coming OUT (the top and bottom valves) should be CLOSED, to prevent the antifreeze from entering the WH. I assume the middle valve should be 'open' to allow antifreeze to 'go around' the water heater---it really 'bypasses' the VALVES, and not the heater, because the valves are keeping antifreeze from entering the heater, right?

Well, yes.. but you don't bypass the valves.. you are forcing the water to BYPASS the WH. BTW, you CAN winterize, with antifreeze, without bypassing the WH.. It's how it was done "back in the day".. you just needed 10 gallons or more of anti freeze, so you could/would fill the WH..

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TrinityTurret View Drop Down
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Posts: 58 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 5:54pm
Thumbs Up OOHHHHhhhhhhhhhh GOT IT, Mark, Sue, and Maggie!!! Thank you!!!
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