My slide is totally dead just happened the other day. Batteries are full and fine and even when plugged in the slide does not make any sound or movement. All fuses good and there is power going to the wall switch. From what I know the controller is under the seat which is now covered by the slide and not accessible. Very smart design, is there any way to reset the controller to get the slide to come to life, again was working fine till the other day, brought it in, drove an hour and tried to open slide and it was dead. I am an engineer and very handy, if there is any way of manually getting the slide to go out so I can access the controller and motor area would be nice. Thanks for any suggestions, power is all good, need to get access the controller which I believe is in the covered area. Nothing under the refrigerator in this model, just two electrical wires, the controller is not there as far as I can see.

More info:

Well I do believe that the controller is in the ottoman, with the slide all the way in you can not get to the hatch, the motors are accessible but the screw to loosen them from the outside not accessible with the slide all the way in. Great design, somebody was not using their brain. Couple of options, I have made harnesses to connect to the motors directly and can try to power them to put the slide out assuming they are OK then I can access the hatch and see what the controller says. Have disconnected batteries from the RV and taken all power away for a min or so and have not had any luck.

Slide has been working fine, only thing I did different when I put the slide in and was towing the RV was that I ran the refrig on battery power, when I got to the camping spot 2 hours away the slide would not work, batteries still fully charged (have 400W solar system and RV was connected to car).

Called factory and they have not been much help, a technical person was supposed to get back to me, meanwhile ordered the outriggers to fix sag which the slide is developing. Will also support the kitchen floor soon, sag there will show up soon too. Somebody also lost my screen slide door and been trying to find one and it is only 10" tall which is not standard so have not had any luck, waiting on factory on this too. Not been my week.

Other options is to cut and access hole into the ottoman problem is I don't know how things are installed inside there and don't want to damage any equipment trying to get in there, will run a scope into the area and look at things, regardless this issue has become huge headache.

Any help appreciated, as I said huge headache which could have been avoided by having the controller installed in a proper location.


Don

Have looked behind that wood under the refrigerator and controller was not there, just scoped under the ottoman and the controller is there and is even installed upside down so I can not see the codes, the hatch is totally covered by the slide and the wires going to the motors are too thin to splice into, was going to tap into them and run the motors but now will order two harnesses so I can connect to the motors and hopefully push the slide out and not damage the wiring.  The motor wires way too thin, I think they might get cut if I try to splice into them.  Saga continues.  Hate to cut into the ottoman but than would be my last resort to make a access port and then make a door there, will not be pretty but slide not working like this is a very big deal.  Any other ideas let me know.  the motors have brakes in them so don't know about pushing the slide out but then it would also have to be pushed back in if things don't go well.  Screw for loosening the motors is covered by the edge of the slide and is not accessible right now since slide is all the way in. 

Don

Is it mounted against the wall below the slide-out? When you say you "scoped" it, do you have a fiber optic scope that you used? If so, could you not see the codes using that?

I recommend NOT cutting through the seat area. That is the floor of the slide-out and will make a pretty big hole to weatherproof if you cut through that. The ottoman is basically fabric on the sides. It would be easier to reupholster them.

I went out and looked at mine. Here are the fault codes:

Green LED

1 blink - Motor 1

2 blinks - Motor 2

Red LED

Blinks Fault

2 Battery Dropout

3 Low Battery

4 High Battery

5 Excessive Motor Current

6 Motor Short Circuit

8 Wire Short Between Controller and Motor

9 Hall PWR Short to GND

How to manually override

1. Press button 6 times and hold on the 7th press until the lights start to flash

2. Use the normal slide control switch located inside coach to retract room

In your case, you are trying to extend, not retract. The button is in the rectangular cut-out on the front with the LEDs.

Here is a picture of mine.

Thanks yes I used a fiber scope like for car engines and put thru the hole in the back of the ottoman on both sides and looks like the controller is there and it is upside down so the button and codes and LEDs are facing the floor of the RV.  Again who built this.

Was going to patch into the wires for the motors but the wires are so thin I was afraid the tap might damage them and then I have other issues so I order to set of 5' pigtails today so I can power the two motors at the same time manually via connecting the pigtails and then connecting other end to a battery.  RV is leaving tomorrow and coming back on Sunday, wires will be here next week so either that works or I am going to cut thru the side of the ottoman and will then make a hatch there, yes realized today that can not come thru the top since that is the floor of the slide. 

