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Topic ClosedRefrigerator Replacement? - Event Date: 01 May 2017
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Craneman View Drop Down
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Posts: 387 		Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: Refrigerator Replacement?
    Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 9:08pm
Originally posted by marwayne


At the very top of the red arrow you can see a little shiny spot, that is the orifice. I use a tiny brass gun barrel brush and push it through the hole, but be careful the orifice is a very thin metal membrane, the hole size in it is like the tip of a needle.
       Be very carefull cleaning your orifice, I read somewhere when I was fighting this thing ,that use only 
Low pressure air and alcohol to clean it no tip cleaners. I researched this a lot and trying to find all the stuff I printed
Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150

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marwayne View Drop Down
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Posts: 1002 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 10:17pm
It works for me just fine, but I am very careful with what I'm doing.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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fwunder View Drop Down
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Posts: 1676 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2017 at 7:20am
Like marwayne, I've had to do this twice so far. Probably some contaminants in my propane. I now carry a small squirt bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

I removed propane tube and burner assembly, squirted alcohol thru tube a few times, let dry and reassembled, checking for leaks. Nice bright blue flame reappeared - that I could hear! Fridge works great again.
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Kidhammon View Drop Down
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Posts: 7 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 1:24pm
When I took the burner apart and soaked it in alcohol I also blew through the pipe and the alcohol bubbled so it isn't blocked.  Also, when it first tries to start it burns with a good blue flame for a couple of seconds then goes out.  This happens all three times it tries and then gives up and the red light flashes.
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Posts: 1002 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 3:49pm
If the HWT lights that tells me the system is working, but than it goes out telling me there is not sufficient gas flow to the burner. Again clean the orifice, air wont do it. The diameter of the hole in the orifice is about 0.023", that is the tip of a pin.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 4:11pm
It might help to put a voltmeter on the gas control valve. It will show 12VDC when gas is flowing. If voltage remains as the flame goes out it indicates a gas flow/impediment problem. If the voltage falls coincident with the flame going out it indicates a control problem like thermocouple or control board.
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Craneman View Drop Down
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Posts: 387 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 4:34pm
Kid,
I went out and tried mine just one more time,have not tried it since the tech worked on it. I turned on the gas and bled the lines then turned the fridge on gas, I heard the first attempt and failed to light, so waited for the second attempt and when it did Caboom ,fire and smoke out through the electrical panel be low the fridge. Wow scared the heck out of me. No apperant damage . Be carefull playing with that gas. I plugged the line off at the fridge.
                                       Moe
Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150

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Kidhammon View Drop Down
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Posts: 7 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 7:03pm
Moe  --

Be careful out there! I took the burner apart yet again and tried to see if the jet was clogged.  I couldn't get anything small enough to go through it but if you blow on it a tiny amount of air gets through.  I'm guessing that's all it takes for the gas so I'm thinking my problem is probably either the valve or the electrical "brains" box have gone bad.

Kid
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