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Sleepless 
Senior Member 
Joined: 07 Jun 2013 Location: Titusville, FL Online Status: Offline Posts: 556 |
 Topic: which r-pod should I buy?Posted: 12 Oct 2013 at 2:19pm |
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I may be wrong, but in my past RVs the pressure/temperature relief valve was wet and the air pocket was above it, similar to my home system. In my home, the expansion tank is piped in above the water heater and the relief valve is located on top of the water tank itself. My old school method at home is to periodically drain a few gallons from the bottom of the tank to remove sediment and to exercise the relief valve to remove any deposits and to assure that it is operational.
Again, I am old school and could be wrong about the valve but here in Florida, where we do not drain/winterize our RV water systems although sanitation is still required. Please note that I said that I am old school and could be wrong. Bob |
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2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD)
2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp 
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9062 |
Posted: 12 Oct 2013 at 8:59pm |
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I tried to find a diagram showing the outlets/inlets, etc. but instead found this useful guide. See page 19. |
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp 
Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 14 Oct 2013 at 12:11pm |
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In the owners manual for the water heater, they give a procedure for reestablishing the air pocket with the relief valve. They (Suburban) say the procedure should be used if you have a "weepy" valve. And repeated as often as needed...
On the flip side, I was taught by my plumber uncle to exercise the relief valve from time to time, to make sure it moves freely.. So I guess you do one, then the other.. lol. |
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Sleepless
Senior Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2013 Location: Titusville, FL Online Status: Offline Posts: 556 |
Posted: 14 Oct 2013 at 12:24pm |
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My earlier comments were primarily for newbies that may not be experienced in knowing which position the bypass valves should be in when filling their water system. In those cases, the safest and easiest method is to flip the pressure/temperature release valve. What I failed to say is that there should be no pressure in the system, otherwise you will receive a bath when you flip the valve.
This is the same method you use to re-establish the water pocket, which is the space in the tank above the valve. And, as you mentioned, it does exercise the valve. The air pocket will eventually diminish just through use of the hot water system. When we were full-timing, I found this out. If you are not familiar with the position the bypass valves should be in and you fill the system, I don't know of any way you can be certain that the hot water tank is filled. Why risk burning out your electric heating element should there not be water in the tank. |
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2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD)
2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
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ricon
Newbie 
Joined: 18 Oct 2016 Location: Select a State Online Status: Offline Posts: 15 |
Posted: 18 Oct 2016 at 10:40am |
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I have similar problem. I'm in Colorado and dealer here wants 17800 for Hood river Rpod 178. I found a dealer from Ohio He has Rpod 178(non hood river) for 14610. It is 17 hours drive from Denver but 3k less. Is the Hood Fiver Edition worth 2k more(i calculated 1000 for gas my time etc).
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Luv2Q
Senior Member
Joined: 30 Aug 2014 Location: Central TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 309 |
Posted: 18 Oct 2016 at 1:47pm |
We're in Central TX (16.5 hours from Couch's in Ohio) .. It was worth it to us to save the 3K. We spent the first night on their lot (they generously provided water & elec) which allowed us to find a couple of problems which they fixed the next morning. Plus, it made a nice familiarization trip on the way home. As to the Hood River Edition: Unless things have changed, the HRE gives you a front rock guard (they all have them), risers (you can get 'em from FR for ~$155), and knobby tires (you maybe can use 'em or maybe not). So, getting a non-HRE isn't much of a big deal (IMHO). You can easily add the risers (or have someone else install them for 150-200). And you'll likely want to upgrade tires before many miles are on them; I'll go with a Load Range 'D' when I replace those on our 180. You can put the mud-grips on then if you want the HRE 'look'. Just my two pesos' worth. Hope it helps.
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John & Teri
Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180 E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3 |
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ricon
Newbie
Joined: 18 Oct 2016 Location: Select a State Online Status: Offline Posts: 15 |
Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 10:37am |
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So you are saying your has front rock guard too? That's the only reason I wanted HRE rpod. If all of them have front rock guard then you made my decision easy. I can get tires for it for $300 and riser for 200.
How you like your 180? I was going to get 178 but 180 looks good too Thanks for your advice. |
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Bama Pod
Groupie 
Joined: 04 Oct 2016 Location: Huntsville AL Online Status: Offline Posts: 89 |
Posted: 20 Oct 2016 at 3:19pm |
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The video on the Couch site for the new 2017.5 180 claims that new Pods come with a different setting on the axle which raises the camper up higher. There is no longer an option for an axle riser, it's now a standard feature.
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Bama Pod
Huntsville, AL 2017 Ford F250 2017 Airstream 26U |
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which r-pod should I buy?