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Topic ClosedI need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001

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barbanjoe View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
    Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 11:11pm
thanks much for the help I'll look next weekend , working doubles all week  Ouch
BarbanJoe
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barbanjoe View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2010 at 11:16pm
I don't think we need to winterize, we moved from central pennsy to arizona 8 years ago and I usually wear shorts on xmas day, LOL LOL
BarbanJoe
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tort and hare View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 12:05am
I'm also learning where everything is on my 175 (2010 model).  After searching for my hot water heater by-pass valves, I located them behind a small access panel in the rear storage area (left side).  4 small screws held it in.  That being found, I could not see or feel them.  I ended up crawling through the right side storage area door to see if they were even in there.  They were, and in the Summer mode (by-pass valve closed).  Possibly could also be accessed by removing mattress and plywood under it, however I didn't check this possibility.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 10:54am
Oh, and in case you didn't know you can use the electric mode and gas mode at the same time, for faster recovery times when you have full hookups.  The gas thermostat trigger point is set slightly higher so the electric element will maintain the temperature most of the time, but when you jump in the shower the gas burner will kick on too.
 
When we have electric but no sewer I'll only turn on the electric mode since we only need hot water for washing hands and dishes.  I don't like dealing with portable totes (like this) so we'll just use the bath house for showers.
 
And of course you can only use the gas mode in dry camp unless you run a generator.  The electric element is one of the 3 things on the 'pod that can only run on 120 and not 12 volts.  Doesn't make much sense to use a genset just for this since gas has a much faster recovery time than electric.  The electric element doesn't add much to recovery when they are both on.  But if you happen to have the genset running for something else and have the spare wattage available, it does help some.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2010 at 12:43pm
I have been unable to get the water heater to work on LP alone and will take it in to a dealer for warranty work but first wanted to see if anyone had suggestions as to what I might try trouble shooting wise before I make the trip to a dealer. Here is what I have and have tried.
2011 model 177
Insured that gas is adequate by testing the stove and using LP on the refrig which both worked.
Tried with the electric switch in the compartment near the gas jet in both the on and off position
vandallc
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2010 at 12:46pm
Sorry apparently hit send before I was finished...
Insured that water was in the tank and the water and tank were both cooled down from heating the water using electric.
When I flip the switch (inside the pod) the ignition attempts three times as expected but no ignition occurs and I see no evidence that gas is coming from the vent.
 
Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
 
Generally still pretty happy with the pod but boy the documentation is poor and disjointed.
 
vandallc
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2010 at 4:56pm
The documentation is almost worthless, yes.  A shot in the dark - on my popup there was a valve where the water heater connected to the gas line.  I don't know if they have one on the 'pod but its worth a look.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2010 at 6:22pm
hmmm. I think I can rule that out because it did actually fire up one time and the dealer says is worked on check out. I guess I am in for a warranty run to the nearest dealer that will service. Thanks.
vandallc
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 10:21am
A word of advice...I don't like to leave water sit in my hot water heater when the Pod is stored between trips.  I found that my domestic water (and a few camp ground water supplies) tends to use up the magnesium anode rod quite quickly if the tank is allowed to sit full.  The used magnesium tends to form a white material in the tank which eventually clogs the sink aerator and stops up the shower nozzle.  I also don't like the idea of drinking the dissolved magnesium.
If I plan on storing the Pod for more than a few days, I open the sink faucet to relieve any existing water pressure...unscrew the anode rod and drain the water heater.  I temporarily replace the
rod with a similar diameter/thread PVC end plug (I don't want vermin to crawl into the heater tank).
WARNING...adjacent to the anode rod port, I used a permanent marking pen to write a warning on the water heater to make certain that I have shut off the 110VAC heater switch.  I plug in the Pod every so often to keep the batteries charged, and it would only take a few seconds for the dry
electric heater rod to burn itself out.  So when I remove the anode rod I see the warning to shut off the electric switch.
I carry a trip checklist and the first item is 'replace the anode rod and fill the heater tank'.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2011 at 8:44am
I found your post while reading about water heaters. Just wanted to say what great advise. Thanks. There is so little good and clear documentation on the water heater. Clark
2010 PR 176 sold 2012 replaced with
2013 SP 240 w outside kitchen
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