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Topic ClosedKeeping refrigarator cold while driving - Event Date: 26 Jul 2014
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fwunder View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 Oct 2013
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Posts: 1676 		Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: Keeping refrigarator cold while driving
    Posted: 31 Jul 2014 at 9:28am
Hi Harry,

I can't answer your question technically, but I can say that from recent experience a 100+ mph apparent wind didn't stop the fridge. Through Wyoming we had 55+ mph headwinds driving @ 50+ mph. Put a hurting to gas milage, but fridge kept on keeping cold.

Two weeks into our trip we did have to defrost the fridge, though. I'm guessing the high humidity, frequent opening and stuffed fridge and freezer contributed to that. It was an easy 10 minute "fix" to empty contents into cooler and use hair dryer to defrost and repack. We keep a thermometer (analog) in the fridge and never had any cooling issues in fridge or freezer.

fred
2014 RPod 178 => MyMods and Buying Habits
2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6
Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks!
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Harry View Drop Down
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Posts: 38 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2014 at 9:12am
Now I have a really dumb question.  

In the past I have owned three campers, all with one version or another of a 3-way Dometic fridge. While camped and running on propane, the first moderate gust of wind would blow out the pilot light.  Driving with the pilot light on would be out of the question.  I wouldn't even get out of my driveway and expect it to remain lit.

Once I got the 176T, I assumed this would be the same situation, so I continued to drive with the fridge on 12V.  Yet, with a few exceptions, the general opinion in this forum is to run the fridge on propane while driving.  So.... how does the pilot light remain lit while driving at 60 mph?  Or, is there no pilot light and it lights electronically on demand?
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2014 at 7:54am
Techntrek,

Have you been able to find a real data sheet on ARB? What is the running current? They advertise a 0.87A maintaining current. Is this some sort of thermoelectric element maintain the temp vs the compressor running? Years ago small RV compressor fridges drew around 4A running and they were small boxes. Where are we today?
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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Posts: 438 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2014 at 6:37am
Not to downplay the TruckFridge but I did notice their warranty is 1 year where ARB is 3 year.
I'd also try to find out whose compressor system they use, the Danfoss appears to have the best reputation.
Another thing we find very useful is the lid pulls off straight back without any fuss or tools.  This is really appreciated in the back of a vehicle for loading the fridge etc when the lid won't open far due to the ceiling.  Don't know if the others do this or not.
Yes the ARB is expensive but its reputation is superb in the 4x4 world.  I love mine, one of the best purchases we've ever made.
I do concede the $200 price difference is substantial!  I'm not sure I even saw those or of they were around when I did my research a few years ago.
2014 179
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Posts: 9062 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2014 at 10:20pm
Hayduke, thanks.  I found the spec sheet and unfortunately they don't list the average amperage (or even max amps).  I may contact them to see if they know.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 63 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2014 at 3:41pm
I've always ran my fridge on 12V when driving. Then switch over to AC when hooked up. Never had an issue yet.
2014 rPod 178
2014 Toyota Tundra 5.7
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Posts: 68 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2014 at 12:14pm
Techntrek:
Not to get too far off topic here, but I have one of these:
http://www.truckfridge.com/store/page6.html

It's been a champ for me for the 2 years I've had it and quite a bit less expensive than the ARB models.
2012 177 HRE
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Posts: 9062 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2014 at 5:12pm
Increasing the size/gauge wiring between the truck battery and the Bargeman is the single best thing you can do to improve the cooling ability of the DC mode of the fridge.  My 2010 Chevy has 12 gauge wiring and the fridge temp starts to rise after just 2-3 hours on the road due to voltage drop.  For instance, with ONLY the load of the fridge (11 amps) run over 20 feet with 12 gauge wire, that is a full volt drop from the battery to the back bumper.  That means some of the load will be carried by the camper battery.  Add in a low battery on the camper and the voltage drop will mean you get nothing from the truck and the battery on the camper will be discharged quickly.

It is on my to-do to run an additional 10 or 8 gauge wire back to the Bargeman.  I'm also seriously considering an ARB portable fridge for our most critical foods (milk, meat, etc) since it uses a DC-driven compressor and uses very little amperage to do it.  It can run for days on a single deep cycle battery.  I have a cheap Coleman Powerchill that uses the Peltier technology (solid state thermoelectric) and it has 2 major disadvantages.  One, it uses 5 amps continuous.  That's about a half-day on a deep cycle battery if there are no other loads.  Two, it only cools to about 40 degrees below ambient.  In a hot car or camper that means it is way too warm inside to keep food safe.  The ARB will maintain safe temps no matter how hot it is ambient.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 17 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2014 at 10:09am
SmileYpu guys are all so helpful. Please keep the ideas coming.
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Posts: 2 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2014 at 3:26pm
I added a second battery, and it works great. Keeps refrigerator cold al day while running, then recharges when I am plugged in at night
Eldon
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