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Topic ClosedKeeping refrigarator cold while driving - Event Date: 26 Jul 2014

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hogone View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: Keeping refrigarator cold while driving
    Posted: 24 Sep 2014 at 6:17am
a while back (last year) i noticed that my fridge was not as cold as normal (it was on battery on the coldest setting).  i cycled thru the temp settings a few times back to the coldest.  world of difference.  i do that everytime i turn my fridge on now.  hogone
Jon & Pam
2013 RP177
2010 F150
2017 HD Streetglide
2009 HD Lowrider
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2014 at 11:38pm
My TV is an F150 with a tow package and the fridge stays cold on 12V whether on the road, or when I'm parked with it plugged in and AC charging the battery.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2014 at 10:05pm
Welcome.  At 12 volts voltage drop is a big problem, so every foot of larger wire (less resistance) is a bonus.

Technically you should have a fuse near the battery that will blow before the wire burns up.  That said, my GM's factory 12 gauge line has a 40 amp fuse on the end.  I don't know how they justify that.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2014 at 9:48pm
Help me understand the physics of running anything larger than 10 gauge wire to the 7-pin?  I ask because the trailer wiring charge line is probably not larger than 10 gauge (that's the largest I've seen in any installation, but I'll admit I don't know what FR put in the R-Pod). 

In other words, if you run 6 gauge in the TV, but the TT has 10 gauge, does it do any good?

On a semi-related note: if the fridge and battery charging are drawing more amperage than the 10 gauge can provide, do you run the risk of overheating the wire?

On a semi-semi-related note: my TV has solid-core 10 gauge copper to the 7-pin, I understand this can carry higher amperage (and heat) than stranded and may be comparable to 8 gauge stranded copper (or stranded copper-coated aluminum)

Thanks
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2014 at 7:05pm
I see you are about four or five hours from us, but we bought our pod last summer at Boat N RV, Rockwood TN, I believe Exit 388 off I-40 going toward Knoxville. They sell the pods and are a Forest River Dealer. We had warranty work performed last month and service was excellent. They have a nice waiting area, and there is a restaurant/bar attached to the facility.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2014 at 6:07pm
It may take some time to find one, but they are out there.  They get paid for warranty work so you just need to find the one that has time on his schedule and wants the $.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2014 at 5:42pm
Thanks all, I will make sure my DH sees the posts!  Unfortunately we got the pod in NC because no one closer had that model on the lot and it was the best deal (super in fact) at that distance (Michigan was the only other one).  I will have to contact the Louisville dealers to see if they will work with us.  
Larry, Erin, Lindsay, Caitlyn and Jules the lab
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2014 at 2:23pm
Oddpod, you should really have someone look at your fridge.

My (five year old) r-pod is kept in a storage lot without power, so I don't have the luxury of being able to precool the fridge before heading out.  I'll just bring a fridge and freezer full of cold/frozen food to the trailer, load it up, turn on the propane and head out.  With a fridge full of food, it cools down very quickly  (much more quickly than when empty).  So quickly, in fact, that ice cream (or even runnier frozen yogurt) doesn't have a chance to soften up.
Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2014 at 1:08pm
Not too old, the last post was less than 2 weeks ago.  We like to recycle electrons around here anyway.  Big smile
 
If your fridge is still under warranty, get it fixed.  It should cool down within hours (assuming you don't put warm drinks in it) and have no problems keeping things cool.  If you aren't within warranty, things could get very expensive.  I'm having problems only with the gas mode on mine, and the dealer said the 8501 model used in the pods is an import - and parts are only imported.  He thinks my gas valve is bad and instead of costing $69, it will cost over $400.  I can buy a new domestically-sourced fridge for $600!  Or one of these Indel portable fridges for less.
 
Driving while using the propane mode is perfectly safe.  You are correct you'll have problems using the DC mode unless the wiring feeding your 7-pin Bargeman is large enough.  I finally checked out the factory wiring on my Chevy and it is 12 gauge, which is too small.  I just added a 10 gauge which effectively gives me 8 gauge (using the 12 and 10 in parallel).  If this is a job you can't do, any local mechanic should be able to do it in a half hour.
 
The portable fridges like the ARB and Indel should last 24 hours or more on a deep cycle battery, closer to 55 hours with two batteries in parallel.  So if you can recharge from utility power, a generator, or from your TV in that time frame a solar system may not be necessary.  A 2nd battery is a lot cheaper too.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2014 at 12:32pm
Sorry, I guess this thread is not so old....I must have been looking at someone's join date.  Still, has anyone gotten any of these products since the last post?  Has anyone hooked up a truck fridge to solar panels via marine battery/battery minder setup for dry camping as a backup system?
Larry, Erin, Lindsay, Caitlyn and Jules the lab
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