winterizing
Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7104
Printed Date: 20 Jun 2025 at 6:45pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: winterizing
Posted By: jmwv
Subject: winterizing
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 12:39pm
| I am winterizing the pod today. 2016 178. The low water drain I cannot get to come off, and there is no extra tubing to place in antifreeze. Any help will be appreciated. |
Replies:
Posted By: Mountainrev
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 2:33pm
|
Have you ever drained the tank before? If it's new and the drain cap has not been removed yet, I found with mine that Forest River uses a very liberal amount of expanding foam to seal it in, which got onto the cap itself. It was a bit difficult the first time, but not bad after that. Use a pair of pliers or vice grips if necessary (but be careful not to crush it, of course!). Don't forget that there are two drains--one for the fresh water tank, and one under the sink in the kitchen. You say there is no "extra tubing" for the antifreeze. Did you access the tubes near the water pump? There should be a length of tubing (about 14" long or so) with a valve that you place inside a gallon of the pink antifreeze. Open the valve and then run the faucets and flush the toilet until pink comes through. I have read that Forest River did not put this winterizing tube/valve on some older models, for some reason. I see that you have a 2016, but I guess it's possible that you don't have one. In that case, I guess you'd just have to disconnect the hose that leads from the fresh water tank to the pump, and place the end into your antifreeze container. Hope that answers your questions. ------------- 2014 177 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Turbodiesel "I lift my eyes to the hills." 
|
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 8:07pm
|
Mountainrev: It sounds like you are confusing the low water drains with the fresh water tank drain. The tank does need to be drained, but that isn't the low water drain. In fact, there are two low water drains, one for the hot water and one for the cold. They are usually right behind the axle on the street side of the pod. There should be a decal indicating their location. The cap on the water tank drains the tank. The low water drains let (almost) all of the water out of the plumbing pipes. The "almost" is the reason to use antifreeze. The water tank needs to be drained for the winter, but, at least arguably (someone on the forum says he never opens the low water drains) the low water drains need be opened too. Your advice about how to get the caps off is good. There is more to winterizing than I'm getting into here, but as far as the low water drains are concerned, take the caps off, open the faucets in the kitchen and bath, and flush the toilet so that the plumbing isn't vacuum locked and all the water will drain. Drain the water heater too. Some people like to blow out the lines with low pressure air in the city water intake. Put the caps back on low the water drains, then do the antifreeze thing. I agree with you on that too. Why FR would skip the antifreeze tube on some models is a mystery to me, but apparently they did. On my 176 the antifreeze intake is directly under the sink. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 10:49pm
|
I have never removed the low water drains, but I blow out the lines very thoroughly and use antifreeze. I don't necessarily recommend not removing the drains, but the first year my dealer winterized this for me and didn't remove the drains either. They are still buried in the foam.
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: pnwcamper
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 10:52am
|
I will be winterizing my R-pod for the first time when the weather gets cold enough that the pipes may freeze. I live at low elevation in the PNW (Oregon) so most of the time freezing temps will be temporary. When it is not freezing my plan is to go out on trips at least once a month. That being said I could be winterizing the pod several times through the winter when the temperature warrant. Seems for my situation using the compressed air method to winterize is my best option as I will be putting water back in the system when it is above freezing several time throughout the winter. My question is, do you think using the compressed air method (done properly) and not adding anti freezing (other than the drains) is sufficient for winterizing the system? Does anyone else use this method? pnwcamper |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 11:57am
|
> do you think using the compressed air method (done properly) and not adding anti freezing (other than the drains) is sufficient for winterizing the system? I've tried blowing out my lines several times over the years; there always seems to be a little bit of water left in there sputtering around no matter what I do. In the end, I just pump in the pink stuff. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: pnwcamper
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 12:15pm
|
Thanks Outbound! I guess I am wondering if there is anyone here that uses the air method with success. From my experience (a little) water that freezes, as long as it is only a little bit, will not damage anything. (Little bit being a relative term). Water expands when frozen but if there is room to expand it will not damage anything. Thanks |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 6:56pm
|
My usual answer to this often-asked question: you will never get the water out of the valve seats or the low spots in the PEX. The later isn't a huge problem since the PEX will expand some and there is room to expand in 2 directions, but the valves will freeze and crack. You may get lucky for a year or two but eventually it will happen. You can skip the air if you want (you'll use more antifreeze), but don't skip the antifreeze. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
|
Posted By: pnwcamper
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 10:57am
|
Thanks techntrek, I have read many of your posts and appreciate your
opinion. Sound like I may want to be "better safe than sorry" and use
the antifreeze method. I pulled the cover off my bed and found the water pump and figured out what the extra hose was that was in my storage compartment. See image. I assume I would unscrew the (in line) from my on-board water tank (see photo) and replace it with the short hose which I would put into my gallon of antifreeze. Then go through your winterizing suggestions. uploads/4646/hose.JPG - uploads/4646/hose.JPG uploads/4646/Water-pump1.jpg - uploads/4646/Water-pump1.jpg I also found this video that does suggest the air compressor method is an option but I think I'll subcribe to "Better safe then sorry". http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anVeFfQdYkw - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anVeFfQdYkw Thanks |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 11:06am
|
The winterization checklist has been revised at the suggestion of Q7-retired. A few steps have been reversed to ensure the WH doesn't have pressure in it when you remove the anode rod.
