By the way, welcome to the forum.

Now, as for the pictures, you need to use an image editing program such as the GIMP (Gnu Image Manipulation Program which is available for multiple platforms) or other image editing program to re-size your photos. I find 800x600 or equivalent to work well as this reduces the file sizes to a good size that isn't too big while still being big enough to see details. Upload your picture and it will show up in the box on the left. Select it and then when you hit the OK button, it will be inserted into your post. If you want to insert multiple pictures, hit your down arrow to get your cursor below the picture you just inserted and repeat the process.

Edit:  You can also go back and edit your previous post to insert the pictures there instead of creating a new post. The Edit function is under the Post Options.

Do yourself a favour and buy some Eternabond tape from Amazon. Cut some thin strips and tape it along the side rails at on the roof.also use it over the spoiler if you have one and it will most certainly seal the roof from any future leaks. The spoilers are notorious for leaking. I also took all the screws out from the trim that joins the vertical walls to the roof and replaced them with stainless and a bit of sicaflex. Many screws holes were drilled by the manufacturer but didn’t have screws and the trim is like a gutter and causes leaks. One day they may actually come to the conclusion that good manufacturing will create more sales. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Interbuild-6-ft-L-x-25-in-D-Acacia-Butcher-Block-Standard-Countertop-in-Golden-Teak-with-Square-Edge-675781/317198293

Here's a before and after.

As you can see, I added some flip-up countertop on each side to make the kitchen much more user-friendly and a nice shiny SS sink and stovetop from ebay. Here are some pics of the build process. First I removed the old countertop and added some 1 x 12 pine boards to each side for mounting the flip-up countertops.

Continued on next post.

I rounded the corners of the flip-up counters using my router. I think it looks pretty good. It's a huge improvement over the stock countertop.

Also replaced corroded door and storage locks, step handle, front outside light (bad switch), new safety chains (old ones were very rusty), dual propane tank mounts and cover, propane regulator and hoses, aluminum diamond plate battery box, new end caps on original sewer hose storage tube, new 15' Rynoflex sewer hose and longer second storage tube, new wheels and tires ( it had the original 10 year old tires on corroded rims without a spare, and a spare tire holder on back (it was missing and I had to adapt one off of Amazon). 

v

I had to cap off this drainpipe. I ended up cutting it right at the hub of the elbow and used a rubber cap to seal it.I had to widen the opening to get the saw in there.

Don't worry, I used a hose clamp to keep it in place. 

I found this matching piece of wall behind the broken refrigerator and carefully cut it to size since I did not have a second chance.

Here's the rubber cap with the hose clamp on it.

After squaring up the hole (a utility knife works really well on this thin stuff), I glued and clamped these pieces of 1 x 3 around the perimeter so that I could glue the new piece in there.

Here it is all glued into place. It doesn't match exactly, but it's good enough for me. I also need to put in some kind of corner molding since the one in there has a big gap.

This is what I used to caulk it. 

v

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B15B76GF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also added a variable speed controler to the fantastic fan to replace the inefficient 3 speed control. Here's what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F839VNQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The heater was not working so I took it apart and cleaned the sail switch. Now it works.  Here are pics showing the two screws that need to be removed to take the outer shell off.

And then it slides apart like this. I used compressed air to get ride of most of the dust.

Here are pics of the sail switch and how I cleaned the switch and its contacts with contact cleaner.

There were some tiny screw heads that I had to use my linesman pliers to remove.

The water heater gas  worked but the electric did not. I replaced the disintegrating anode, flushed the tank, cleaned up and painted the outside of the water heater, and replaced the bad electric heating element.

To be continued...

Very nice !  There is probably a job opening at FR for you; you could be in charge of upgrading the substandard build of the R-Pod and could watch sales skyrocket!  I like your faucet, did the same on our 2011 177 a number of years ago when the chincy handle broke. That is some workmanship you should be proud of!!

Noticed you still have the old curtains over the back window.  Something we did back in 2013 was to replace that with a 2x cellular shade from Blinds.com; still very functional today.  We like it as it can be raised and lowered instantly for instant view or privacy.

A few years ago when our fridge turned 10 years old, I replaced it with the same model.  Even now I would do the same since boondocking is our normal way to camp, propane is king for us as we do not utilize either solar or use a generator.  Glad it works for you.  Thanks for your updates.

Thanks. I did not remove the upper bunk yet, but the thought crossed my mind. Also, I treated the wood supporting the bed with the same Interbuild hard wax oil used on the countertop to make it water resistant. I also painted the plywood bed support with Rustoleum enamel for the same purpose.

 

We plan on getting some solar panels for when we boondock. I'm not sure how often we will do that. The 12 volt fridge is just much less complex and therefore has less to go wrong with it. Hopefully it is reliable for us.

Just go to Blinds.com.  Many different colors and cell thicknesses (we used 2x).  Simply measure your width and length.  Their reps. are very helpful if you need assistance.  We went with a shade that was 2" wider than the window and 2" longer.

I actually weighed them both and took pictures of the scale. After reviewing the pictures, the original weighed 12.4 lbs. and the butcherblock weighed 9 lbs. This did not include the flip up sections or the hardware that supports them, just the main countertop. Pressed wood is heavier than solid wood.

Thanks for the info. I was wondering what the 2x meant.

Hi lostagain,

That actually sounds like a good idea. I just measured and we could gain an extra 2" of width to make it 46" wide and have an extra deep storage area that could hold a propane generator if needed. I was about to cut a memory foam mattress to size, but now am reconsidering it. Hmmm, that means more work for me. It would also be nice to have the domed roof above the bed; it would feel much less claustrophobic. Thank you.

Hi gpokluda,

I love my LHT. It hasn't seen much use lately, but I have used it a lot in the past as a commuter and for some on/off road bikepacking trips. It's a real workhorse. With the ability to put mountain bike tires on it, it's my do-anything bike.

I'm not sure how you feel about the storage in the 172 but there wasn't enough for me and, for me, lifting the bed or the cushions to get under them was to hard. I removed the paneling under the bed and under the dinette seats and added storage boxes that can pull out like drawers. I used trim to finish off the rough pieces of wood that made the frame. I think the 172 is one of the most versatile floor plans ever. :)