Others like Hondas and Yamaha, but they're out of our budget.  The Predator from Harbor Freight is also spoken highly of in the board.  I checked into it and found that they seem to have quality control issues and the warranty is only 90 days compared to Champion's 3 years.  

If you want to be able to run everything at once you need at least 3000 watts.  That's a big, heavy generator.  If you don't think you need to run the AC, water heater on electric, and the microwave all at once you can get by nicely with 2000 to 2400 watts, which can me physically a lot more manageable.  Some people get two Honda or other 2000 w generators that can be coupled together.  Use one or two depending probably on whether you want to use the AC.  If you just want to keep the battery charged you can probably get by with a 500 w generator.

One of the most important issues in choosing a generator, in my opinion, and in the opinion of your campground neighbors, is the sound level.  Look for about 53 dB.

TT

I just bought a Champion 100216 generator(4500/3650) and will be receiving a Stromberg-Carlson cargo rack for it tomorrow. I wanted to go with the Predator 3500 but as Lostagain stated, they are having issues with it. Plus, as he said, 90 day warranty as opposed to 3 years and the Champion is half the price but no real extras, plain jane but adequate.

What have you Champion folks experienced and do any of you guys have it mounted on the SC?

Thanks for any responses...i am single RV'er so had to go with the SC rather than muscling in and out of my Explorer.  At 74 I don't throw 100lbs around any more.

Doug

I'm using a 2200W Westinghouse. That means it can go up to 2200W. It normally runs 1800W, but being an inverter generator, it can slow down the engine to reduce output to match load. This will run everything in the camper, just not at the same time.

Smaller generators, like the 2000W size ones, can have trouble starting the compressor in the AC unit, but there are ways to alleviate that. The MicroAir Easy Start costs $300 and can make it very easy for a 2000W generator to start the AC. Personally, if I didn't already have a generator, I'd get the Easy Start, install it and then get the 2500W Westinghouse iGen. That would come in <$1000 and run the AC on hot days with a bit of overhead. 

No one within a couple hundred yards of you is going to like you when you run that thing. Open frame generators are LOUD. Like, construction site loud. 

Just get an adapter. The only difference is the plug. The standard household plugs are 15A. The ones that have the little T shaped hole on the left instead of just a vertical slot are 20A outlets. The camper will work fine with a converter on the plug end of the cable. 

Greetings

Has anyone used a Generac or Briggs and Straton inverter?   I see them at Menards.  I have a Honda 2000 that has been in use for over 10 years.  I'm sure it has over 1200 plus hrs on it.  It runs great, doesn't use any oil, and all I've done to it is change oil after every use and put in a new spark plug.  At 78, I think it will outlast me!

Crankster78  R-179 2015 

Did some research on using the Champion generator I bought on line. Went to the Federal Parks webpage and came across their requirements for running a generator. Well, they want it less than

60 Dba> I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the Champ but not one to take a chance, I took the Champion back...still in box so had no problem. Went over to Harbor Freight and bought their 3500 Inverter Generator.  I will set it up today and run it.

Comes with 90day warranty so need to use it as much as possible. Didn't get extended warranty yet and may not. Doing research on it, you get a one time use of the warranty so if it's a minor issue, they will cover it and then you need to purchase another.

Thanks for the input and making me do more research. I'm sure I will be happy with the 3500. I have a Predator 2200 that is great but won't run the a/c.

Doug

I think you'll be happier. That Champion is about 68dB at 23 feet, the Predator is 57dB, but has an "eco" mode, where the engine will slow down and will be quieter. Almost all inverter generators can do this. 

I took a quick look at the MicroAir Easy Start and it looks quite different than the hard-start capacitor I tried and removed because it made the AC harder and not easier to start. I'll have to see what is required for our AC unit.

How hard was it to install?

Hey Folks, any precautions to take when switching off the Converter CB? I'm going to give my smaller gen another try. Looking at my CB panel, Main 30amp, a/c is a 20amp. i agree, the smaller Predator should work except it has a note on the 120v plug...do not exceed 18 amps. That may be why it overloaded.Think???

Thanks

Doug

Thanks Stephen: Since I have both predators I think I will forgo the Easy Start and sell the little guy and go with the 3500. Thanks again for your input. I can see further running of the 2200 will not produce a different result unless I have the ES installed. Weight will be a concern so will need to do some appropriate balancing of my travel items since I hope to be on the road for 4-6 months. This summer will be a real learning experience.

Doug

If you've ever wired anything up, it's really simple. It doesn't come with the install kit, so make sure you get it, unless you have a couple butt connectors  and some blade connectors. I think the 10-12ga size are the ones I used. 

If you had all the stuff and tools up on the roof with you, I'd say you could knock it out in 30 minutes. There's an open area behind the compressor that I stuck the Easy Start to, using a couple 3M double sided adhesive patches that I had for some GoPro mounts. Those things are crazy sticky! 

Here's a YouTube video about the installation. Our AC units (at least on the 2018 models) are identical to the one shown, even though the one in the video is a 15,000BTU unit. The layout and wiring is all identical. 

http://https://youtu.be/O4o0g4dTYYA - http://https://youtu.be/O4o0g4dTYYA

I'd recommend only using one 120V appliance at a time. 

Run the fridge on LP, it's more efficient that way, and barely sips battery power and barely uses any LP. 

Turn off the breaker for the converter, and it will turn off the battery charger, which draws 120V power. 

The TV probably doesn't even draw 100W. I'd be surprised if it were over 50W, but I haven't looked it up. 

You'll generally have to watch what you have on when you're on the generator. 

Personally, as I mentioned (I think), I'll use a 100W solar panel to keep the battery charged, and I'll turn off the converter, so the 12V systems operate only on solar/battery. Check the battery voltage at night, though. Make sure it's not getting too low, if it does, turn the converter back on for an hour or two on the generator. 

Thanks. I had been looking at the videos and thinking it would not be too difficult. I do have a good assortment of connectors and appropriate sized wire already so I don't think I would need to purchase the installation kit.

thanks

tom

The single phase unit, the 364. That'll do the trick!

I did some looking around, Dometic shows the newest 13,500BTU AC unit runs at 1670W. 

We'll all want to be sure we have generators that can at least cover that usage. More if we'll be at higher altitude. My 2200W Westinghouse runs at 1800W. I'm actually thinking I'll sell it and get the Westinghouse iGen 2500.. it runs at 2200W.. that gives some overhead! 

Yeah, 2200W... the newer Dometic 13,500BTU unit runs at 1670W. The microwave is probably 1200W. You won't be able to run both simultaneously. Just turn off the AC for a few minutes while you're nuking the foods, then turn the AC back on!  

Originally posted by FrayAdjacent Yeah, 2200W... the newer Dometic 13,500BTU unit runs at 1670W. The microwave is probably 1200W. You won't be able to run both simultaneously. Just turn off the AC for a few minutes while you're nuking the foods, then turn the AC back on!

I forget sometimes and start the microwave while the air is on.  My generator, a Yamaha 2400, shuts down.  Not a big deal.  There are very seldom, if ever, times when it's more than the slightest inconvenience to swap out between the air and the microwave.

TT

I have the Predator 3500 running right now. I question whether I have the newer 13,500 a/c or not. Now, the Predator had 4 real light hours put on it so I wanted to make sure that it would do the a/c. It is running at over 1900 watts...to as high as 1984. That was after startup which I didn't see. When I turned the a/c on the Predator barely hick upped. I want to put about 5 hours on it with the a/c running and then change the oil again. I changed it at 1 hour.

Doug

First impressions of the EasyStart:

Installation:

Not difficult. The hardest part is re-using the strain relief if you don't purchase the installation kit. I didn't since I had a good assortment of connectors and proper guage wire. I did go out and purchase heavy-duty flag style connectors though as I did not have any of those on hand (I thought I did, but didn't). The extras will go into my box for future use on other projects. The diagram that came with the EasyStart covered the wiring of different style systems. However, I went online and found a setup tutorial specific to the Penguin II model that is used on most, if not all, recent R-Pod models. I had to bend some copper tubing slightly to make just a bit more room, but that was not hard at all.

While I had it apart, I saw that one of the machine bolts for the fan motor was sitting in the bottom of the pan. I remedied that, putting it back where it belongs.

After completing the installation, I began the recommended five starts on shore power. Since the instructions say that there is an internal timer to prevent it from restarting within 5 minutes, I ran it until I could measure air coming out at about 60 degrees F, then cut it off. I did this with the fan speed on High.

Once the initial training was done, I started the Generac iX2000 and turned on the AC. The Generac dis speed up, but it did not have the same surge that it did without the EasyStart. It is running now and does not appear to be straining. I have it in Eco mode, and it still started the AC with no problem.

Evaluation:  I think this will be a good move. The proof will be when it gets hot or when we are at higher elevations. Today is cooler than it has been so it isn't a hard test today. When it starts pushing 100F again, then it will be a better test. In the meantime, I think the EasyStart is going to prove itself to be a worthwhile addition to the Dometic AC. It is a shame that Dometic does not build them with EasyStart circuitry in the first place.

The Easy Start is $300. Worth it if you want to run off of a 2000W size generator. 

I'll be doing a lot of camping without hookups, but want AC if it's hot out... and I like the smaller ~2000W generators for their portability. 

Power management isn't the issue, it's the very large spike in current draw when the AC compressor starts. 2000W generators usually aren't going to be able to provide enough, even for the moment it takes. Doesn't matter how much stuff you don't have turned on. 

How much was the discount with the FORESTRIVER code?  

Are the installation instructions pretty clear? 

Thanks in advance.

I got the discount code direct from Micro-Air's customer support when I called. Before you check out, there will be a place to enter the discount code. I don't remember though if it was before entering the credit card data, but it was before the final purchase approval. The discount was $40.00.

The instructions that come in the box are pretty generic. However, go on their site and download the more detailed Penguin II instructions. They are quite clear. I did not purchase the installation kit so what I did was slightly different. I re-used the strain relief, adding the wires for the Easy Start. It was a bit tricky as it was a very tight fit to get the strain relief back in place with the additional wires. Also, I left the PTC and start capacitor in place after disconnecting the wires. I just wrapped the loose ends up and used a wire tie to get and keep them out of the way. If you don't already have a tool for cutting wires and crimping terminals, you will need one. They aren't expensive. The Easy Start wires do not have terminals pre-attached so you will need the tool regardless of whether you buy the installation kit or not.

@ $259 + tax, lic, & doc fee, it looks like a pretty good deal.  

Soft start systems are the way to go when ever you can get them to put on things using an electric motor and needing a lot of "umpf" in the start process.  We use them extensively in the elevator industry, especially for hydraulic jack pumps.  They really extend the life of the equipment.

If it is the Micro-Air Easy Start, then the web site is:

https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters - https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters

Don't forget the discount code FORESTRIVER

The unit is installed inside the unit on top of the R-Pod. There is a good guide on the web site for installing in the Penguin II unit.