R-pod Owners Forum Homepage

This site is free to use.
Donations benefit a non-profit Girls Softball organization

Forum Home Forum Home > R-pod Discussion Forums > Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed: Winterization
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Calendar   Register Register  Login Login

Topic ClosedWinterization

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 7891011>
Author
Message Reverse Sort Order
techntrek View Drop Down
Admin Group - pHp
Admin Group - pHp
Avatar

Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Location: MD
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 9059
Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterization
    Posted: 07 Nov 2010 at 2:56pm

David, 3-7 are great ideas.  Funny that you leave the alarm covers dangling, I did that last year for the same reason.

However, I recommend charging the battery fully and leaving it outside or somewhere else where it will stay cold.  One of the interesting properties of lead acid batteries is their life is extended when they are kept cold (and it is reduced sitting in the hot sun in the summer).  Also, their self-discharge rate is reduced when they are cold so you don't have to charge them as often.  In the summer you need to recharge at least once a month, but in the winter - if the battery is left where it will stay cold - you only need to recharge every couple of months.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2010 at 1:28pm
Originally posted by TIDALWAVE

You may also wish to store your Pod wheels on a some strips of plastic vinyl.  A friend of mine in the tire business stated that the second worst environmental effect on tires (after UV-sunlight) was allowing long-term moisture contact under rubber tires.  Even a concrete floor will transfer moisture up to the tires if it can.  I store my Pod in a concrete floored machine shed.  The concrete was 'sealed' and cured for four years.  I accidentally left a piece of plastic sheeting on the floor.  After about a month of fall storage, I picked up the plastic and found water actually dripping from the bottom.
I believe that letting the Pod tires sit directly on gravel, dirt, or grass would be even worse.
From that time on, I have made it a habit to make certain that all of my trailer tires have a vinyl strip under the wheels.
I know what you say is true because I have seem with my own eyes.  This had never occurred to me.  It sounds like placing one of my Lynx leveler blocks under each tire might do the trick.  It's on my list of things to do.  Thanks!
Back to Top
TIDALWAVE View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: MINNESOTA
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 315
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2010 at 12:27pm
You may also wish to store your Pod wheels on a some strips of plastic vinyl.  A friend of mine in the tire business stated that the second worst environmental effect on tires (after UV-sunlight) was allowing long-term moisture contact under rubber tires.  Even a concrete floor will transfer moisture up to the tires if it can.  I store my Pod in a concrete floored machine shed.  The concrete was 'sealed' and cured for four years.  I accidentally left a piece of plastic sheeting on the floor.  After about a month of fall storage, I picked up the plastic and found water actually dripping from the bottom.
I believe that letting the Pod tires sit directly on gravel, dirt, or grass would be even worse.
From that time on, I have made it a habit to make certain that all of my trailer tires have a vinyl strip under the wheels.
TIDALWAVE
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 5:52am
A couple of additional things I do are:
 
1.  Remove the main 12v battery(s) and box(es) and store them inside the heated garage - after making sure it/they are fully charged.  NOTE: be sure you are unplugged from shore power and that all circuit breakers are turned off, prior to doing this. 
 
2.  Wrap the battery connectors with several twists of black tape and tuck them under the camper, out of the weather.  They always have a coating of dielectric grease on them, also, from when I cleaned and connected them in the Spring.
 
3. Put the end of the 7 prong Bargman connector in a small plastic bag and tape/seal it shut, also tucking it up and out of the weather.  It also has some dielectric grease on the pins to prevent corrosion.  I'm told that trying to clean corrosion out of the pins can be a real pain Embarrassed.  It is also good to make sure the TV connector has a good coating also...use a q-tip.
 
4.  Remove the 9v batteries from the smoke detector and carbon monoxide (CO) detector.  I leave them open and "hanging": to remind myself to install new batteries in the spring.
 
5.  Make sure the door on the fridge is propped open a tad to prevent mildew.
 
6.  Tire covers are a good investment year round.
 
7.  Make sure the propane tank(s) are fully off.  If not already covered, cover them with the tank cover, along with the regulator.
 
NOTE: You should not tow your camper if you do the above.  With no battery in place, the break away safety brakes on the trailer will NOT work.  If you plan to do winter camping either re-install the battery(s) or do not remove it as mentioned in #1 and #2.
Back to Top
TIDALWAVE View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: MINNESOTA
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 315
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 7:05pm
I wanted to be able to get at the RV antifreeze pickup hose easily. After removing the hold-down screws on the seat base above the pump...I installed a couple of flush brass hinges along the wall side of the seat base.  I also drilled a hole on the inboard side of the seat base so that I would have a 'finger hole' to lift the base up. The seat base sits on top of the surrounding structure, so there is no worry about the base falling in. 
(If you just permanently remove the hold down screws there is a chance for the seat base to shift
while you sit on it...you would do a lot of damage falling into the pump/heater/plumbing area!)
TIDALWAVE
Back to Top
mountain mist View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 25 May 2010
Location: Gatlinburg Tenn
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 426
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 6:11pm
Just looked in the last place we had, under the mattress. The pump sound was coming from that area. While not easy, now that it has been located, will be in future. Husband would not leave the screws out, tried to get him to.
 
Now, we have come to the conclusion that in order not to get bored while putting these Pods together, the construction teams do something different each week.  Yuk, Yuk.LOL
The old shell game.
 
 
But now I can rest easy that the investment has been protected.
 
Thank you for the help. I am out of the mood for camping at this time.Cry
 
 
'11 Forest River r.pod 171
'10 Ford Edge
ESCAPE POD
Trudi and Austin mini-schnauzers
change here, Trudi has gone, Austin now has a small black schnauzer buddy, Bentley
Back to Top
techntrek View Drop Down
Admin Group - pHp
Admin Group - pHp
Avatar

Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Location: MD
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 9059
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 5:00pm
You must do more than the drains - the internals of the faucets will be destroyed if frozen.  My 2010 171 has the water pump back by the water heater.  You have to lift the mattress on the queen bed, then you'll see several screws holding down the plywood to your right (same side as the kitchen).  Unscrew them to find the water heater, bypass valves, water pump, and antifreeze hose.
 
I left the screws out so now its much easier to get into that compartment in the spring and fall.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
Back to Top
mountain mist View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 25 May 2010
Location: Gatlinburg Tenn
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 426
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 3:48pm
HELPStar Having trouble finding the water pump first of all.
Called our dealer. THEY know nothing.  Have never winterized one.
Could go way of pour the antifreeze down the drains and toilet, but if we can find the pickup line you speak of (and maybe not all Pods have them was suggested) we could use less.
Thank you for any help in direction of find the pump.
'11 Forest River r.pod 171
'10 Ford Edge
ESCAPE POD
Trudi and Austin mini-schnauzers
change here, Trudi has gone, Austin now has a small black schnauzer buddy, Bentley
Back to Top
rpodcamper.com View Drop Down
Admin Group - pHp
Admin Group - pHp
Avatar

Joined: 26 Nov 2009
Location: Reading, Pa
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 3990
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 3:47pm
on my 2009 rpod 171 the hose is attached about 6" from the water pump under the stove cabnet.  But i heard on some newer units they have moved the pump back with the hot water heater.  Mine is a clear hose that has a threaded end on it next to a shut off point. 
Back to Top
mountain mist View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 25 May 2010
Location: Gatlinburg Tenn
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 426
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 3:22pm
We have been looking for the special antifreeze line near the water pump. To no avail! Just not looking in right place? Just where do we start
'11 Forest River r.pod 171
'10 Ford Edge
ESCAPE POD
Trudi and Austin mini-schnauzers
change here, Trudi has gone, Austin now has a small black schnauzer buddy, Bentley
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 7891011>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz