Fridge not working on propane

Message Share Topic Printable Version Google Delicious Digg StumbleUpon Windows Live Yahoo Bookmarks reddit Facebook MySpace Newsvine Furl Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic

   Here is one article on servicing an RV fridge.  I just skimmed it but it looks good:http://www.rvdoctor.com/2004/11/cleaning-servicing-rv-refrigerator.html

The orifice is part of the burner assembly, at the bottom of the chimney.  One screw will allow you to remove the wind deflector, then another will allow you to pull the assembly - gently - away from the wall.  You don't want to bend the long tube it is attached to (the fuel supply) but it will give a little so you can get to it easier.  Then you remove the rectangular mixer, it will unscrew from the long tube.  Careful here because the orifice is just sitting on the end of that tube.  It is a very thin piece of aluminum no bigger than the top of an eraser.

Going by memory here, it has been a year since I've done that.

Author	Message Share Topic Printable Version Google Delicious Digg StumbleUpon Windows Live Yahoo Bookmarks reddit Facebook MySpace Newsvine Furl Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic
techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Topic: Fridge not working on propane Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 11:12pm
	Here is one article on servicing an RV fridge. I just skimmed it but it looks good: http://www.rvdoctor.com/2004/11/cleaning-servicing-rv-refrigerator.html The orifice is part of the burner assembly, at the bottom of the chimney. One screw will allow you to remove the wind deflector, then another will allow you to pull the assembly - gently - away from the wall. You don't want to bend the long tube it is attached to (the fuel supply) but it will give a little so you can get to it easier. Then you remove the rectangular mixer, it will unscrew from the long tube. Careful here because the orifice is just sitting on the end of that tube. It is a very thin piece of aluminum no bigger than the top of an eraser. Going by memory here, it has been a year since I've done that.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

Q7-retired Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 26 Dec 2014 Location: Pittsboro, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 100	Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 10:46pm
	Still working on the same, similar problem. is there a diagram showing the orifice location?
	Best regards, Jim 2015-RP178 TV 2015 Audi Q7 TDI and 2017 Ford F150 At home in "Our Pod"

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 10:43pm
	You need to run a rag up and down the chimney to ensure it is clear. Then you need to - carefully - remove the orifice and blow it out. It is very tiny and has a very very tiny hole in it. Put anything into that hole and you will need a new one. I tried both of those things, and bought a new orifice, and still had a problem. The service dealer said they thought it was the gas valve on the fridge. The deal for my current camper fell in my lap before I got that fixed so I don't know the final outcome with the new owner (it was fully disclosed on my ads so they knew about it). It ran fine on AC and DC so the ammonia absorption system was fine.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

frogpod Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 17 Aug 2014 Location: Grand Rapids, M Online Status: Offline Posts: 40	Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 9:44pm
	Hey Techntrek. What did you do to fix yours? Our pod fridge barely cools on propane. Works well on shore power or battery. It is level in the drivesay right now. The flue gets hot and I took an air compressor to the bottom area of the flue and inside the flue to clear out any spiders. What can I check next.... Thanks
	Leo and Tami with Coltrane the Jack Russell Terrier 2010 Rpod 171 2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Posted: 21 Jul 2015 at 11:15pm
	Even with a flame and warm flue it may not cool, that is how mine was operating (or not) on gas mode. But, it would be a start to see if the flame is working at least.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

Guests Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Guest Group	Posted: 21 Jul 2015 at 6:14pm
	I went out and took a picture of the flue pipe: Your arrangement/layout may be a little different. I have a NORCOLD fridge in the Coleman. I believe the PODS are still using DOMETIC.

Guests Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Guest Group	Posted: 21 Jul 2015 at 5:09pm
	Echoing John in Idaho and Furpod...... Go outside and remove the access panel to the fridge workings. It will have 2 "buttons" near the top. Turn them 1/4 turn, tilt out at the top, and lift out (the bottom is held in with tabs). You can now check inside for any "critters", as John mentioned. If all is well...... Leave the access panel off. You will notice a 2-2 1/2" metal flue pipe that goes up to the roof vent. Turn on the fridge in propane mode and then go out and feel this flue pipe. It should begin to warm up, as it exhausts the combustion. This is the only way I know to tell if the fridge is working on gas. As Furpod mentioned, it is dead silent. Give the flue pipe a minute or two to warm up. The fridge doesn't use much gas. Also, as mentioned, please pass along if you are starting with a "warm" or already cold fridge. Since you are hearing the "clicking", and not getting an error signal, this indicates to me that the fridge "thinks" it is working OK.

furpod Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128	Posted: 21 Jul 2015 at 3:55pm
	Do you have 12v? it must have 12v to run, no matter what mode. The control panel lights are on? If not press and hold the power button until the control panel turns on. The thing is close to dead silent, so if it was showing in gas mode, AND the red trouble light isn't on.. odds are it's running and you don't realize it. If you are starting from a warm fridge, and not just changing modes on a cold fridge, it will be a day before it gets good and cold.

john in idaho Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 04 Nov 2014 Location: Eagle Idaho Online Status: Offline Posts: 611	Posted: 21 Jul 2015 at 3:55pm
	Do you have spider webs or wasp nests in the burner?

CARR-POD Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Bracebridge Ont Online Status: Offline Posts: 19	Posted: 21 Jul 2015 at 3:47pm
	Hi I forgot to mention the red light did not come on. I tried starting it a number of times, tried purging the lines, even put a fresh bottle on but no luck. The red light thing has me baffled. Ed
	Trees love to toss and sway; they make such happy noises. (Emily Carr) Pam and Ed 2011 R177