Refrigerator Replacement?
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Printed Date: 05 May 2024 at 7:12pm
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Topic: Refrigerator Replacement?
Posted By: Kidhammon
Subject: Refrigerator Replacement?
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 4:09pm
| I have a 2011 181G and the Dometic 8501 refer won't run on gas. It comes on for a few seconds then goes out. I've had it looked at by a couple of "technicians" but so far nobody can make it work. The next option is to shell out $550 for a new electrical box which may or may not solve the problem. At this point I think I would be best served with a new refer instead. Domestic doesn't seem to make that particular model any more and I can't find the same size anywhere. Has anyone replaced their refrigerator with another brand and/or model? |
Replies:
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 4:43pm
|
There are lots of things to check before buying a new board. Check and clean the burner and chimney. Check the voltage to the gas control valve. Check and/or replace the thermocouple. You may need a real service person but it might be worth it.
------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 5:14pm
|
Do like CharlieM said, but also clean the orifice
and the thermocouple. ? did you by any chance get an exchange bottle of propane?
------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Kidhammon
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 5:24pm
| I checked and cleaned the burner and chimney. The flame burns blue and clear for just a couple of seconds then goes out. |
Posted By: Kidhammon
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 5:25pm
| The techie that came out said I had a bad LP regulator valve that was providing too low of pressure and that's why the flame started then went out. $200 later and a new valve and the exact same problem remains. I do have a new regulator valve tho. |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 6:48pm
|
I haven't looked at this on my refrigerator, but I have a heater that has acted like that before. The problem was that the tube that the flame the heats the thermocouple was slightly clogged. Dust or cobwebs or something. Clean it out with a qtip and/or canned air. Again, I'm not sure this really correlates to the fridge since it doesn't have a pilot flame. Does it even have a thermocouple? TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 6:50pm
|
I had the same problem after I used an exchange tank, plugged the orifice, cleaned orifice everything was fine. I also had the problem with my house furnace Talked to a furnace tech friend, he replied I shouldn't tell you this clean the orifice. And all was well.
------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Kidhammon
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 7:04pm
| I took the burner apart and soaked it in alcohol for 15 minutes and it looks like it's new. I don't think a clogged burner is the problem. |
Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 7:23pm
|
I have the same problem, 3 1/2 weeks and a lot of money at a factory certified repair tec. Replaced almost every thing, I told they I was not paying them to jus replace parts, their recommendation junk it and replace it.parts are very hard to get. Right now I just cap off the gas line in the rear compartment we mostly stay in full hook up. I Calle several rv repair shops and no one,I mean no one had anything good to say about that model Moe ------------- Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150 
Jo and Gary 2010 174 2011 Ford 150 |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 8:42pm
|
https://postimg.org/image/sukead9pr/">  https://postimage.org/ - online photo storage
At the very top of the red arrow you can see a little shiny spot, that is the orifice. I use a tiny brass gun barrel brush and push it through the hole, but be careful the orifice is a very thin metal membrane, the hole size in it is like the tip of a needle.
------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 9:08pm
Be very carefull cleaning your orifice, I read somewhere when I was fighting this thing ,that use only Low pressure air and alcohol to clean it no tip cleaners. I researched this a lot and trying to find all the stuff I printed ------------- Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150
Jo and Gary 2010 174 2011 Ford 150 |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2017 at 10:17pm
|
It works for me just fine, but I am very careful with what I'm doing.
------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: fwunder
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2017 at 7:20am
|
Like marwayne, I've had to do this twice so far. Probably some contaminants in my propane. I now carry a small squirt bottle of isopropyl alcohol. I removed propane tube and burner assembly, squirted alcohol thru tube a few times, let dry and reassembled, checking for leaks. Nice bright blue flame reappeared - that I could hear! Fridge works great again.   ------------- 2014 RPod 178 => https://goo.gl/CV446f - MyMods and Buying Habits 2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6 Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks! |
Posted By: Kidhammon
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 1:24pm
| When I took the burner apart and soaked it in alcohol I also blew through the pipe and the alcohol bubbled so it isn't blocked. Also, when it first tries to start it burns with a good blue flame for a couple of seconds then goes out. This happens all three times it tries and then gives up and the red light flashes. |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 3:49pm
|
If the HWT lights that tells me the system is working, but than it goes out telling me there is not sufficient gas flow to the burner. Again clean the orifice, air wont do it. The diameter of the hole in the orifice is about 0.023", that is the tip of a pin.
------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 4:11pm
|
It might help to put a voltmeter on the gas control valve. It will show 12VDC when gas is flowing. If voltage remains as the flame goes out it indicates a gas flow/impediment problem. If the voltage falls coincident with the flame going out it indicates a control problem like thermocouple or control board. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 4:34pm
|
Kid, I went out and tried mine just one more time,have not tried it since the tech worked on it. I turned on the gas and bled the lines then turned the fridge on gas, I heard the first attempt and failed to light, so waited for the second attempt and when it did Caboom ,fire and smoke out through the electrical panel be low the fridge. Wow scared the heck out of me. No apperant damage . Be carefull playing with that gas. I plugged the line off at the fridge. Moe
------------- Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150
Jo and Gary 2010 174 2011 Ford 150 |
Posted By: Kidhammon
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2017 at 7:03pm
|
Moe -- Be careful out there! I took the burner apart yet again and tried to see if the jet was clogged. I couldn't get anything small enough to go through it but if you blow on it a tiny amount of air gets through. I'm guessing that's all it takes for the gas so I'm thinking my problem is probably either the valve or the electrical "brains" box have gone bad. Kid |