2013 R-Pod furnace problem? - R-pod Owners Forum

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ToolmanJohn View Drop Down

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Joined: 23 Apr 2014
Location: Connecticut
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Topic: 2013 R-Pod furnace problem?
Posted: 25 Feb 2017 at 7:01pm

Well of course this happens. I am trying to sell my R-Pod and now that we are having what seems like an absurd early Spring, I am getting a few calls about my Pod. That's great.

Today, I put propane on the Pod, cleaned it out, and tested all the appliances (except the Hot water heater, and the water system which is winterized). I am plugged into 120VAC shore power, no batteries on board, they are resting comfortably in the basement.

Everything worked just as it should. I leave the fridge in propane mode and let it run. Oven burners no problem, Furnace starts and makes heat too.

A few hours go by and the person interested shows up. We go around the camper, go inside, I start turning things on. Everything works, except....

The furnace will not start. I set the thermostat to 80°F, fan is in Au (AUTO), but it will not turn on. All I get is a "click" from the furnace itself. Shut of the thermostat, try again."click"..

No fan, no nothing. I checked the fuse (7.5 amp) it is fine. Well... Stumped.. Could the thermostat have gone bad? I don't have the manual handy for troubleshooting but I figure it will say "call a dealer". Started to go down the YouTube superhighway of DIY, but changed my mind and came here for some expert knowledge.

2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler
2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD)
2013 VW Touareg TDI

Podster

Senior Member

Joined: 16 Sep 2014
Location: San Antonio
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Posts: 1108

Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 6:50am

Check to make sure that you have good power and ground where it should be.

My guess is you lost a power or ground connection. POD owners have seen failed crimp camp connections on the PODS. I had some myself.

Check the power and ground wires for continuity from the panel to the the controls. Make sure the power is off and you are completely disconnected before you do continuity checks. Including battery power.

There are several components that can prevent the blower from operating properly. You'll have to start trouble shooting each one. But first, look for the obvious. Check all the wires, make sure all the connections are tight and not corroded.

If all the wire feed checkout go to component level trouble shooting.

The blower motor fail to start can be caused by low voltage: a failed DSI control board, failed thermostat control, failed sail switch, failed time start delay relay switch, maybe even a failed high limit switch, and anything in between.

Good luck Sir,

Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)

ToolmanJohn View Drop Down

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Joined: 23 Apr 2014
Location: Connecticut
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Posts: 451

Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 9:30am

Well.. I have more diagnostic results.

I plugged in the camper again this morning (it was left disconnected from power all night, no batteries). BTW the DC voltage out of the converter is 13.76 volts.

The furnace fan blows, normal whoosh noises, and it starts making heat.. OK??..WHAT??? So anyway, I left it on and got together some tools for another project.

About 15 minutes later, I'm back in the camper, and the furnace fan is running very SLOW, and making no heat anymore. I think it's maybe cooling down? But the fan is running very SLOW, not like normal, it has only one fan speed.

I shut it off at the thermostat, and 10 seconds later it stops. I try turning it back on a few minutes later, and it is doing the exact same thing as yesterday."click"..No fan, no heat, no run...

I am now wondering if it could be mechanical, bearing corrosion on the fan shaft? I guess I'll have to pull the mattress, and start removing things to investigate.

I think it's a Suburban NT-20 SEQ, but I'm not certain of this. I can't find the owners manuals, I put them away to well and can't locate them. But I think once I get access to the furnace, I'll find a name plate with a model and start looking at DIY YouTube videos to see how to take it apart and check. Maybe, I'll find bad wiring along the way.

I wonder which of those components you mentioned Podster could cause these symptoms. I have looked online a fair bit yesterday and this morning but couldn't find a troubleshooting chart that explains the start, then slow down, then no start situation, which is why I'm wondering if it could be a bearing failure in the fan shaft. Fan turns when dead cold, but binds when getting hot??? I dunno. Annoying, because I'm want to sell the Pod in great shape for the next owner.

2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler
2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD)
2013 VW Touareg TDI

CharlieM

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Joined: 23 Nov 2012
Location: N. Colorado
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Posts: 1797

Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:12am

Sure sounds like a motor speed problem A slow fan will cause the air flow sensor to open and shut off the burner. DC motors run slow for two reasons: low voltage or mechanical restrictions. A bad electrical connection could cause that but probably not be run time dependent. It’s either there or not there. A bad electronic part on the control board could be time/temperature dependent but I think the blower control is a relay which is mechanical, causes a click, either makes contact or doesn’t, and is not time/temperature dependent. I’m leaning toward unlubricated bearings. The solution will be to get in and put a voltmeter right on the blower. That will tell you if it’s electrical or mechanical.

