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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: battery power?
    Posted: 10 Sep 2015 at 8:08am
Without the TV on, yes. It can be even quicker if the battery wasn't fully charged or is older.

I've been on all-day slogs through 100 degree Utah sun, LP mode not working and 12 gauge wiring on the TV, and watched the temperature go from 33 F (AC mode worked fine) to 80+. DC mode worked fine when the camper was plugged in and the battery was full when we left in the morning, and in good shape. After that trip I ran an additional 8 gauge wire in parallel with the 12 gauge line. I could have done it as a field fix but it just didn't occur to me that the TV wiring wasn't adequate - until I ran the numbers. 12 is just way too small and unfortunately it is what you get from vehicle manufacturers and aftermarket places like Uhaul.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 298 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2015 at 12:54am
Originally posted by David and Danette

   Sounds like propane as has been said is the best option for refrigerator. The trailer with everything else that's using amperage while towing 5-8 amps. doesn't leave much for refrigerator. The trailer battery would need to make up the remaining amps. needed.


Many people report that their battery is drained in as little as five hours when running the refrigerator on battery power.
"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien

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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2015 at 9:21pm
Originally posted by David and Danette

   Sounds like propane as has been said is the best option for refrigerator. The trailer with everything else that's using amperage while towing 5-8 amps. doesn't leave much for refrigerator. The trailer battery would need to make up the remaining amps. needed.

Essentially.  With 12 gauge wire you get a nearly 10% voltage drop, or about 12.7 volts.  That isn't enough to maintain a maintenance charge on the camper battery if it is fully charged to start.  If it is low then the voltage crashes and your food gets warm.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2015 at 8:57pm
Originally posted by CharlieM

It is only really accurate if no lights light. That means your battery fell off on the way. 

LOL
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 1215 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2015 at 7:46pm
   Sounds like propane as has been said is the best option for refrigerator. The trailer with everything else that's using amperage while towing 5-8 amps. doesn't leave much for refrigerator. The trailer battery would need to make up the remaining amps. needed.
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Posts: 298 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2015 at 7:06pm
Originally posted by David and Danette

   I think that most tow vehicles provide about 10 amps. to trailer does that sound about right.


Generally, no. Most TVs are only pushing 5-8 amps to the trailer. This can obviously be increased with larger gauge wire, larger fuses, and the changing of any diodes, but honestly, the big reason people would do so is to run the refrigerator on electric power while towing. This can easily be accomplished by running the fridge on propane instead.
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Posts: 1215 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2015 at 3:35pm
   I think that most tow vehicles provide about 10 amps. to trailer does that sound about right.
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2015 at 1:25pm
Originally posted by GLBCamper

Another battery related question. I keep the pod plugged into shore power when storing at home and tow with a charge line, but when I get to a dry camping site and disconnect from the TV the battery indicator on the wall panel shows 2/3 (3 dots). I know the panel lights aren't very specific but it seems like it should read full (or 4 dots).


Good words from WillThrill and Techntrek. The OEM 4 light status panel is essentially junk. It is only really accurate if no lights light. That means your battery fell off on the way. The top light will light when the battery is being charged. Normally the third light will light with a fully charged battery, but it doesn't really mean you only have 2/3 or 3/4 charge. Don't be concerned. The best solution is a digital voltmeter or hydrometer as said.
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2015 at 1:07pm
Plus, if you tow with the fridge on DC mode, most TV wiring (including factory-installed wiring) isn't large enough to handle the 10-11 amp load. So you end up discharging your camper battery while you tow - and if you tow more than a few hours your food will start to warm up once the pod's battery has run down. Always use propane mode on the road, it is the best way to avoid battery and fridge issues. Often it means less "fiddle factor" too.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 298 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2015 at 12:33pm
Originally posted by GLBCamper

Another battery related question. I keep the pod plugged into shore power when storing at home and tow with a charge line, but when I get to a dry camping site and disconnect from the TV the battery indicator on the wall panel shows 2/3 (3 dots). I know the panel lights aren't very specific but it seems like it should read full (or 4 dots).


As said before, don't put much stock in what the onboard battery indicator says. The FAR better way to measure a battery's capacity is with a voltmeter. You can install a permanent voltmeter as many here have done. I installed a 12v socket very close to the junction box and just plug in an Innova voltmeter into that to assess the battery. The back of the voltmeter even tells you what voltage corresponds to what percentage of capacity the battery is at. Even more simple, you can get a 12v socket that just clamps onto the battery outside and plug the Innova voltmeter into that, but that requires going outside.
"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien

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