Bought a camper (isn't a pod)

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MD requires an inspection for used trailers, and yesterday mine passed with no problems.  Yay!  I knew the prior owners hadn't travelled much with it and the inspection tech mentioned the brake pads all measure nearly new (within something like 0.005 inches).  I now have all the paperwork to finally transfer the title and transfer the registration/plates from the pod, although I need to find a notary for the bill of sale first. 
I've knocked a lot off the to-do list so far.  New door catches (cargo and man door), an extra work light on the side, repair the front work light, convert all the existing fixtures to LEDs, re-caulk a spot where it was necessary, check the lug nuts and tires, fix a propane leak by the tanks, fix a trim piece inside, fill the LP tanks, once-over on all appliances, tighten up the cargo door locks, extra keys for the man door. 
Still to come:  new bathroom fan (which means replacing the whole vent assembly), another work light at the rear, clean the A/C coils, new curtains, additional turn/brake lights mounted high up (like I did with the pod), add a receiver hitch, add a few shelves, fix the fresh water tank vent line, and possibly adjust the WDH.

Camping is a lot of work.  

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techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Topic: Bought a camper (isn't a pod) Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 2:03pm
	MD requires an inspection for used trailers, and yesterday mine passed with no problems. Yay! I knew the prior owners hadn't travelled much with it and the inspection tech mentioned the brake pads all measure nearly new (within something like 0.005 inches). I now have all the paperwork to finally transfer the title and transfer the registration/plates from the pod, although I need to find a notary for the bill of sale first. I've knocked a lot off the to-do list so far. New door catches (cargo and man door), an extra work light on the side, repair the front work light, convert all the existing fixtures to LEDs, re-caulk a spot where it was necessary, check the lug nuts and tires, fix a propane leak by the tanks, fix a trim piece inside, fill the LP tanks, once-over on all appliances, tighten up the cargo door locks, extra keys for the man door. Still to come: new bathroom fan (which means replacing the whole vent assembly), another work light at the rear, clean the A/C coils, new curtains, additional turn/brake lights mounted high up (like I did with the pod), add a receiver hitch, add a few shelves, fix the fresh water tank vent line, and possibly adjust the WDH. Camping is a lot of work.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Posted: 03 Oct 2014 at 9:02am
	I have issues breathing in high humidity so I could see myself doing the same thing. Ironically it isn't a possibility at home, either, due to the all-in one thermostats. After seeing all the issues with the digital thermostats on this forum, I'm glad my pod had the old manual type (the new camper does, too). My TV has a similar problem. The clock on the radio. It is there when the radio is on or off. If the key is out of the ignition you can bring up the clock by pushing a button. But make or receive a cell phone call (via bluetooth which routes through the radio) and the clock goes away. Pushing a button will bring it up, right? No. So right when I'm likely to be telling someone when I'm going to arrive, or be late, I have to look at my watch to see what time it is. A lot of people don't wear watches anymore so they would have to fumble for their cell phone - and the whole reason for that bluetooth connection is so they don't have to fumble with their cell phone while driving.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

Budward Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 21 Apr 2014 Location: SC/NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 438	Posted: 03 Oct 2014 at 4:39am
	Yep high tech is not a good thing when camping when old school low tech does the job just fine. I'm going to mount a second t'stat in my pod at some point for the heater and not have it run off the digital Dometic one that controls the heater and the A/C in one unit. Had a humidity issue on a trip when it rained for 24+ hours in the pacific northwest- really wanted to run the A/C to dehumidify while running the heater at the same time to keep the temperature warm enough. Have done that in the past with old school campers, can't do it now with new stuff. BTW how stupid is it that the Dometic t'stat can show you the current temp but NOT when heat or A/C is running, you have to turn them off to check the current temp.
	2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle!

CharlieM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797	Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 10:43pm
	Insane? Yes. I foresee the next "improvement" will be a small internal circulating fan, which will of course, require 120 VAC!
	Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 10:13pm
	Wow, that is insane. They keep going backwards. From fridges needing no power for LP mode, to needing some no matter what, and now making them so they are sucking down 12 additional amps (on top of what the fridge control board uses) and giving you no way to stop it. I just checked the manual for my Dometic and this is what it says: "Note that when turned on, the climate control will draw 12 VDC power continuously. Turn it off when a charging source is not available." And now that is a permanent feature. Right.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

CharlieM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797	Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 9:48pm
	Doug, We tech types who have moved on to bigger campers (Camplite 21) with a bigger fridge (Dometic 7 cu ft) ran head on into this issue. These new Dometics have a 6 watt wire heater that runs off 12 VDC 24/7 and has no switch. They call it a "feature". They used to provide a switch, but either cost or customer confusion led them to delete it. Now it sucks 12 AH per day with no hint in the manual. Several of us have now installed switches to disable same when on battery power. Welcome to the bigger world.
	Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

Budward Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 21 Apr 2014 Location: SC/NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 438	Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 8:04pm
	You stirred a long lost memory....seems like I ran into that condensation heater thing on a Norcold.
	2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle!

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 11:24am
	I discovered something last night while doing some work on the Salem. When we did a test camp a few weeks ago, no hookups, I wondered why the lights were noticably dimmer by the 2nd day. I forgot my voltage meter so I couldn't do an actual voltage reading, but with incandescent lights its easy to get a seat-of-the-pants low/med/high reading. When I ran the generator they were back to full brightness so I could compare, plus that confirmed there wasn't a wiring issue somewhere. New battery which I had purchased for the pod before this summer's big trip, it was fully charged before we left, plus a good charge line on the TV, and the fridge doesn't even have a DC mode so I didn't accidentally kill the battery that way. We were careful about not using too many lights and turning them off (I've now switched to LED lights). So that eliminates just about every reason. My discovery last night is probably the answer. The fridge doesn't have a DC mode, but it does have a hidden switch that I stumbled on, which controls external condensation. Via a 12 volt heater. Like running a big light bulb 24/7. While I was trying to conserve since we were off-grid. Yeah. That little hidden switch got turned off really quickly. Why isn't that switch right on the main control panel? Who knows. At least I now know about it. I never got around to installing a permanent voltmeter or shunt (to measure amps via a voltage reading) on the pod, but I think it is on my long-term to-do list now for the new camper.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

techntrek Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059	Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 10:36am
	The wood stove option must have been special to the 2013 models.
	Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual

Budward Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 21 Apr 2014 Location: SC/NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 438	Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 4:57am
	I'm betting they had a wooden stove cover
	2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle!