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Weak gas flow

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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=6384
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Topic: Weak gas flow
Posted By: mtsapphire
Subject: Weak gas flow
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 2:28pm
New to this forum. Appreciate your help!  I have a 2013 RP177.  Having a problem with the gas flow (No, it's not the gas bottle!). First trip this year two days ago. Here are my symptoms: Noticed gas flame at stove cooktop was very low but enough to cook rice. Refrigerator was on gas, (level 3 of 5). Gas hot water heater went on but produced only lukewarm water, intermittently with cold water. Next morning, gas indicator light on refrigerator started to flash a warning. Turned it off. 
All this , I thought, pointed to need for a new gas bottle as original bottle had lasted for maybe 15-16 nights. Swapped it for a filled bottle (even though there was still some liquid swishing around in the old bottle). Now the problem is worse: stove top burners light (at very low level only) for about 2 secs. then go out. Hot water heater tries to turn on. I see a flame in the tube, but it goes out. Tries to restart. Click, click, click, Same result. Turned off the hot water switch. Swapped out the new bottle with the one for my barbecue, which I know works. Same result. Checked on-off valve at bottle. It's on.
First available service appointment June 29, so I am turning to you guys! Visual inspection shows no crimps in the gas line and I have had no accidents that would have damaged the line. Do not smell gas. Is this maybe a regulator issue? Something else? Your advice much appreciated!



Replies:
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 3:45pm
Welcome.  The immediate problem with the new tank could be the built-in high-flow cutoff valve.  Make sure you turn on the valve very slowly.  I count to 60.  Otherwise you will trigger it and you'll have to start over or wait until it resets itself which can take a while.

Assuming that isn't the problem, your next possible issue is a bad regulator.  That is the round object just after the LP tank.

A note on checking the fuel level:  take a cup of hot water and pour it down the side of the tank from the top shoulder.  Wait 10 seconds and then run the back of your finger down the side of the tank.  The fuel line will be where it changes from hot to cold.  This may not work if the tank has been sitting in the sun.  Even when full it will only be 80% full, so don't think you have been ripped off.


-------------
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: mtsapphire
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 6:09pm
Thank you, Doug. I tried the slow-turn of the gas valve as you suggested, but it made no difference.  Here is a picture of my regulator setup. It looks like two very similar regulator-type objects, one facing back, one facing front. Flow is to the left. Looks like an adjustment valve with a plastic cap in the middle (above the writing) Is this whole thing the regulator? Any way to test or should I try to replace?



Posted By: Mountainrev
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 7:03pm
I can't help you with your problem, sorry, but the title of your post immediately made me think that my wife wishes I shared this problem personally.  Sadly, I don't.

-------------
2014 177
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Turbodiesel

"I lift my eyes to the hills."


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 7:40pm
If you haven't already replaced, try this one last time. Turn all the gas appliances off, close the valve on the bottle, disconnect and wait 1 minute, re-connect and then open the valve slowly. Go inside the POD and open a stove burner and try to light it. 

If that doesn't work and you are sure there is no blockage or leaks, then I would replace the regulator. They can be tested, but probably not worth the trouble. 

Good luck and let us know how things work out. 


-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 8:23pm
Originally posted by Mountainrev

I can't help you with your problem, sorry, but the title of your post immediately made me think that my wife wishes I shared this problem personally.  Sadly, I don't.

LOL


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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 8:24pm
I agree if it is the regulator you just need to replace it.  They are fairly cheap.

-------------
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: mtsapphire
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 8:41pm
Well, folks, I believe I figured it out. I turned the adjustment screw/valve (see photo) a 1/2 turn open. Now I have a big, fat stove flame AND warm water from the hot water heater, which is lighting and staying on. I'm assuming the fridge will now work well on gas, too. Why the valve came out of adjustment, I have no idea. If you see anything wrong with this picture, let me know. And Mountainrev, I, too, now have a strong gas flow!


