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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: R-Pod Owner Wannabe
    Posted: 18 May 2016 at 11:38am
Okay, just went out there and took the back thing apart again (I'm getting good at that detail...) 

Where I pulled J2 is clearly labeled, albeit in TINY and Out-Of-Focus font, LAMP/HEATER.
So, I'm good, right?



Also, that thermo-whatever thing that slides up and down on the fins has a  fat white wire connected to it. 
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2016 at 11:12am
No panic, just a consideration. Doug (Techntrek) has a good point. First, double check that the thing the red wire goes to is really labeled J2. Second, trace the associated black wire as far as you can and see what it's connected to. A picture helps. If you can post  the diagram that would help too. And, yes, the meter will solve it all. 
Charlie
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2016 at 10:58am
OH NO - I thought it was fixed! Unhappy

How do I determine where the thing goes? Just kind of follow it up? I'll go out and look in a few minutes. 

But when I get my clamp on ammeter, that'll tell me (you, really) for sure? :)
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2016 at 9:10am
Can't disagree, Doug, good observation. Certainly looks like Romex, but may still be used on 12V circuit. This is hard by remote control Cry .

Maybe Holly can do the following:
  1. Verify the connector really is J2.
  2. Determine where the black wire in that cable with the red wire goes. J number or terminal block? The diagram we're working from shows it might go to J10 or a ground terminal.
  3. Find a similar diagram on the fridge and post a good clear picture.
Charlie
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2016 at 9:50pm
That picture looks like J2 is Romex, usually used for a 120 volt connection...
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2016 at 11:37am
Originally posted by CharlieM

BTW, Sears and Amazon also carry flashlights Wink .

LOL I actually don't keep much in the fridge. It's the freezer I need. 

Mostly all that's in the fridge section is beer and wine...and salad. 
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2016 at 11:35am
Pulled J2 and the fridge light went off. 
I am hoping for success! 
And even greater success in the boondocking department - look out, NFS, here I come! Dance

Thank you so much for your help! 
I really appreciate it. 

And hopefully this thread can help others.

I'll do some testing when I get my new meter! 
(with your help, of course...) 
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2016 at 11:25am
Ok, now you have a choice. Wait for the clamp on meter and be able to disable the heater while retaining the light

OR

Simply pull J2, thereby disconnecting both the heater and the light.
BTW, Sears and Amazon also carry flashlights Wink .


Charlie
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2016 at 10:41am
I FOUND J2!
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 10:05pm
A clamp on ammeter is always a good thing to have. When you look MAKE SURE it measures DC Current. Most only measure AC current and are of limited use for you. I have this one from Sears and like it very much:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Or this one at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-UT210E-Current-Meters-Capacitance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463450940&sr=8-6&keywords=clamp+meter

I don't see one at Lowes.

Just pulling the silver or brass connectors from the lamp will not disable the heater. That just kills the light. You have to separate the two black or red wires from each other.
Charlie
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