My 196 is pre wired for a solar option that apparently would be mounted on the roof.   Would those of you who have this option say it's worthwhile or would you prefer to have one of the stand alone portable suitcase solutions?  

Having the pre wired option installed sounds like a nice way to have solar "built in" to the RV so it's easily available and always charging without much thought.  

The stand alone suitcase solution requires setup/breakdown time and storage space.   I imagine I would need to secure it somehow if I leave my campsite unattended.  While this isn't ideal, I can imagine scenarios where it would be nice to have a stand alone solution separate from the RV.  

Cost is also a consideration - What's a fair price to have my RV service dept install a solar option?

Thanks for taking the time.  

 

I am also considering the solar option. Most likely will go with a stand alone portable unit or panel and connect a charge controller to the panel. I will then run wires to the batteries for charging. The advantage of portable is you can park the R-pod in the shade and put the panels in the sun. The advantage to roof mounted panels is they charge while you are moving as well as parked.

Just some thoughts.

We have the renogy 100 watt suitcase unit and love it. As you said, there are pros and cons to both types.  We have used the suitcase unit for about 3 years and never had issues.  I'm sure someone could steal it, but so far not a problem.

One additional thing to consider when going with solar is your battery choice.  We use 2 6volt golf cart batteries. this gives us the maximum number of recharge cycles and the most amp hours of usage with a "normal" flooded battery. We get them at costco for about $110 each. they add to the tongue weight, but also add to the available power-it's worth the weight.

Vann

Thanks for the tips on batteries and hooking directly to the batteries, I'm still unclear how the Zamp connector factors into this, is the Zamp connector another way for a "suitcase system" to connect to the battery or is there more to it than that?

Thanks again for all the great replies!  

Basically the rule of thumb for any circuit protection, regardless of voltage, is that each and every piece of wire should be protected from excess current flowing into it from any potential source. So for the solar circuit you have two sources, the battery and the solar module/controller.

Say you accidentally short a cable run to a portable solar kit from the battery. The current flow which is normally from the solar to the battery will reverse and flow from the battery into the short. That's why the fuse or breaker needs to be at the battery. 

Current will flow into the short from the solar end also, but solar modules are by nature current limited, so if you short one out the current only goes up by about 10%, no big deal. The wire is automatically protected without needing a fuse at the solar end.  OTOH, shorting the battery will produce heaps of current which without a fuse or breaker will promptly melt the insulation off the cable and start a fire.

Hope that makes sense. 

there has been no mention of the solar charge controller in this discussion. Just to make sure I understand correctly, the solar panel feeds the solar charge controller and then on to the battery. I have a fuse between the solar charger controller and the battery. Is that correct?

thank you

Vann

Correct. Locate the fuse at the battery end of the positive output wire from the charge controller. The fuse is there to protect the wire, so it should be no higher than 20A for 12 gauge, 30A for 10 gauge, or 40A for 8 gauge. Could be a smaller fuse/breaker if you want, but per Code needs to be a minimum of 1.56 x Isc (short circuit current rating listed on the solar module label). The 1.56 multiplier - edit: two 25% factors multiplied together (1.25  X 1.25 = 1.56) is to avoid nuisance tripping if you get extra output from what's called the "edge of cloud" effect, where extra sunshine reflects off nice white clouds onto the solar module. 

Edit: the other question was placement fuses. If you think of an electrical system like a plumbing system it becomes clear. If you get a leak in a pipe and your only cutoff valve is downstream from where the leak is it does you no good. That's why fuses and circuit breakers are always placed upstream from the wires or devices they are supposed to protect. So a battery fuse or circuit breaker that is 20 ft from the battery doesn't help if you get a short in the wire in between. 

I put together my portable solar panel setup this week. Purchased 2 HQST 100 W Monocrystalline Solar Panels from Amazon along with a Renogy 20A waterproof charge controller.  I also bought 20 feet of 10AWG wire with the correct connectors and the male and female SAE connectors. I assembled the panels into one unit with legs made from spare aluminum banisters from my friend's railing project. The unit folds up and the wire and charge controller can fit inside. I also bought a case big enough to store the unit when closed.  Additional materials include: hinges, clasps to close the case, nuts and bolts, etc. The wire runs from the solar panels to the charge controller with a 15Amp in-line fuse. From the charge controller I attached the male SAE connector and the female will install on the battery case and connect to the battery with a 20A fuse on the positive lead. I can then just plug and unplug the unit at the batteries and attach the charge controller to the frame with magnets when in use.

I will attach magnets to the controller so I can attach to frame. May also come up with place near batteries if needed. Even though the charge controller is waterproof, I am looking at a small pelican type box to help protect it.

The 15A fuse between the panels and controller is just an extra precaution on my part.

I plan to mount on top.

If you or others have done this, I would appreciate reading your advice, steps, and such for installing the kit. I am handy, but haven't done this before.  

I have the zamp connection at the back of my 2015 RP179, and two taped cables up at the batteries marked "Solar". We have two 6v golf cart batteries installed. 

I gather from your earlier reply that the two "Solar" cables up front only go back to the zamp connector at the rear and no where else?

I note your suggestion about connecting directly at the batteries, but, when connecting the "Solar" wires to the battery for solar charging do I have to disconnect the two wires that are already connected to the batteries and go back into the chassis, presumably to the Electrical distribution box? 

As you recommended I can get an inline fuse to fix to the zamp cable positive line at the battery end.

Thanks so much for your time,

Stay well and stay healthy,

Rana.

I'll do as you suggest about the disconnection of the two main wires, and then connect the solar wires, and then reconnect the main wires. 

I am presuming that the main wires can stay connected until the battery charging is complete and I take the solar wires off, or pull out the plug at the rear?? 

There is no mention of a charging controller in my package that came with the portable panels, will I need to get one?

Thanks so much, again,

Rana

Rana.

Thanks again.