BTW, don't trust a voltmeter on the converter output without a battery connected. The converter output is unfiltered and may cause a voltmeter to read erroneously due to ripple. Things like fans and lights don't care but electronics do. The battery acts as a giant capacitor to clean up the DC.

Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

ToolmanJohn View Drop Down

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Joined: 23 Apr 2014
Location: Connecticut
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Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:36am

There haven't been batteries in it since last October when I Winterized. Batteries are int he basement.

13.70 volts from the converter, no change in voltage when trying to start the furnace.

Now this is why I think it is likely mechanical. I tried to turn it on again. I got the small "click" which is probably the fan relay turning on, but no fan movement. So I hit the furnace housing, why not.. It starts running for about 5 seconds and stops. I continued hitting the housing but it would not move again after that. IS it possible the sail switch is bad? Could the sail switch be causing this behavior?

I don't know how to open it up all the way to inspect it yet.

I have pictures of the unit and it is in fact a NT-20SEQ furnace. I have taken a picture of the label.

Input 19,000 BTU/hr. Output 14,400 BTU/hr I don't have a free picture hosting site yet. I'll have to look into it.

2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler
2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD)
2013 VW Touareg TDI

CharlieM

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Joined: 23 Nov 2012
Location: N. Colorado
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Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:46am

My point on the voltmeter on the converter output is that the meter may not be accurate. Has to do with engineer speak like peak-to-average ratio and how the meter responds to it. The sail switch controls gas flow to the burner, not the blower itself. If the blower does not come up to speed the sail switch will not allow the burner to light. Your standard "tap" test seems to prove a mechanical problem.

If you can get to the bearings try some WD40. If that frees things up go back and add lubricant. WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.

Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

ToolmanJohn View Drop Down

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Joined: 23 Apr 2014
Location: Connecticut
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Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:55am

I found a manual that details troubleshooting. It's mostly about voltages, but I'll likely have to disconnect power and the gas line and remove the unit. It doesn't look like it's serviceable in place. A new one is close to $500. Maybe I can find a replacement motor/blower if that is the problem

2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler
2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD)
2013 VW Touareg TDI

ToolmanJohn View Drop Down

Senior Member

Joined: 23 Apr 2014
Location: Connecticut
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 451

Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 2:13pm

Alrighty then!!! Furnace removal is easy, but only after you have done it the hard way ha ha. I wish I had a was to post pictures. I have them and it would be better, but I will explain as clear as possible where things are. If I had done it in the following order, it would have taken less than 20 minutes. Never mind the extra steps I took, I won't go into it.

After having full access (mattress out, plywood panel out), gas supply off (I ran the stove top burner and shut of the gas so it would be pretty well purged), not plugged in no battery, no voltage.

1) I removed the front metal furnace grill, 2 screws (Phillips)

2) Bottom right side, Using TWO wrenches, grasp the gas supply tube with one adjustable wrench, and loosen the gas supply nut. You must hold onto the gas supply tube so nothing gets bent when loosening the nut.

3) I moved the gas supply line out of the furnace access hole. Be aware there are 4 wires entering that same right side, they will have to be disconnected after sliding the furnace out almost all the way, it won't come fully out until they are disconnected.

4) I removed 2 small screws on the bottom AND right side of the furnace, NOT the two on the bottom of the metal housing that fasten the housing to the wood framework. They are small sheet metal screws and after they have been taken out, SLIDE the entire furnace out through the front. Yeah the whole thing slides out INTO the R-Pod, ALMOST all the way, the wire connections will prevent it. The combustion intake and exhaust are not fastened to the exit pipes, they just slide out, leaving behind the exterior vent tubes. Neat.

5) Now I had to break 4 wire connections, I took pictures and drew a diagram as well so I will remember when I put it back in. There are two 12 volt DC supply wires, and two thermostat wires. I squeezed the crimp butt splice terminators to disconnect the wires without cutting them. I'll use the same type connectors when I reassemble.

6) That's it, it's out complete. Sitting on the kitchen table (much easier to work on than inside the Pod.

I removed the rear intake plastic shroud assembly (11 screws) covering the squirrel cage blower fan, then loosened a setscrew to remove the fan from the motor shaft. This exposed two motor nuts.

