Help choosing WDH w/FSC

Originally posted by Pod People We have the Equalizer 4 point hitch and had the same problems with nuts and brackets getting loose.  After many attempts, I have finally gotten them so the nuts stay tight and the L brackets don't move. I use double nylock nuts with thread cement(get the kind that it is not permanent) and double lock washers on each of the 4 bolts that hold the L brackets in place. I had to get new longer hardened bolts to accommodate the extra hardware.  I torqued them to mfg specs and they haven't come loose yet.  The problem with the L brackets was that they kept getting pushed backward by the spring bars friction. I looked closely and measured carefully to discover that the problem happened because the R Pod frame height was about 1/16" shorter than the space between the upper and lower bolts.  this was enough space for the L bracket to be pushed backward at an angle.    After looking at many options, I used  one half of an exterior door hinge as a shim between the top bolt and the trailer frame.  I had to cut off the hinge pin barrels and grind a little off of the overall thickness in the center where the bolts was located. .  I made it a very  tight fit.  After the bolts were torqued, there is no slop or movement between the top bolt and the L bracket because it is solid with no space.  It hasn't moved since. I still check them frequently with my torque wrench. Vann

We have the Equalizer 4 point hitch and had the same problems with nuts and brackets getting loose.  After many attempts, I have finally gotten them so the nuts stay tight and the L brackets don't move.

I use double nylock nuts with thread cement(get the kind that it is not permanent) and double lock washers on each of the 4 bolts that hold the L brackets in place. I had to get new longer hardened bolts to accommodate the extra hardware.  I torqued them to mfg specs and they haven't come loose yet. 

The problem with the L brackets was that they kept getting pushed backward by the spring bars friction. I looked closely and measured carefully to discover that the problem happened because the R Pod frame height was about 1/16" shorter than the space between the upper and lower bolts.  this was enough space for the L bracket to be pushed backward at an angle.    After looking at many options, I used  one half of an exterior door hinge as a shim between the top bolt and the trailer frame.  I had to cut off the hinge pin barrels and grind a little off of the overall thickness in the center where the bolts was located. .  I made it a very  tight fit.  After the bolts were torqued, there is no slop or movement between the top bolt and the L bracket because it is solid with no space.  It hasn't moved since.

I still check them frequently with my torque wrench.

Vann

Originally posted by R-Pod'nFJ I can get the thin walled socket but I won't have a torque wrench big enough to torque down the 3/4" bolts. I'll probably just get it set up and snugged up then take the actual hitch to a truck shop to have it torqued up. I can't imagine they would charge much if anything at all for that.

Originally posted by R-Pod'nFJ Thanks for the info. I knew it wouldn't be holding all the weight of FW but I wasn't sure how the percentage of weight that is transferred would affect the TW and needed someone with Pod experience to give me their perspective. Thanks again. I think the Equal-I-Zer is going to work well for me. Thanks again.

Edited by Seanl - 14 Apr 2015 at 10:00am

Going to get messy if he pees on that tire at speed..

Remember, even though your FW tank is ahead of the axle, it's not anywhere near the coupler. If you fill it all the way it weighs 250lbs or so, but it only adds a fraction of that to the tongue weight. The Pods frame acts as a lever, and the axle a fulcrum. The closer the weight is to the fulcrum the lower the percentage of it's weight acts upon the "handle end" of the lever (the coupler).