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Topic ClosedWinterization

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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterization
    Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 5:52am
A couple of additional things I do are:
 
1.  Remove the main 12v battery(s) and box(es) and store them inside the heated garage - after making sure it/they are fully charged.  NOTE: be sure you are unplugged from shore power and that all circuit breakers are turned off, prior to doing this. 
 
2.  Wrap the battery connectors with several twists of black tape and tuck them under the camper, out of the weather.  They always have a coating of dielectric grease on them, also, from when I cleaned and connected them in the Spring.
 
3. Put the end of the 7 prong Bargman connector in a small plastic bag and tape/seal it shut, also tucking it up and out of the weather.  It also has some dielectric grease on the pins to prevent corrosion.  I'm told that trying to clean corrosion out of the pins can be a real pain Embarrassed.  It is also good to make sure the TV connector has a good coating also...use a q-tip.
 
4.  Remove the 9v batteries from the smoke detector and carbon monoxide (CO) detector.  I leave them open and "hanging": to remind myself to install new batteries in the spring.
 
5.  Make sure the door on the fridge is propped open a tad to prevent mildew.
 
6.  Tire covers are a good investment year round.
 
7.  Make sure the propane tank(s) are fully off.  If not already covered, cover them with the tank cover, along with the regulator.
 
NOTE: You should not tow your camper if you do the above.  With no battery in place, the break away safety brakes on the trailer will NOT work.  If you plan to do winter camping either re-install the battery(s) or do not remove it as mentioned in #1 and #2.
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TIDALWAVE View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2010 at 12:27pm
You may also wish to store your Pod wheels on a some strips of plastic vinyl.  A friend of mine in the tire business stated that the second worst environmental effect on tires (after UV-sunlight) was allowing long-term moisture contact under rubber tires.  Even a concrete floor will transfer moisture up to the tires if it can.  I store my Pod in a concrete floored machine shed.  The concrete was 'sealed' and cured for four years.  I accidentally left a piece of plastic sheeting on the floor.  After about a month of fall storage, I picked up the plastic and found water actually dripping from the bottom.
I believe that letting the Pod tires sit directly on gravel, dirt, or grass would be even worse.
From that time on, I have made it a habit to make certain that all of my trailer tires have a vinyl strip under the wheels.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2010 at 1:28pm
Originally posted by TIDALWAVE

You may also wish to store your Pod wheels on a some strips of plastic vinyl.  A friend of mine in the tire business stated that the second worst environmental effect on tires (after UV-sunlight) was allowing long-term moisture contact under rubber tires.  Even a concrete floor will transfer moisture up to the tires if it can.  I store my Pod in a concrete floored machine shed.  The concrete was 'sealed' and cured for four years.  I accidentally left a piece of plastic sheeting on the floor.  After about a month of fall storage, I picked up the plastic and found water actually dripping from the bottom.
I believe that letting the Pod tires sit directly on gravel, dirt, or grass would be even worse.
From that time on, I have made it a habit to make certain that all of my trailer tires have a vinyl strip under the wheels.
I know what you say is true because I have seem with my own eyes.  This had never occurred to me.  It sounds like placing one of my Lynx leveler blocks under each tire might do the trick.  It's on my list of things to do.  Thanks!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2010 at 2:56pm

David, 3-7 are great ideas.  Funny that you leave the alarm covers dangling, I did that last year for the same reason.

However, I recommend charging the battery fully and leaving it outside or somewhere else where it will stay cold.  One of the interesting properties of lead acid batteries is their life is extended when they are kept cold (and it is reduced sitting in the hot sun in the summer).  Also, their self-discharge rate is reduced when they are cold so you don't have to charge them as often.  In the summer you need to recharge at least once a month, but in the winter - if the battery is left where it will stay cold - you only need to recharge every couple of months.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 4:01am
I just knew you were going to get me on that LOL !  I almost titled the post in bold "everybody except techntrek (and a couple of others) please read.
 
Agree and I know you know of what you speak and will very likely maintain your battery(s) properly.  However, when considering all the scenarios that might occur with the different owners, I tried to come up with something that would do the least harm to the battery(s).
 
Worst case - a person just leaves the battery connected for the winter and does nothing.  Between the parasitic loads and the normal 10-20% drop per month, by late Jan. or Feb. the battery would likely be in a severe discharge.  Due to the chemical processes that take place to produce electricity in the battery, the more it becomes discharged, the more likely it is to freeze, as you know.  While a fully charged battery may not freeze until 60-70 below zero F, a severly discharged battery can freeze at approx. 32F and physically damage the battery.
 
*****************************************************************************

Temperature

As well as affecting self discharge rates, temperature affects battery performance in other ways. The optimum performance temperature range for batteries is 60 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit. At these temperatures, the battery will perform at 100% of its rated capacity. As temperatures drop, battery longevity increases, but performance drops. The battery goes into a state of partial "suspended animation" and only some of it’s potential power is available. You may have experienced this while starting your car in cold weather. (unless you are fortunate enough to live where there is no such thing as cold weather.) For example, at freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit) some 65% of battery capacity can be utilized, but at zero only 40 percent is available.

Freezing

Freezing of batteries is a major concern of northern climate inhabitants. A fully charged battery typically will not freeze down to 70 to 90 degrees below zero, while a fully discharged battery is susceptible to freezing at +32 degrees. This is because of the chemical process which creates electricity in a battery. As a battery becomes discharged, the sulfuric acid in the electrolyte gradually bonds to the lead oxide in the battery plates. As this process continues, the electrolyte becomes less and less concentrated, until finally it is (theoretically but I wouldn’t drink it) pure water. Since water freezes at +32 F, the dead battery will then freeze at this temperature. Damage caused by freezing is mostly mechanical, I.E. the bursting of cases, plate breakage, separator failure, mechanical shorting, plate material delamination and many other woes too hideous to mention. Although batteries can sometimes survive even a severe freeze-up, there is always damage done, and reduced life can be expected.

**************************************************************************
You know that volumes could be written just on the subject of batteries and it becomes rather technical.
If the readers are willing to faithfully do a certain amount of battery maintenance over the winter, there are better ways, as you suggest, to do so.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 11:38am
LOL, ok, I'll start ignoring all of your posts.  Tongue
 
Unfortunately if the battery is left connected it will be completely dead in 2-3 weeks, due to the propane detector.  Yes, once it is discharged it will freeze, but just being severely discharged will kill it long before it freezes.  A battery taken down to 0% charge usually is permanently dead or won't last very long if it will take a charge at all.
 
So, to add to David's recommendation... storing it where its warm is fine, just make sure you keep charging it once a month since it is warm.  No matter where you store it, always disconnect the battery between trips (I wish they included a quick disconnect like some campers have, its an absolute necessity unless you want to keep the camper plugged into your house 24/7).  Always charge it overnight before a trip, and then overnight when you get home before you disconnect it.
 
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 4:07pm
Thanks for adding the info Tech!  I was trying to get across to people to do something with the battery(s) also.....not just leave them connected and walk away....not good next spring.  I think the propane detector alone draws .75amps.  If I ever run power to my unheated minibarn, I'll probably store there, hooked to a battery tender devise.  Cold is better and heat does kill them.
What I do now is bring them in the attached garage which I try to not let get below 50F - due to a lot of plumbing out there.  I check the voltage now and then and zap it with the charger as needed.  (I am the "battery tender")LOL
 
Here is what I installed to disconnect the battery between trips.  I picked mine up at Camping World and installed it on top of the battery box.
 
 
I agree that something like this should be standard equipment.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 3:30pm
A quick note, after doing my winterization yesterday I modified/added a little to the checklist on the first page.  Let me know if you see anything else that needs a tweak.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 4:29pm
I will be doing ours this weekend as we are packing up to come home for the weekend.  Weather was too good to passup a weekend of camping.  Found I place we can dry camp for free.  They do have a place I can pull up to to have electric to run my compressor.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 5:25pm
Did you know the latch on your fridge can be moved so that the door is latched (won't swing open) yet there is a half in gap all the way around?
There is a little tab on the fridge side of the latch that can be slid out so that the door latch grabs it a bit further out than usual.
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