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 8:58pm
Sorry to jump in on this this way -- I don't have an answer, but I have a related issue.

All my gas things work fine.  Heat, water heater, fridge.  The stove works too, but when I have one burner on high it's like it's on low.  If I light the other burner, they both burn but it's like you gotta be kidding.  There's enough heat there to sense with a sophisticated scientific instrument I suppose, but not enough to cook with.  I haven't looked but does anyone know if there is a valve in the supply line for the stove that might not be fully open, or otherwise kinked or blocked?

TT


-------------
2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 10:25pm
Originally posted by mtsapphire

Well, folks, I believe I figured it out. I turned the adjustment screw/valve (see photo) a 1/2 turn open. Now I have a big, fat stove flame AND warm water from the hot water heater, which is lighting and staying on. I'm assuming the fridge will now work well on gas, too. Why the valve came out of adjustment, I have no idea. If you see anything wrong with this picture, let me know. And Mountainrev, I, too, now have a strong gas flow!

Well I'm no expert, but the system is designed to withstand a specific pressure and now it may be out of adjustment. That is what the regulator does, regulates the pressure. It may have got stuck or you may have overcome the obstacle by increasing the pressure, hence the warning on the valve and the absent recommendation here to adjust it. 

Of course they are your dice to roll, but I would have the system calibrated or check it yourself. It's not rocket science...you can probably find the procedure on Youtube Good luck Sir. 





-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2015 at 10:30pm
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

Sorry to jump in on this this way -- I don't have an answer, but I have a related issue.

All my gas things work fine.  Heat, water heater, fridge.  The stove works too, but when I have one burner on high it's like it's on low.  If I light the other burner, they both burn but it's like you gotta be kidding.  There's enough heat there to sense with a sophisticated scientific instrument I suppose, but not enough to cook with.  I haven't looked but does anyone know if there is a valve in the supply line for the stove that might not be fully open, or otherwise kinked or blocked?

TT

Barring leaks and/or obstructions, you may have a faulty regulator as well. 

Here is how to build a Manometer:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnlfQK-8qy4 - Propane pressure manometer leak test tool for RV use.

Here is how to use it to test your pressure:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRubt1b6-cA - Manometer testing for propane leaks in RV gas system

Good luck Sir...Come on back and let us know how it works out.


-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2015 at 11:40am
Originally posted by mtsapphire

Well, folks, I believe I figured it out. I turned the adjustment screw/valve (see photo) a 1/2 turn open. Now I have a big, fat stove flame AND warm water from the hot water heater, which is lighting and staying on. I'm assuming the fridge will now work well on gas, too. Why the valve came out of adjustment, I have no idea. If you see anything wrong with this picture, let me know. And Mountainrev, I, too, now have a strong gas flow!
 
The output pressure needs to be in a specific range, I think around 11 inches WC.  Adjusting the regulator w/o measuring the actual output could cause you further issues if it is now too high.


-------------
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: shroomer
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2015 at 9:46pm
About a year ago I was asking about the source of a gas smell. XPod wrote in:

XPod View Drop Down

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Joined: 08 Oct 2011
Location: Evansville IN
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Posts: 29
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  Quote XPod http://www.rpod-owners.com/new_reply_form.asp?M=Q&PID=43823&PN=2&TR=11 - Quote   Post Reply http://www.rpod-owners.com/new_reply_form.asp?PID=43823&PN=2&TR=11 - Reply
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3889&PID=43823&title=trials-and-tribulations-and-smell#43823">Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2014 at 8:16am

It's the small propane regulator valve under your stove top. Pop the stove top off, give the valve a good sniff check. I'd bet that is it because mine did the same thing, I thought it was "tank smell" but it was propane. My dealer replaced the defective valve under the stove under warrenty.


Could this same propane regulator be the source of your poor stove performance?


-------------
Larry and Debbie w/Rosie the mutt. Old: '13 177, '06 Silverado V6
New: '15 Whitehawk 20MRB '14 Silverado V8



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