Bought the RV since I have had other RVs from this manufacturer and did not have any issues but R Pods seem to have lots of issues, have addressed most but dealing with the sagging floor issues soon.  Ordered the outriggers from factory and for the kitchen area going to put up two supports and just use a pressure threaded wood there to support things.  I also have metal around and might be able to make a metal support, tried to buy one of the support which the tanks hang off of and factory would not sell it to me.  Thanks for the replies and again yes with the optical scope I see the wires going into the controller but all I see is the back side of the controller.  Hope this helps other people, if your controller is in the ottoman move it or make access to it since the situation I am in is very stupid and frustrating.

Don

My slide would not go out after arriving at my destination.  The problem was a wire had bounced off in transit.  I photo'ed it with my phone and after staring at the pic, finally realized the red wire was off.

It's always the red wire!  Never cut the green wire! 

Originally posted by DHabibi

Sorry it posted before I could type in.  So assuming your controller was accessible since with the 179 the controller is in the ottoman and not accessible when the slide is in. 

Just another quick update, again with my external wire harness which I made I was able to put the slide out; with slide out and ottoman hatch accessible I tapped into the coaches wires going to the motors and attached a set of wires so I can go to a battery source (with original harness wire ends disconnected from the controller, don't want to put power into the controller from that end) and put the slide in and out manually using the R-Pods original wires which are on the motors. 

People were asking for emergency way of dealing with Lippert system, just wanted to share this since this is the only way to have an emergency way to put the slide in and out assuming the motors are working and at least the black and red wire of the harnesses are OK. 

This way I don't have to disconnect those wires from the motors and reconnect my other patch cord, so I did this for emergency if the controller goes bad again and need to put the slide in or out.  Will put this wiring hardness under the refrigerator so it can be accessed.  Other thing which I have notice; when the positive power wire to the controller broke off it must have touched the negative terminal below it and the wire end is a bit melted.  Since no fuses were blown then obviously this line is not fused; so I am putting a 15 amp in line fuse on this line since my controller is fried due to the short.  People were talking about fuse in the fuse panel but that fuse only takes care of the switch power not the heavy duty supply power which goes to the side of the controller, this line is not fused as far as I can tell since it is still powered even after shorting out. 

Still waiting on a new controller so things can go back to normal.  My original controller is definitely bad.  Bought a used controller if it works great otherwise will order a $350 new one, they are available just very pricey.  If anybody has questions about the wiring I can help, just note that the wires going to the motors need to be reversed for one of them, one motor needs to turn one way and the other the other way in order for slide to go in and out.  Assuming this makes sense.  You need to power both motors at the same time so slide again works, by reversing the connection to the battery you can put the slide in and out so red and black don't mean positive and negative in this case.

Don

OK my last update on this since I finally figure it all out and got everything working.  So there is a large fuse, I am assuming 30-40 amps bolted to the floor of the RV behind the fuse panel by the door.  So when the positive line on my controller broke off and shorted to the ground it damaged this fuse but did not burn it.  I bought a controller (used) and it turned out to have problems (my luck, returned), my own controller turned out not to be burned, the code 2 it was giving me was not making sense since it was not moving from motor to motor when I was switching connectors.  Any way I put my controller in the system and powered it with an independent battery locally and everything worked.  The large wire from this fuse the controller is very thick (6 gauge or so)  and obviously was not damaged so this fuse is not totally burned but is not allowing enough power to go to the controller.  I disconnected wire from this fuse and used a 30 amp fuse on an empty spot on the regular fuse panel and wired everything and it works great.  25A blows when the slide gets to the end or all the way in since the motors are pulling more than 25 amp when limited, 30 amp fuse is working fine.  At some point I might grab another large fuse and wire things the way they were but for now using regular fuse spot in number 8 which was empty is working fine.  The board should be able to handle the 27 amps or so which is getting pulled by the motors when limited.  I also made a relay system using two relays which would allow me to do without the controller all together for but now things are back to normal, I am keeping the relay system and the wire system which I made for going straight to the motors for emergency use.  All done, hope all of this helps.  To get to the fuse for the slide you have take out the whole fuse box assembly.