Then I could not get the motor out, the interior blower fan is too big to take the motor out that way.

I had to remove 4 more screws holding the back side of the plastic fan shroud from the metal brackets they're screwed to, then it comes off, and the motor can be taken out.

The motor has 2 wire, black (ground) and red (+12VDC), they are connected to a ground bus and the furnace control board respectively. it is also double shafted. each end has a shaft, as there are 2 separate fans.

I cut of the motor connectors to gain access to the bare wires, then held them to the 12V battery (int he basement).. The damn motor is FINE. It's VERY quiet without the fans, and near silent. It turns on and off easily . I guess it is NOT the motor. I am now thinking the darn board is failing

There seem to be several relays on the furnace board itself. They are soldered on (of course not easily replaceable). I tested the sail switch. It checks good, even though it can't be the problem, the fan is supposed to turn on before that sail switch activates.

Looks like I'll be ordering the board from a local RV dealer.

2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler
2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD)
2013 VW Touareg TDI

StephenH

podders Helping podders - pHp

Joined: 29 Nov 2015
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 6288

Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 2:20pm

I think that before I went through all of that, I would have installed the battery (or batteries in the case of dual 6V) and tried it that way. I got a cheap Everstart U1 12V yard tractor battery from Wal-Mart to put on the tongue of our R-Pod while I am preparing it to go to the factory for repairs. My dual 6V batteries have been removed since I would not want to ship them off. The little 12V battery ensures that the break-away switch will work. I wouldn't want to camp with it, but it would be adequate to smooth the 12V power to test whether it is indeed a furnace problem and not the converter unstable 12V power.
Edit: I did try the furnace with this battery installed and it does work. It would not do for dry camping, but for what I need at the moment, it is adequate.

StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS

ToolmanJohn View Drop Down

Senior Member

Joined: 23 Apr 2014
Location: Connecticut
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 451

Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 3:10pm

I'm going to reconnect the furnace, without the gas supply, and try installing a 12 volt battery. I am curious now. I have checked teh control board, and the motor relay (Zettler AZ2150-1A-9DEF) is working OK. I cycled it with my bench power supply and it does work, relay is strong and fine. So far, MOTOR seems OK, board relay closes with 12 VDC . Intermittent motor, weak running motor. Well I have to try with battery power instead of shore power. Jeepers.... At least I have not ordered parts. I hate it when that happens.

2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler
2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD)
2013 VW Touareg TDI

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ToolmanJohn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Location: Connecticut Online Status: Offline Posts: 451	Topic: 2013 R-Pod furnace problem? Posted: 25 Feb 2017 at 7:01pm
	Well of course this happens. I am trying to sell my R-Pod and now that we are having what seems like an absurd early Spring, I am getting a few calls about my Pod. That's great. Today, I put propane on the Pod, cleaned it out, and tested all the appliances (except the Hot water heater, and the water system which is winterized). I am plugged into 120VAC shore power, no batteries on board, they are resting comfortably in the basement. Everything worked just as it should. I leave the fridge in propane mode and let it run. Oven burners no problem, Furnace starts and makes heat too. A few hours go by and the person interested shows up. We go around the camper, go inside, I start turning things on. Everything works, except.... The furnace will not start. I set the thermostat to 80°F, fan is in Au (AUTO), but it will not turn on. All I get is a "click" from the furnace itself. Shut of the thermostat, try again."click".. No fan, no nothing. I checked the fuse (7.5 amp) it is fine. Well... Stumped.. Could the thermostat have gone bad? I don't have the manual handy for troubleshooting but I figure it will say "call a dealer". Started to go down the YouTube superhighway of DIY, but changed my mind and came here for some expert knowledge.
	2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler 2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD) 2013 VW Touareg TDI

Podster Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 16 Sep 2014 Location: San Antonio Online Status: Offline Posts: 1108	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 6:50am
	Check to make sure that you have good power and ground where it should be. My guess is you lost a power or ground connection. POD owners have seen failed crimp camp connections on the PODS. I had some myself. Check the power and ground wires for continuity from the panel to the the controls. Make sure the power is off and you are completely disconnected before you do continuity checks. Including battery power. There are several components that can prevent the blower from operating properly. You'll have to start trouble shooting each one. But first, look for the obvious. Check all the wires, make sure all the connections are tight and not corroded. If all the wire feed checkout go to component level trouble shooting. The blower motor fail to start can be caused by low voltage: a failed DSI control board, failed thermostat control, failed sail switch, failed time start delay relay switch, maybe even a failed high limit switch, and anything in between. Good luck Sir,
	Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)

ToolmanJohn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Location: Connecticut Online Status: Offline Posts: 451	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 9:30am
	Well.. I have more diagnostic results. I plugged in the camper again this morning (it was left disconnected from power all night, no batteries). BTW the DC voltage out of the converter is 13.76 volts. The furnace fan blows, normal whoosh noises, and it starts making heat.. OK??..WHAT??? So anyway, I left it on and got together some tools for another project. About 15 minutes later, I'm back in the camper, and the furnace fan is running very SLOW, and making no heat anymore. I think it's maybe cooling down? But the fan is running very SLOW, not like normal, it has only one fan speed. I shut it off at the thermostat, and 10 seconds later it stops. I try turning it back on a few minutes later, and it is doing the exact same thing as yesterday."click"..No fan, no heat, no run... I am now wondering if it could be mechanical, bearing corrosion on the fan shaft? I guess I'll have to pull the mattress, and start removing things to investigate. I think it's a Suburban NT-20 SEQ, but I'm not certain of this. I can't find the owners manuals, I put them away to well and can't locate them. But I think once I get access to the furnace, I'll find a name plate with a model and start looking at DIY YouTube videos to see how to take it apart and check. Maybe, I'll find bad wiring along the way. I wonder which of those components you mentioned Podster could cause these symptoms. I have looked online a fair bit yesterday and this morning but couldn't find a troubleshooting chart that explains the start, then slow down, then no start situation, which is why I'm wondering if it could be a bearing failure in the fan shaft. Fan turns when dead cold, but binds when getting hot??? I dunno. Annoying, because I'm want to sell the Pod in great shape for the next owner.
	2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler 2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD) 2013 VW Touareg TDI

CharlieM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:12am
	Sure sounds like a motor speed problem A slow fan will cause the air flow sensor to open and shut off the burner. DC motors run slow for two reasons: low voltage or mechanical restrictions. A bad electrical connection could cause that but probably not be run time dependent. It’s either there or not there. A bad electronic part on the control board could be time/temperature dependent but I think the blower control is a relay which is mechanical, causes a click, either makes contact or doesn’t, and is not time/temperature dependent. I’m leaning toward unlubricated bearings. The solution will be to get in and put a voltmeter right on the blower. That will tell you if it’s electrical or mechanical. BTW, don't trust a voltmeter on the converter output without a battery connected. The converter output is unfiltered and may cause a voltmeter to read erroneously due to ripple. Things like fans and lights don't care but electronics do. The battery acts as a giant capacitor to clean up the DC.
	Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

ToolmanJohn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Location: Connecticut Online Status: Offline Posts: 451	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:36am
	There haven't been batteries in it since last October when I Winterized. Batteries are int he basement. 13.70 volts from the converter, no change in voltage when trying to start the furnace. Now this is why I think it is likely mechanical. I tried to turn it on again. I got the small "click" which is probably the fan relay turning on, but no fan movement. So I hit the furnace housing, why not.. It starts running for about 5 seconds and stops. I continued hitting the housing but it would not move again after that. IS it possible the sail switch is bad? Could the sail switch be causing this behavior? I don't know how to open it up all the way to inspect it yet. I have pictures of the unit and it is in fact a NT-20SEQ furnace. I have taken a picture of the label. Input 19,000 BTU/hr. Output 14,400 BTU/hr I don't have a free picture hosting site yet. I'll have to look into it.
	2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler 2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD) 2013 VW Touareg TDI

CharlieM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:46am
	My point on the voltmeter on the converter output is that the meter may not be accurate. Has to do with engineer speak like peak-to-average ratio and how the meter responds to it. The sail switch controls gas flow to the burner, not the blower itself. If the blower does not come up to speed the sail switch will not allow the burner to light. Your standard "tap" test seems to prove a mechanical problem. If you can get to the bearings try some WD40. If that frees things up go back and add lubricant. WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.
	Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

ToolmanJohn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Location: Connecticut Online Status: Offline Posts: 451	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:55am
	I found a manual that details troubleshooting. It's mostly about voltages, but I'll likely have to disconnect power and the gas line and remove the unit. It doesn't look like it's serviceable in place. A new one is close to $500. Maybe I can find a replacement motor/blower if that is the problem
	2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler 2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD) 2013 VW Touareg TDI

