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Topic ClosedWinterization

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techntrek View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterization
    Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 5:06pm
I found the latch adjustment last night on the fridge, works great.  It does indeed keep the fridge door from closing about a quarter inch - perfect for between trips and over the winter to keep the nasty smell and mold from growing.
 
I'll add that and Outbound's 4a to the list.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 7:07pm
Originally posted by techntrek

Let me know if you see anything else that needs a tweak.

Doug, how about adding: 4a) Using a garden hose, flush any debris from inside the water heater tank

I also suggest that the threads on the anode plug be wrapped with teflon tape before re-inserting in step 5.
Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 5:46pm
I guess I'm just lazy, but when we get the Pod home, I always plug it in to a 20 amp circuit to keep the battery charged and the lights, etc. usable.  This winter I am planning on just leaving the Pod plugged in with the battery installed. I figure our truck battery does not freeze, so why should the Pod battery have a problem if the Pod is plugged in to household current?
We just covered it with the Pod cover today and had no problems getting it on and fastening with bungee cords.
If anyone thinks leaving the Pod plugged in this winter with the battery installed is a bad idea, please let me know.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 1:23pm
As Elaine would say, GET OUT!  (Seinfeld)  That would be great, I'm making a note to check on that tonight.  I always leave it wide open when its parked but I often forget to go in and close it before I hook up and move it to my driveway to pack.  I expected it would get a little banged up eventually.  This would solve that problem.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 5:25pm
Did you know the latch on your fridge can be moved so that the door is latched (won't swing open) yet there is a half in gap all the way around?
There is a little tab on the fridge side of the latch that can be slid out so that the door latch grabs it a bit further out than usual.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 4:29pm
I will be doing ours this weekend as we are packing up to come home for the weekend.  Weather was too good to passup a weekend of camping.  Found I place we can dry camp for free.  They do have a place I can pull up to to have electric to run my compressor.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 3:30pm
A quick note, after doing my winterization yesterday I modified/added a little to the checklist on the first page.  Let me know if you see anything else that needs a tweak.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 4:07pm
Thanks for adding the info Tech!  I was trying to get across to people to do something with the battery(s) also.....not just leave them connected and walk away....not good next spring.  I think the propane detector alone draws .75amps.  If I ever run power to my unheated minibarn, I'll probably store there, hooked to a battery tender devise.  Cold is better and heat does kill them.
What I do now is bring them in the attached garage which I try to not let get below 50F - due to a lot of plumbing out there.  I check the voltage now and then and zap it with the charger as needed.  (I am the "battery tender")LOL
 
Here is what I installed to disconnect the battery between trips.  I picked mine up at Camping World and installed it on top of the battery box.
 
 
I agree that something like this should be standard equipment.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 11:38am
LOL, ok, I'll start ignoring all of your posts.  Tongue
 
Unfortunately if the battery is left connected it will be completely dead in 2-3 weeks, due to the propane detector.  Yes, once it is discharged it will freeze, but just being severely discharged will kill it long before it freezes.  A battery taken down to 0% charge usually is permanently dead or won't last very long if it will take a charge at all.
 
So, to add to David's recommendation... storing it where its warm is fine, just make sure you keep charging it once a month since it is warm.  No matter where you store it, always disconnect the battery between trips (I wish they included a quick disconnect like some campers have, its an absolute necessity unless you want to keep the camper plugged into your house 24/7).  Always charge it overnight before a trip, and then overnight when you get home before you disconnect it.
 
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 4:01am
I just knew you were going to get me on that LOL !  I almost titled the post in bold "everybody except techntrek (and a couple of others) please read.
 
Agree and I know you know of what you speak and will very likely maintain your battery(s) properly.  However, when considering all the scenarios that might occur with the different owners, I tried to come up with something that would do the least harm to the battery(s).
 
Worst case - a person just leaves the battery connected for the winter and does nothing.  Between the parasitic loads and the normal 10-20% drop per month, by late Jan. or Feb. the battery would likely be in a severe discharge.  Due to the chemical processes that take place to produce electricity in the battery, the more it becomes discharged, the more likely it is to freeze, as you know.  While a fully charged battery may not freeze until 60-70 below zero F, a severly discharged battery can freeze at approx. 32F and physically damage the battery.
 
*****************************************************************************

Temperature

As well as affecting self discharge rates, temperature affects battery performance in other ways. The optimum performance temperature range for batteries is 60 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit. At these temperatures, the battery will perform at 100% of its rated capacity. As temperatures drop, battery longevity increases, but performance drops. The battery goes into a state of partial "suspended animation" and only some of it’s potential power is available. You may have experienced this while starting your car in cold weather. (unless you are fortunate enough to live where there is no such thing as cold weather.) For example, at freezing (32 degrees Fahrenheit) some 65% of battery capacity can be utilized, but at zero only 40 percent is available.

Freezing

Freezing of batteries is a major concern of northern climate inhabitants. A fully charged battery typically will not freeze down to 70 to 90 degrees below zero, while a fully discharged battery is susceptible to freezing at +32 degrees. This is because of the chemical process which creates electricity in a battery. As a battery becomes discharged, the sulfuric acid in the electrolyte gradually bonds to the lead oxide in the battery plates. As this process continues, the electrolyte becomes less and less concentrated, until finally it is (theoretically but I wouldn’t drink it) pure water. Since water freezes at +32 F, the dead battery will then freeze at this temperature. Damage caused by freezing is mostly mechanical, I.E. the bursting of cases, plate breakage, separator failure, mechanical shorting, plate material delamination and many other woes too hideous to mention. Although batteries can sometimes survive even a severe freeze-up, there is always damage done, and reduced life can be expected.

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You know that volumes could be written just on the subject of batteries and it becomes rather technical.
If the readers are willing to faithfully do a certain amount of battery maintenance over the winter, there are better ways, as you suggest, to do so.
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