winterizing

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   It is just about impossible to get all of the water out of the fresh water tank, so what you put it will be diluted somewhat.  You will also need several gallons depending on the exact tilt of the camper before it will start getting sucked into the intake.  I usually used less than a gallon by using the antifreeze intake at the water pump.

You must drain the WH and turn the bypass valves to the correct position.

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techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9062	Topic: winterizing Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 3:36pm
	It is just about impossible to get all of the water out of the fresh water tank, so what you put it will be diluted somewhat. You will also need several gallons depending on the exact tilt of the camper before it will start getting sucked into the intake. I usually used less than a gallon by using the antifreeze intake at the water pump. You must drain the WH and turn the bypass valves to the correct position.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

Don Halas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 01 Jul 2015 Location: Connecticut Online Status: Offline Posts: 190	Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 3:25pm
	Well I could just drain residual antifreeze in the tank after the lines have all been treated. I'll flush the tank and lines in the spring anyway, and the stuff only costs like $3.00 a gallon.

Tars Tarkas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 14 Jan 2013 Location: Near Nashville Online Status: Offline Posts: 1454	Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 3:08pm
	Putting antifreeze in the tank is unnecessary since you can simply drain it. You want antifreeze just in the pipes, pump, & valves and traps. Very little antifreeze to flush to go back to drinking watsr. It would take much more antifreeze if you put it in the tank, and even though it's nontoxic, who wants to taste the stuff for months? TT
	2010 176 FJ Cruiser

Don Halas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 01 Jul 2015 Location: Connecticut Online Status: Offline Posts: 190	Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 1:27pm
	Why can't I just add the antifreeze to the fresh water tank, start the pump and draw it through hot and cold faucets and the toilet? I do expect to use a compressor to blow the lines out first, but I don't understand the extra effort at the hot water tank or the need to have a tube to get the antifreeze in the pipes. This is my first experience winterizing a trailer, but I've been doing it for over twenty years in an inground pool without issue.

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9062	Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 11:06am
	The winterization checklist has been revised at the suggestion of Q7-retired. A few steps have been reversed to ensure the WH doesn't have pressure in it when you remove the anode rod. It now mentions that some models didn't come with that short hose, and some require you to remove the water intake line. That wasn't true when the list was originally created.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

pnwcamper Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 22 Sep 2015 Location: Oregon Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 10:57am
	Thanks techntrek, I have read many of your posts and appreciate your opinion. Sound like I may want to be "better safe than sorry" and use the antifreeze method. I pulled the cover off my bed and found the water pump and figured out what the extra hose was that was in my storage compartment. See image. I assume I would unscrew the (in line) from my on-board water tank (see photo) and replace it with the short hose which I would put into my gallon of antifreeze. Then go through your winterizing suggestions. uploads/4646/hose.JPG uploads/4646/Water-pump1.jpg I also found this video that does suggest the air compressor method is an option but I think I'll subcribe to "Better safe then sorry". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anVeFfQdYkw Thanks

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9062	Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 6:56pm
	My usual answer to this often-asked question: you will never get the water out of the valve seats or the low spots in the PEX. The later isn't a huge problem since the PEX will expand some and there is room to expand in 2 directions, but the valves will freeze and crack. You may get lucky for a year or two but eventually it will happen. You can skip the air if you want (you'll use more antifreeze), but don't skip the antifreeze.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

pnwcamper Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 22 Sep 2015 Location: Oregon Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 12:15pm
	Thanks Outbound! I guess I am wondering if there is anyone here that uses the air method with success. From my experience (a little) water that freezes, as long as it is only a little bit, will not damage anything. (Little bit being a relative term). Water expands when frozen but if there is room to expand it will not damage anything. Thanks

Outbound Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 19 Nov 2009 Location: Oshawa, Ontario Online Status: Offline Posts: 767	Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 11:57am
	> do you think using the compressed air method (done properly) and not adding anti freezing (other than the drains) is sufficient for winterizing the system? I've tried blowing out my lines several times over the years; there always seems to be a little bit of water left in there sputtering around no matter what I do. In the end, I just pump in the pink stuff.
	Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150

pnwcamper Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 22 Sep 2015 Location: Oregon Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 10:52am
	I will be winterizing my R-pod for the first time when the weather gets cold enough that the pipes may freeze. I live at low elevation in the PNW (Oregon) so most of the time freezing temps will be temporary. When it is not freezing my plan is to go out on trips at least once a month. That being said I could be winterizing the pod several times through the winter when the temperature warrant. Seems for my situation using the compressed air method to winterize is my best option as I will be putting water back in the system when it is above freezing several time throughout the winter. My question is, do you think using the compressed air method (done properly) and not adding anti freezing (other than the drains) is sufficient for winterizing the system? Does anyone else use this method? pnwcamper