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Topic ClosedR-Pod Owner Wannabe
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 May 2016
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: R-Pod Owner Wannabe
    Posted: 16 May 2016 at 7:58pm
Here is another discussion (on IRV2) with photos (not mine)
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:03pm
Holly,

You definitely are presenting a problem. It appears from your picture that the heater and light are hardwired together like the second diagram in the RV.net post, labeled Appendix-C. To disable the heater and leave the light you will have to cut ONE of the red wires OR ONE of the black wires. Do you have access to or can borrow a clamp on ammeter? It will look like these and must measure DC current:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_11/187-5915115-2539268?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=clamp+on+amp+meter&sprefix=clamp+on+am%2Caps%2C271

If so you can easily determine which red or black wire to cut. If not it becomes a guessing game. You could take a lead from the your second RV.net post (by Zackdog) and assume the larger wire is the heater. If you cut it and the light still works you've won. If not it can be repaired and you start over again. Or you could then go and cut the other and just live without the light. Another option is to identify J2 in the back of the fridge and disconnect it. This should disable the heater AND the light. I can't tell from the pictures what J2 looks like physically so I can't help there. If you can ID J2 and it can be disconnected that would be the easiest.

All that said we don't want to discourage you from joining the RPOD club. How was your visit to PodLand?
Charlie
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:13pm
I don't care if the light works or not. So, in that case, what do I do? (I can make the best homemade pizza in the world, but read a schematic, or cut a wire without electrocution - not so much!)

Salesman would not come to a price I could live with. He only came down 14% off MSRP. Owner comes in tomorrow. I don't know if I'll hear from them or not. I haven't given up the ghost yet! 

A question - salesman told me that an overhead fan could NOT be installed in the main cabin, leaving the bathroom fan as the only possible fan. Is that true? 
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:32pm
First tell me if you can get or borrow a clamp on DC ammeter? An auto store like AutoZone may have one to lend.

If not, can you locate J2 in the back outside like the Zackdog (RV.net) first picture? That would be the second best.

The third option would be to just cut the larger black wire as a guess. Cutting either black wire will disable the heater, though the wrong wire will also kill the light. If all else fails it's worth a try. You may get lucky and retain the light. Either way the heater will be dead, but you have to cut one black (or red) wire. Be sure the trailer is unplugged from shore power and one wire of the main battery is disconnected before cutting. I recommend cutting the black wire because you will not have a hot wire floating around. Tape the cut wires and sleep well.
Charlie
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:50pm
Holly, get an online quote from Couch's.  I see you are already a member on their forum (you'll quickly see you'll do better hanging around here, but they can save you big money).
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:51pm
I've been seriously thinking about getting a clamp-on ammeter (when this whole fridge thing came up). I'll shop around tomorrow. (that would be online shopping...I am far, far out in the boonies). 

So, if I don't care one bit about the light working - I can easily live without that light -  can't I just pull the silver thing that has the two black wires? (pulling it makes the light go out). 

I'll look at the outside compartment tomorrow with schematic in hand. 

I'm off to look at Lowe's for the meter...
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 10:04pm
Originally posted by techntrek

Holly, get an online quote from Couch's.  I see you are already a member on their forum (you'll quickly see you'll do better hanging around here, but they can save you big money).

LOL - I am? I do not recall joining their forum...didn't know (or remember) that they had one!! :) I called on Saturday, I believe, and the guy I spoke with said that they did not have the 2 units I was interested in on the lot, even though they were on, I think, RVTrader. He did not show much interest in providing any further information. It's getting more and more difficult to find people these days to take your money...

But now that I've seen a unit, I'll go back to them. 

Now, where is that Forum? Star

ON EDIT: It's the RPod Nation forum? I liked it better over here!! 
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 10:05pm
A clamp on ammeter is always a good thing to have. When you look MAKE SURE it measures DC Current. Most only measure AC current and are of limited use for you. I have this one from Sears and like it very much:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Or this one at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-UT210E-Current-Meters-Capacitance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463450940&sr=8-6&keywords=clamp+meter

I don't see one at Lowes.

Just pulling the silver or brass connectors from the lamp will not disable the heater. That just kills the light. You have to separate the two black or red wires from each other.
Charlie
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2016 at 10:41am
I FOUND J2!
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2016 at 11:25am
Ok, now you have a choice. Wait for the clamp on meter and be able to disable the heater while retaining the light

OR

Simply pull J2, thereby disconnecting both the heater and the light.
BTW, Sears and Amazon also carry flashlights Wink .


Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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