It now mentions that some models didn't come with that short hose, and some require you to remove the water intake line. That wasn't true when the list was originally created. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: Don Halas
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 1:27pm
|
Why can't I just add the antifreeze to the fresh water tank, start the pump and draw it through hot and cold faucets and the toilet? I do expect to use a compressor to blow the lines out first, but I don't understand the extra effort at the hot water tank or the need to have a tube to get the antifreeze in the pipes. This is my first experience winterizing a trailer, but I've been doing it for over twenty years in an inground pool without issue. |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 3:08pm
|
Putting antifreeze in the tank is unnecessary since you can simply drain it. You want antifreeze just in the pipes, pump, & valves and traps. Very little antifreeze to flush to go back to drinking watsr. It would take much more antifreeze if you put it in the tank, and even though it's nontoxic, who wants to taste the stuff for months?
TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: Don Halas
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 3:25pm
|
Well I could just drain residual antifreeze in the tank after the lines have all been treated. I'll flush the tank and lines in the spring anyway, and the stuff only costs like $3.00 a gallon. |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 3:36pm
|
It is just about impossible to get all of the water out of the fresh water tank, so what you put it will be diluted somewhat. You will also need several gallons depending on the exact tilt of the camper before it will start getting sucked into the intake. I usually used less than a gallon by using the antifreeze intake at the water pump.
You must drain the WH and turn the bypass valves to the correct position. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: Grandpa Hiker
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 5:43pm
|
Where do I find the Winterization checklist? ------------- Rob & Becky 2014 Ford Explorer 3.5 SOHC V6 2015 R-179 Pod aka Piddle Pod "Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass, it is about learning to dance in the rain!!" |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2015 at 8:31am
|
See the link in my signature. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: ShariB
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 6:18pm
|
Hi
Can anyone tell me where the hot water by pass valve is in the Rpod 179? Thanks |
Posted By: Commander203
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 6:24pm
|
The bypass is under the bed right near the furnace and hot water heater.. Unfortunate mine is near the front wall of the POD. I had to take the complete plywood base for the bed out. In the future I'll definitely find an easier way to get to it.
Welcome!! ------------- Mike & Erin 2013 Tundra 4.6L V8 (Tow PK) 2006 Honda Goldwing GL 1800 2005 Honda VTX 1800N |
Posted By: Grandpa Hiker
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 6:28pm
|
Actually there are 3 valves that must be turned to bypass the water heater. They are located under the bed. If you are facing the front of the Pod they will be on the left side. In the storage area under the bed there is an access panel next to the furnace grille. You will have to lay on your belly but once the panel is removed the valves and intake hose for the antifreeze will be just behind the panel. One of my mods was to put piano hinges on the plywood that supports the mattress so now I can just lift the bed to have easy access to the water pump, water heater, bypass valves, etc. ------------- Rob & Becky 2014 Ford Explorer 3.5 SOHC V6 2015 R-179 Pod aka Piddle Pod "Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass, it is about learning to dance in the rain!!" |
Posted By: beachmaster
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 6:32pm
| our 179 has the same location but i can get to it by unscrewing and lifting the plywood under the mattress.decided to leave it unscrewed, that way if locked out i could worm my way in through the outside storage hatch and up through the bed.wouldn't be fun but would be doable |
Posted By: Commander203
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 6:36pm
|
Thanks, great idea Rob with the piano hinges. I'll definitely have to get that mod done soon. Sure will make accessing the items under the bed much easier. ------------- Mike & Erin 2013 Tundra 4.6L V8 (Tow PK) 2006 Honda Goldwing GL 1800 2005 Honda VTX 1800N |
Posted By: Grandpa Hiker
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 6:44pm
|
I wish I could take credit for the idea, but I got it from the forum. So many good ideas here & on the R-Pod Owners Facebook page. I am a tinker & piddler so every day I read all of the new posts on both sites & copy down the ideas for more mods & add them to my To Do List. ------------- Rob & Becky 2014 Ford Explorer 3.5 SOHC V6 2015 R-179 Pod aka Piddle Pod "Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass, it is about learning to dance in the rain!!" |
Posted By: mikeyg2347
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2015 at 3:27pm
|
Thanks for the winterization checklist. The Rpod manual had me lost, but your list was clear and easy to follow. One thing I did find....you made a note that the pump for the 171 is located with the water heater. We have a 2015 model and the pump is located behind the panel that is below the water heat and pump switches. Very easy to get to. ------------- Mike |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2015 at 7:37pm
|
I removed that note when I recently revised the instructions, and several others due to changes since it was first written. Thanks for the update. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|