ToolmanJohn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Location: Connecticut Online Status: Offline Posts: 451	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 2:13pm
	Alrighty then!!! Furnace removal is easy, but only after you have done it the hard way ha ha. I wish I had a was to post pictures. I have them and it would be better, but I will explain as clear as possible where things are. If I had done it in the following order, it would have taken less than 20 minutes. Never mind the extra steps I took, I won't go into it. After having full access (mattress out, plywood panel out), gas supply off (I ran the stove top burner and shut of the gas so it would be pretty well purged), not plugged in no battery, no voltage. 1) I removed the front metal furnace grill, 2 screws (Phillips) 2) Bottom right side, Using TWO wrenches, grasp the gas supply tube with one adjustable wrench, and loosen the gas supply nut. You must hold onto the gas supply tube so nothing gets bent when loosening the nut. 3) I moved the gas supply line out of the furnace access hole. Be aware there are 4 wires entering that same right side, they will have to be disconnected after sliding the furnace out almost all the way, it won't come fully out until they are disconnected. 4) I removed 2 small screws on the bottom AND right side of the furnace, NOT the two on the bottom of the metal housing that fasten the housing to the wood framework. They are small sheet metal screws and after they have been taken out, SLIDE the entire furnace out through the front. Yeah the whole thing slides out INTO the R-Pod, ALMOST all the way, the wire connections will prevent it. The combustion intake and exhaust are not fastened to the exit pipes, they just slide out, leaving behind the exterior vent tubes. Neat. 5) Now I had to break 4 wire connections, I took pictures and drew a diagram as well so I will remember when I put it back in. There are two 12 volt DC supply wires, and two thermostat wires. I squeezed the crimp butt splice terminators to disconnect the wires without cutting them. I'll use the same type connectors when I reassemble. 6) That's it, it's out complete. Sitting on the kitchen table (much easier to work on than inside the Pod. I removed the rear intake plastic shroud assembly (11 screws) covering the squirrel cage blower fan, then loosened a setscrew to remove the fan from the motor shaft. This exposed two motor nuts. Then I could not get the motor out, the interior blower fan is too big to take the motor out that way. I had to remove 4 more screws holding the back side of the plastic fan shroud from the metal brackets they're screwed to, then it comes off, and the motor can be taken out. The motor has 2 wire, black (ground) and red (+12VDC), they are connected to a ground bus and the furnace control board respectively. it is also double shafted. each end has a shaft, as there are 2 separate fans. I cut of the motor connectors to gain access to the bare wires, then held them to the 12V battery (int he basement).. The damn motor is FINE. It's VERY quiet without the fans, and near silent. It turns on and off easily . I guess it is NOT the motor. I am now thinking the darn board is failing There seem to be several relays on the furnace board itself. They are soldered on (of course not easily replaceable). I tested the sail switch. It checks good, even though it can't be the problem, the fan is supposed to turn on before that sail switch activates. Looks like I'll be ordering the board from a local RV dealer.
	2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler 2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD) 2013 VW Touareg TDI

StephenH Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6288	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 2:20pm
	I think that before I went through all of that, I would have installed the battery (or batteries in the case of dual 6V) and tried it that way. I got a cheap Everstart U1 12V yard tractor battery from Wal-Mart to put on the tongue of our R-Pod while I am preparing it to go to the factory for repairs. My dual 6V batteries have been removed since I would not want to ship them off. The little 12V battery ensures that the break-away switch will work. I wouldn't want to camp with it, but it would be adequate to smooth the 12V power to test whether it is indeed a furnace problem and not the converter unstable 12V power. Edit: I did try the furnace with this battery installed and it does work. It would not do for dry camping, but for what I need at the moment, it is adequate.
	StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS

ToolmanJohn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Location: Connecticut Online Status: Offline Posts: 451	Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 3:10pm
	I'm going to reconnect the furnace, without the gas supply, and try installing a 12 volt battery. I am curious now. I have checked teh control board, and the motor relay (Zettler AZ2150-1A-9DEF) is working OK. I cycled it with my bench power supply and it does work, relay is strong and fine. So far, MOTOR seems OK, board relay closes with 12 VDC . Intermittent motor, weak running motor. Well I have to try with battery power instead of shore power. Jeepers.... At least I have not ordered parts. I hate it when that happens.
	2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler 2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD) 2013 VW Touareg TDI