Keeping refrigarator cold while driving - Event Date: 26 Jul 2014

Doug, I went through the same thing when I was looking at fridges.  I was able to find an archived version of the page that wasn't working:
http://web.archive.org/web/20120417130738/http://www.equipt1.com/Company%20Product%20Images/Indel%20B/Downloads/Indel%20B%20Travel%20Box%20Test%20and%20Comparison%20Report.pdf

If that doesn't work for you, I have the pdf save and can send it to you.

-Matt

I read the article I linked to above, and then went looking for info on the Indel B, which is what that truckfridges website sells.  Looks like they are also sold at the equipt1 web site.  They submitted the 50 liter model to Overland Journal for the same testing done on the other fridges, and the results are discussed below.  Unforutnately the full report they link to (both in the thread I link to below and at the equipt1 web site) does not work.

My ARB, I actually measured it yesterday, draws 4A at startup, which drops to around 3.5 after a minute or so, then oddly rises to around 5A after several minutes.  I'm guessing that has to do with pressures in the system.

It is difficult to compare different fridge's actual 24 hour current draw, since there doesn't appear to be a standardized test.   Maybe someone has done one and published it but I haven't found it.
    
 A lower draw compressor is of course meaningless if the insulation is poor and it runs a lot more.

One plus to any of them when actually on the move and planning an overnight stop at a WalMart or truck stop-   they don't have to be anywhere near level like the absorption fridges.   I've spent the night at several that were pretty far off and that was a concern. 
Off level can not only cause poor cooling it can actually ruin an absorption fridge from what I've read.
On our upcoming long trip we plan to travel light in the perishable dept, if it doesn't fit in the ARB it isn't going.  Once we approach a destination where we'll be for awhile then we'll restock the Dometic.


When I built my own interior in the Four Wheel truck camper shell model I bought,  I used a NovaKool marine 12v compressor fridge, no worries about stopping wherever whenever as to off level.  Only draw back is yes on a long term (several days) stop the 12v consumption can be an issue, but then we never did that in the truck camper.
BTW it also uses a Danfoss compressor and still going strong after 10+ years.


What would be really "Cool" (pun intended) would be if someone made an RV absorption fridge that ALSO had a 12V compressor.  Best of both worlds, superior cooling when on compressor with a lower current draw than the present 12V heater/absorption mode, but had the efficient propane when needed.

Thank you Charlie.  Great information.

Originally posted by Harry Now I have a really dumb question.   In the past I have owned three campers, all with one version or another of a 3-way Dometic fridge. While camped and running on propane, the first moderate gust of wind would blow out the pilot light.  Driving with the pilot light on would be out of the question.  I wouldn't even get out of my driveway and expect it to remain lit. Once I got the 176T, I assumed this would be the same situation, so I continued to drive with the fridge on 12V.  Yet, with a few exceptions, the general opinion in this forum is to run the fridge on propane while driving.  So.... how does the pilot light remain lit while driving at 60 mph?  Or, is there no pilot light and it lights electronically on demand?

The answer is yes and yes. First, there is no pilot. The main burner ignites via an electronic spark when needed. Second, the manufacturers have gotten better at shielding the flame from wind. My old campers had pilots and I had the same troubles. These new ones: no problem.