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Topic ClosedI need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001

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TrinityTurret View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: I need a course in R-Pod water Heater 1001
    Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 5:20pm
Why, when I OPENED the middle valve, did water then flow through and come out my hot water faucet after I had filled my fresh water tank? It didn't seem to come out but 'air bubbles' & wheezing noises when I had that middle valve closed?

Second part of this new question...when I winterize...I take it, then, the valve going IN to the heater, and the one coming OUT (the top and bottom valves) should be CLOSED, to prevent the antifreeze from entering the WH. I assume the middle valve should be 'open' to allow antifreeze to 'go around' the water heater---it really 'bypasses' the VALVES, and not the heater, because the valves are keeping antifreeze from entering the heater, right?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 4:43pm
In the picture you have shown, the two open valves allow water to freely travel through the WH, and the closed one on the bypass, keeps it from "shorting the circuit".

When you reverse the positions of the valves, the water stops, and turns around through the "short" instead of entering the WH.

Why were you sanitizing the system at this time of year? (just curious..)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 1:59pm
I THOUGHT I had it all figured out...

Note that after I drained the water heater and put the rod back in, I did the bleach-mixture-fill-the-fr tank- procedure; Couldn't get water thru the hot water tap fixture until I OPENED the middle valve. Now I'm all confused. Please, someone explain what function each of the three valves have in this photo, and I shall be forever grateful :)


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2013 at 6:26pm
The three valves are inside in front of the WH



When you fill your fresh water tank, you have to turn on the pump to fill HWT Be sure to open the faucet to let the air out of the tank. When draining the hot water tank (no pump) open faucet to relieve pressure then remove anode from tank.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2013 at 3:35pm
Hi, Doug!  I'm still a bit confused on the water heater.  I see the exterior cover panel to the water heater (where the electric on/off switch is located like in the picture posted here above - outside the pod), but I don't see the 3 valves anywhere.  Are the valves on the inside of the unit somewhere?  Also, I'm a bit confused on how water flows to and from the water heater.  As I use hot water, is new water drawn into the heater - like my water heater does at home?  If I'm starting out on a dry camping trip, how do I fill both the 30 gal. fresh water tank AND the 6 gal. water heater tank before leaving?  How do I drain water just from the water heater when I return home?  I don't see where the actual 6 gal. tank is - just from looking at what's under the panel outside...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 5:50pm

thanks, Paddy. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 5:15pm
If you are in dry camp (no hookups), you can leave the outside switch off and the inside switch on, for propane-only. 
 
If you have full hookups and plan on taking showers in the 'pod I recommend turning both switches on.  It gives you a faster "recovery time" (re-heat time) so if someone is taking a shower right after you they don't have to wait as long to get in.  The system is designed so the electric element will keep it hot through the day, and when you wash dishes or take a shower the propane will kick on, too.  Saves on propane.
 
Finally, if you only have electric hookups, or only electric and water but no sewer, you can just use the outside switch for electric-only.  No sewer usually means no showers since they will fill your gray tank very quickly, so there is no need to turn on the propane switch.  You'll only need hot water for washing hands and dishes.  You can use large wheeled totes designed to let you dump your tanks and then tow the waste water to a dump station, so if you don't mind this you can do showers in the 'pod with no sewer hookup.  Personally, its a big hassle and extra expense and you have to lug around huge totes, so I just use the campground shower. 
 
You can also go elecric-only if you run out of propane during a trip, just be aware that the electric element has a slower recovery rate than propane so you'll have to wait a bit between showers.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 11:21am
So if you are just using propane, do you turn off the outside water heater switch? Or if you are plugged into an outlet do you just turn on the outside switch and don't use the inside water heater control? Or do you need to turn on the switch on the outside of the trailer to get the heater to work at all?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2011 at 8:44am
I found your post while reading about water heaters. Just wanted to say what great advise. Thanks. There is so little good and clear documentation on the water heater. Clark
2010 PR 176 sold 2012 replaced with
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 10:21am
A word of advice...I don't like to leave water sit in my hot water heater when the Pod is stored between trips.  I found that my domestic water (and a few camp ground water supplies) tends to use up the magnesium anode rod quite quickly if the tank is allowed to sit full.  The used magnesium tends to form a white material in the tank which eventually clogs the sink aerator and stops up the shower nozzle.  I also don't like the idea of drinking the dissolved magnesium.
If I plan on storing the Pod for more than a few days, I open the sink faucet to relieve any existing water pressure...unscrew the anode rod and drain the water heater.  I temporarily replace the
rod with a similar diameter/thread PVC end plug (I don't want vermin to crawl into the heater tank).
WARNING...adjacent to the anode rod port, I used a permanent marking pen to write a warning on the water heater to make certain that I have shut off the 110VAC heater switch.  I plug in the Pod every so often to keep the batteries charged, and it would only take a few seconds for the dry
electric heater rod to burn itself out.  So when I remove the anode rod I see the warning to shut off the electric switch.
I carry a trip checklist and the first item is 'replace the anode rod and fill the heater tank'.
TIDALWAVE
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