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Topic ClosedR-Pod Owner Wannabe
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: R-Pod Owner Wannabe
    Posted: 16 May 2016 at 6:15pm
Originally posted by fredtello1

Man... I have the dometic in my 177.... same issue with battery..... where exactly do I find the proper wire to disconnect???   what color is it and where is it located....  this is really good news!!!

Here is a rather lengthy discussion, along with instructions, that was had over on rv dot net. (hope the link works).
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fredtello1 View Drop Down
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Posts: 9 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 5:41pm
Man... I have the dometic in my 177.... same issue with battery..... where exactly do I find the proper wire to disconnect???   what color is it and where is it located....  this is really good news!!!
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 10:22pm
Yup, it is a huge draw and completely stupid that they removed the switch to defeat it.  Even for the older fridges like mine, the switch isn't on the main control panel so you have to hunt for it after finding out that it even exists.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 10:01pm
That is consistent with my info from Dometic and my measurements. The 0.5 Amp draw is constant, which eats up 12 AH of battery capacity per day. You don't need it. There is some draw for the 12V control logic and the fans when they run, but nothing like that constant 1/2A and certainly not 3.3A.
Charlie
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 9:55pm
I had posted this on 8/25/2015 over on the Fun Finder Forum. The reply indicates the .5A is ONLY for the climate control...I don't know what the total is. I have, however, received erroneous information from Dometic in the past. 
_______________________________________________________

Here is the reply I just received from Dometic:

With the climate control system, as long as the refrigerator is on the climate control will pull .5 amp per hour.
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 9:47pm
Going through this stroll down Refrigerator Memory Lane, I recalled that I did pull a clip behind the light inside the fridge. As I recall, just pulling this clip both turned off that dehumidifier thing AND turned off the light. I can live without the light. 

As I recall now, I discovered that "fix" after my last camping trip of last season. So, if I don't come home with an R-Pod tomorrow, I'll yank that red wire and see how it goes. 

But I really want a 171 or a 172...

When I walked over to the FunFinder's garage to get the fridge model number, I noticed that the amp draw for propane on the inside label had two dashes (as in blank)...
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 9:33pm
Interesting experience with the Helium fridge. I've wondered how they were working out.

Researching your DM2662 it looks like it does have the heater, called Climate Control. The earlier user manual indicates they did have an on/off switch, but the later 2009 manual doesn't mention it for the 2662. Check page 15 and look for the switch on you fridge. If it is not there it can be added or defeated with some modification. On my Dometic it was a single wire mod.
Older manual:
http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/EPiServer/Dometic/US/Manuals/RV-manuals/Refrigerators/Americana-AmericanaPlus-Installation-Operating-Manual_17602.pdf

Newer manual:
http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/EPiServer/Dometic/US/Manuals/RV-Manuals/Refrigerators/Americana-Americana-Plus-users-Manual_3313240.000_17711.pdf

I can't find a spec on 12V current for yours, but you can easily measure it if you can find and use an ammeter. I suspect it's closer to my model 3762 since it is very similar. Until you have verified documentation or a good measurement I'm very suspicious of 3.3A.
Charlie
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 9:31pm
Welcome.  I had the same problem with the fridge on my 2008 Salem, luckily I discovered mine has the switch (after our first weekend of camping, that completely drained my new group 29 battery that should have lasted much longer).  Newer models can be modified by disconnecting a wire behind the light assembly.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 8:47pm
Originally posted by CharlieM

Can you post the make and model of the fridge? Most RVs use either Dometic or Norcold. 3.3 amps seems very high.  

I thought 3.3 seemed exceptionally high, too! 

The trailer came with an Atwood helium fridge. OMGosh - that thing failed failed failed. Replaced by Atwood with another just like original. Failed Failed Failed. 

FINALLY, Atwood agreed to replace, at their cost, their Atwood Fridge with a Dometic. Let me see if I can find the papers...


.....................................time passes..........................................

It's a Dometic DM2662 RBX, made in 2015. 
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2016 at 8:26pm
Can you post the make and model of the fridge? Most RVs use either Dometic or Norcold. 3.3 amps seems very high.  I have a 7cu ft Dometic that draws ~0.6A on 12V when on propane, but 0.5 of that is a frame heater. The frame heater is supposed to help with condensation and freezing around the freezer door, BUT it is not necessary and can be disabled. Earlier models of this fridge had a switch to disable the heater, but Dometic deleted it because it was too confusing (read: they saved 50 cents). Adding a switch or totally disconnecting the heater is easy for a handy or knowledgeable person. Many of us on the Camplite forum have done it. This won't solve your weight problem, but it might help the ice chest situation.
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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