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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Joined: 14 Jan 2013
Location: Near Nashville
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Posts: 1446 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterization
    Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by ccamp126

Any reason to put the anode rod back in? 


Putting the anode rod back in, or a cork or something in the hole might prevent mice or spiders from crawling in.  I don't worry about that too much -- I flush the WH pretty thoroughly in the spring, but there's probably no reason not to put the anode back in.

TT
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 9:26pm
Originally posted by pgoelz

I just winterized our 2014 171 for the first time (bought it used this spring) and I have a couple questions..... my only other winterization experience has been blowing out the very simple system in our old pop up.  That was one line.  The Rpod is more complex.  

1.  I see reference here to low point drains..... I did not realize my 171 had them (and they are not in the manual).  I blew the system out thoroughly with compressed air and then filled it with RV antifreeze (pink from all taps and toilet).... can I assume opening the low point drains (if present) is not required? 

You are probably ok, the little bit of water in the low-point drain hoses will mix with the antifreeze.

2.  I drained the fresh water tank (and the water heater is dry and bypassed with the anode out) but I forgot to run the pump to suck any water out of the intake hose before I sucked in the antifreeze.  Since the intake for the antifreeze is (I assume) in the fresh water intake line between the tank and the pump, can I assume that any remaining water in the line between the bypass valve and the tank itself has either drained out or is not an issue if it freezes?  

Yes.

I found the owner's manual to be VERY generic and it left lots of questions.  However, it does instruct winterization by pouring antifreeze in the fresh water tank, which I guess would take care of my concerns above?  I decided not to put antifreeze in the tank since I don't know how long the tank would have to be flushed in the spring to get rid of any remaining antifreeze.... and taste.  

Don't put it in the tank, you will waste gallons of antifreeze when you only need 1 - 1 1/2.

Thanks,
Paul
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 9:27pm
Originally posted by ccamp126

Thanks SH. I was thinking the same, but wanted to be sure. Any reason to put the anode rod back in? 

I recommend putting it back in to prevent rust in the threads.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 70 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 7:00am
Originally posted by techntrek

 Don't put it in the tank, you will waste gallons of antifreeze when you only need 1 - 1 1/2.

Thanks,
Paul
[/QUOTE]
Thanks, that is what I thought.  And yes, it took about 1.5 gallons to flush the system.  Only bit I missed was to run the pump for a tick after lifting the tube part way out of the antifreeze bottle ;)  

Paul
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