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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Weak gas flow
    Posted: 09 Jun 2015 at 9:46pm
About a year ago I was asking about the source of a gas smell. XPod wrote in:

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2014 at 8:16am

It's the small propane regulator valve under your stove top. Pop the stove top off, give the valve a good sniff check. I'd bet that is it because mine did the same thing, I thought it was "tank smell" but it was propane. My dealer replaced the defective valve under the stove under warrenty.


Could this same propane regulator be the source of your poor stove performance?
Larry and Debbie w/Rosie the mutt. Old: '13 177, '06 Silverado V6
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 2015 at 11:40am
Originally posted by mtsapphire

Well, folks, I believe I figured it out. I turned the adjustment screw/valve (see photo) a 1/2 turn open. Now I have a big, fat stove flame AND warm water from the hot water heater, which is lighting and staying on. I'm assuming the fridge will now work well on gas, too. Why the valve came out of adjustment, I have no idea. If you see anything wrong with this picture, let me know. And Mountainrev, I, too, now have a strong gas flow!
 
The output pressure needs to be in a specific range, I think around 11 inches WC.  Adjusting the regulator w/o measuring the actual output could cause you further issues if it is now too high.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 10:30pm
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

Sorry to jump in on this this way -- I don't have an answer, but I have a related issue.

All my gas things work fine.  Heat, water heater, fridge.  The stove works too, but when I have one burner on high it's like it's on low.  If I light the other burner, they both burn but it's like you gotta be kidding.  There's enough heat there to sense with a sophisticated scientific instrument I suppose, but not enough to cook with.  I haven't looked but does anyone know if there is a valve in the supply line for the stove that might not be fully open, or otherwise kinked or blocked?

TT

Barring leaks and/or obstructions, you may have a faulty regulator as well. 

Here is how to build a Manometer:  Propane pressure manometer leak test tool for RV use.

Here is how to use it to test your pressure: Manometer testing for propane leaks in RV gas system

Good luck Sir...Come on back and let us know how it works out.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 10:25pm
Originally posted by mtsapphire

Well, folks, I believe I figured it out. I turned the adjustment screw/valve (see photo) a 1/2 turn open. Now I have a big, fat stove flame AND warm water from the hot water heater, which is lighting and staying on. I'm assuming the fridge will now work well on gas, too. Why the valve came out of adjustment, I have no idea. If you see anything wrong with this picture, let me know. And Mountainrev, I, too, now have a strong gas flow!

Well I'm no expert, but the system is designed to withstand a specific pressure and now it may be out of adjustment. That is what the regulator does, regulates the pressure. It may have got stuck or you may have overcome the obstacle by increasing the pressure, hence the warning on the valve and the absent recommendation here to adjust it. 

Of course they are your dice to roll, but I would have the system calibrated or check it yourself. It's not rocket science...you can probably find the procedure on Youtube Good luck Sir. 



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 8:58pm
Sorry to jump in on this this way -- I don't have an answer, but I have a related issue.

All my gas things work fine.  Heat, water heater, fridge.  The stove works too, but when I have one burner on high it's like it's on low.  If I light the other burner, they both burn but it's like you gotta be kidding.  There's enough heat there to sense with a sophisticated scientific instrument I suppose, but not enough to cook with.  I haven't looked but does anyone know if there is a valve in the supply line for the stove that might not be fully open, or otherwise kinked or blocked?

TT
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 8:41pm
Well, folks, I believe I figured it out. I turned the adjustment screw/valve (see photo) a 1/2 turn open. Now I have a big, fat stove flame AND warm water from the hot water heater, which is lighting and staying on. I'm assuming the fridge will now work well on gas, too. Why the valve came out of adjustment, I have no idea. If you see anything wrong with this picture, let me know. And Mountainrev, I, too, now have a strong gas flow!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 8:24pm
I agree if it is the regulator you just need to replace it.  They are fairly cheap.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 8:23pm
Originally posted by Mountainrev

I can't help you with your problem, sorry, but the title of your post immediately made me think that my wife wishes I shared this problem personally.  Sadly, I don't.

LOL
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 7:40pm
If you haven't already replaced, try this one last time. Turn all the gas appliances off, close the valve on the bottle, disconnect and wait 1 minute, re-connect and then open the valve slowly. Go inside the POD and open a stove burner and try to light it. 

If that doesn't work and you are sure there is no blockage or leaks, then I would replace the regulator. They can be tested, but probably not worth the trouble. 

Good luck and let us know how things work out. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 7:03pm
I can't help you with your problem, sorry, but the title of your post immediately made me think that my wife wishes I shared this problem personally.  Sadly, I don't.
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