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Robert Lunsford
Newbie
Joined: 24 Sep 2014
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Posts: 17
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Topic: 178 Water Heater Access Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 10:48am |
Anyone know how to get to the water heater bypass valve on a 2014 178 and what's it look like? NO access under mattress, or from outside panel.
Forrest River, you owe me a decent product manual for my R Pod, the one with it is worthless, looks like you got it from Wikipedia.
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Podster
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Joined: 16 Sep 2014
Location: San Antonio
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Posts: 1108
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Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 10:51am |
You have to pull the plywood up from the bed deck.
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Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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Robert Lunsford
Newbie
Joined: 24 Sep 2014
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Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 11:17am |
Well, that's certainly an efficient place to put it! lol
If i'm just draining the water heater, and blowing out the lines, is there any real reason bypass it at all in your opinion? I'm seeing both view points, some say they just blow out the lines, pour some anti freeze and the traps, and they are done. Others run anti freeze through the lines. Not sure why that's necessary, as it appears bone dry after blowing them out.
As a newbie, don't want to take chances! Expecting a hard freeze in Indiana tonight. thanks.
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Podster
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Location: San Antonio
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Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 11:39am |
I guess its just a matter of preference and comfort level. Living in South Texas we do get the occasional blue northern that puts us into a hard 2 or 3 day freeze. Using the anti freeze through the lines method surely provides a higher measure of protection, however, I am completely comfortable with the blow out and treat the trap method and willing to accept whatever consequences come with that. My service tech at the dealer in Iowa said that is all they ever do for winterize service. I have not seen any formal documentation on why one is better or should be used over the other. It seems the only issue is weather or not you have access to compressed air.
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Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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Robert Lunsford
Newbie
Joined: 24 Sep 2014
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Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 11:43am |
I used to have compressed air access, but I got divorced in '88, and never remarried.
Thanks for the help!
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Luv2Q
Senior Member
Joined: 30 Aug 2014
Location: Central TX
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Posts: 309
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Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 12:25pm |
Originally posted by Robert Lunsford
I used to have compressed air access, but I got divorced in '88, and never remarried.
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Dang, I'm going to remember this one! "Compressed air" sounds so much better than Gas Bag.
Sorry .. Couldn't help m'self. ![Big smile Big smile](smileys/smiley4.gif)
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John & Teri
Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180
E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3
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kandk920
Newbie
Joined: 11 Sep 2014
Location: Omro, WI
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Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 12:40pm |
I have cut the plywood so I just need to lift up the section over the water heater. Took me 10 min to winterize using less than 2 gal of pink stuff given our winters here in WI go below freezing and stay there. I don't want to take any chance of any water being left in the system. After watching the attached video on blowing out the lines, I'm not assured they are clear enough to be protected. http://youtu.be/anVeFfQdYkw
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2015 R-Pod 178
2008 Town & Country
Fox Valley, WI
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Location: MD
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Posts: 9059
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Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 2:25pm |
Just using compressed air won't get it all out of the low spots, including in the valve seats. It takes an extra 10 minutes and only a gallon of the pink stuff so you'll sleep better by just doing it. Full instructions in the link in my signature.
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Jdub
Groupie
Joined: 17 Mar 2013
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Posts: 94
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Posted: 31 Oct 2014 at 10:51pm |
Blow it out, fill the low spots with antifreeze, and don't forget the flush the toilet with the antifreeze until all the pressure is out of the system. I froze my toilet full of antifreeze last year...that was a drag. Of course I blamed my frozen tolet on Obama.
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Robert Lunsford
Newbie
Joined: 24 Sep 2014
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Posts: 17
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Posted: 01 Nov 2014 at 7:39am |
Obama's been freezing my toilets, too! THAT explains the backup!
Writing my Senator today.
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