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techntrek View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: tow
    Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 1:16pm
There are solutions for a sloppy receiver, here is just one:  http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Boone-Outdoor/93347.html

For the exhaust, I would look at other alternatives, like adding a support that pulls the exhaust away from the problem area, or adding some silicone caulk on the spot to remove the metal-on-metal contact.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 5:54am
Thanks - that's helpful. I've now discovered two separate sources of knocking. The first is that the receiver for the trailer hitch is indeed bigger than the hitch. The whole thing wiggles quite significantly and I can hear that on uneven surfaces at speed (but not starting off). 

Then there's another noise - which I've now tracked to the fact that the Curt hitch has less than 3/4" clearance from my tail pipe on one side and that once the exhaust system is hot and under certain engine loads (eg. changing up a gear) it knocks against it briefly. 

Not sure there's an easy fix to either of these things. Unless there's some shim solution to the hitch square problem? And in terms of the Curt hitch it'd mean cutting a small section out of the one side of the t-bar under the car. Which I'm cautious to do...

Anyway, I think these two things fall into the category of annoying rather than urgent.

The ride quality seemed to improve once I filled up the R-pod fresh water tank, which looks to be behind the axle and therefore presumably reduced tongue weight. Still no sway, so that seems to be a happy medium.

Other than that, the rig has done quite well and I'm now in southern Utah. 11-12mpg, the car has been stout and the power-to-weight ratio has actually felt better than the triple-e Unity Mercedes sprinter RV that I rented a couple of years ago. There have been some biggish passes and some moderate sidewinds, but no heart-stopping moments. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 10:35pm
Some receivers (the square part mounted on the TV) are slightly too big, so when the hitch is mounted it can move slightly.  That will sound like a thump on bumps and uneven roads because as the pod's tongue rises the hitch can wiggle around momentarily.  Usually when you have a WDH in place it won't thump when starting or stopping because it is maintaining upward pressure on the hitch.  With your hitch in place but not hooked to the pod, can you wiggle it around?  

Some squeaking when starting may be the WDH, or the ball.

Check your owner's manual, it may state one maximum w/o a WDH and another with a WDH.  You want to keep the pod's tongue weight at 10-15% of the total weight of the pod for proper handling, so don't unload it too much.

Normal when towing, but if a WDH is set up correctly the ride quality should be comfortable because the front axle will be close to its normal height and the rear axle will be within an inch or two.  Plus the WDH adds an extra suspension system to the whole rig with its spring bars.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 10:10am
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 6:18pm
It would be nice to know which engine was in the Rover used for that test, as it's a eurospec, it could be the bigger diesel.. would make a difference I think.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 5:04pm
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 12:44pm
If you can rent locally that may be a better option.  Remember to take into the equation the amount of gas you save by not towing it all the way there and back at 12 mpg (US) or less.  Probably half of what you normally get.
 
Your specs have just enough power and torque, minimum.  6 speed tranny is good, it will be geared lower on 1st and 2nd gear than a 4-speed to get off the line easier while towing.  Average sized brakes for that towing limit. 
 
The biggest limitation is the wheel base, 105 inches is short for towing.  Which means a sway bar or WDH with sway control is a must.  NOT just the "sway control" built into the vehicle, that is secondary to real sway control.  That just selectively applies the brakes to dampen sway after it has started, causing excessive brake wear and heating.   See the link in my signature for more info on controlling sway - a short wheel base is one of the biggest contributors to starting sway.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 9:43am
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 8:42am
It's not going to be the weight alone, it's also about frontal area, and as aero as a pod looks.. they are not. Your owners manual may very well address this, mine does.

I suspect that trip, with that combination of trailer and tow vehicle would be pretty hard on everybody and everything, involved.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2015 at 8:39am
Ditto to everything Tars said.  Good luck with whatever you decide.
John & Teri
Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180
E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3
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