refrigerator runs when turned off - Event Date: 02 Aug 2015 |
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HuronSailor
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 10 Jun 2009 Location: Owosso MI Online Status: Offline Posts: 704 |
Calendar Event: refrigerator runs when turned off Posted: 09 Oct 2015 at 7:29am |
Glad the fridge issue is solved. It sounds like some RV techs need to consult this forum.
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.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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SNO4ME
Senior Member Joined: 28 Sep 2013 Location: NW Wis Online Status: Offline Posts: 122 |
Posted: 09 Oct 2015 at 12:05am |
R-Pod Owners Forum It's a wonderful thing! Congrats on solving another mystery! |
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Bruce & Donna in the Sno Pod
(and Brewer too) 2011 RP 177 |
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Shelpod
Groupie Joined: 14 Sep 2015 Location: Arizona Online Status: Offline Posts: 74 |
Posted: 08 Oct 2015 at 11:00am |
The board on the fridge had a burned relay that was stuck on. The DC heater was running even in propane mode so it is little wonder that my batteries went dead. The tech disconnected the DC line to the heating element at the board so no more power when off but the board still works to control what mode the fridge is in. They are checking into the cost of a new control board but if what I am reading in this forum is correct I will probably opt to not get it because the price is so exorbitant and DC mode really is not very useful. Mystery solved and now I am safe to go out without worrying about damaging my new batteries. I thought maybe I was crazy but persistence proved me correct. Thanks for listening and for the pointers.
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 07 Oct 2015 at 6:54pm |
Have you done both tests to confirm the battery condition?
First charge it overnight with a known good charger, then let it rest (completely disconnected) for 3 hours, then hopefully measure around 12.7 volts. Second, hook it back up to the pod. Assuming yours has incandescent lights inside, run 8 bulbs (many of the fixtures have 2) for one hour, taking a voltage measurement when you start, end, and again after it rests for 3 hours after disconnecting it. If your lights are LED you can use the DC mode on the fridge (ironically) with the door open, again for one hour, to apply the same load.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Shelpod
Groupie Joined: 14 Sep 2015 Location: Arizona Online Status: Offline Posts: 74 |
Posted: 07 Oct 2015 at 1:48pm |
Found out that at least part of my problem is that my converter was not putting out enough to keep the batteries charged. My 2 6 v batteries were damaged. Not sure which came first. That still doesn't explain why my Fridge heating element stays on even when everything is turned off unless something got damaged through the battery/converter problem. Will have to get the service center to look at it again.
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 01 Oct 2015 at 10:14pm |
I would have it on a separate circuit. I would expect the converter fan to turn off with the fridge's heater no longer as a load.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Shelpod
Groupie Joined: 14 Sep 2015 Location: Arizona Online Status: Offline Posts: 74 |
Posted: 01 Oct 2015 at 6:43pm |
Ended up pulling fuse 7 and that turned off the fridge entirely including the heating element. This circuit has more than just the fridge on it including the inside lights. I have another circuit that is unwired. Has anyone moved the fridge to that circuit? Is there anything I should be saving it for? Also when I pulled the fuse, the converter (fan?) immediately went off. Not sure if this is somehow wired into that same circuit or if it is separate. Could be just that there was no longer a draw on the battery. Anyone know about this or how I can test it?
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Shelpod
Groupie Joined: 14 Sep 2015 Location: Arizona Online Status: Offline Posts: 74 |
Posted: 30 Sep 2015 at 12:16pm |
Confirmed that last night as well. Since I had the plug pulled and it was still on shore power, I am sure that it is not the 110 side. I don't have a fuse that is clearly marked as for the frig, so I will have to start pulling fuses until I find the right one. Just didn't have time last night.
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 29 Sep 2015 at 8:28pm |
The plug behind the fridge powers the 120 volt heater. Assuming the 12 volt heater is the problem you'll need to pull the fuse on the converter.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Shelpod
Groupie Joined: 14 Sep 2015 Location: Arizona Online Status: Offline Posts: 74 |
Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 10:18pm |
Just checked again this evening. The unit has been plugged into house current since we got home last night with the frig turned off. The inside was at about 50 degrees with a little ice still in the freezer section. There was a lot of heat coming out the top vent on the outside like something is still actively heating. I unplugged the frig in the lower vent. I don't know if that is 12v or 110. I will check in the morning and see if there is any difference. If that doesn't change anything I will figure out which fuse is for the frig. A bit frustrating.
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