What TV (tow vehicle) are you using?
To expand on furpod's #1, there is a charge (+12) line on the Bargeman (the round electrical connection) which must be hooked up AND needs properly-sized wire running to it. GM vehicles for instance come with a 12 gauge wire to that pin, but it (and the brake controller line that runs into the cabin for a brake controller) is not hooked up at the factory. It takes 10 minutes to locate and hook up both wires -
but 12 gauge wire isn't big enough, especially if you run your fridge on DC mode while you drive.
Some hard numbers: just the fridge uses 11 amps in DC mode, excluding what the pod's battery will try to draw if it is discharged (which will be much more than 11 amps itself). Assuming a 20 foot run from your TV battery to the Bargeman on the back, with 12 gauge wire, 14 volts (typical alternator output) and a 11 amp load, there is a 6.3% voltage drop. That leaves you with 13.1 volts at the Bargeman, which will drop further between that point and the battery connection. To maintain the charge on the pod battery you need at least 13.7 volts at the pod battery, so you can see there is already a deficit which will be made up by discharging the pod battery instead of charging it. Not a big deal for a 1-2 hour trip (only if you aren't boondocking at your destination), but after several hours on the road your fridge will start to warm. Been there, done that. At a minimum you need 8 gauge wire which is still barely big enough, which will give you a 2.5% voltage drop with 11 amps, or about 13.65 volts.
As furpod said, in addition to running a larger charge line one of the best things you can do is just run the fridge on gas mode. Only with those 2 steps can you be sure your battery will charge on the road.
Also see the link in my signature for more info.