|
|
Post Reply 
|
Page 123> |
| Author |
 Share Topic Printable Version Google Delicious Digg StumbleUpon Windows Live Yahoo Bookmarks reddit Facebook MySpace Newsvine Furl Topic Search  Topic Options
|
techntrek 
Admin Group - pHp 
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
 Topic: operating refrigerator on gas--HELPPosted: 31 Jul 2014 at 10:46pm |
|
And the AC mode will maintain the temperature so you aren't using propane until you start your shower.
|
|
 |
|
|
CharlieM
Senior Member 
Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2014 at 10:29am |
When at a campsite with hookups the WH can run both electric and gas at the same time. This effectively doubles the recovery rate, heating the water much faster. |
|
|
Charlie
Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
|
|
|
|
Harry
Newbie 
Joined: 10 Jul 2014 Location: Nova Scotia Online Status: Offline Posts: 38 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2014 at 10:18am |
|
Agree. Thank you.
|
|
|
2013 R-pod 176T
TV: 2013 Honda Ridgeline 3.5 L 4WD |
|
|
|
|
Harry
Newbie
Joined: 10 Jul 2014 Location: Nova Scotia Online Status: Offline Posts: 38 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2014 at 10:16am |
|
Hi Henksailor:
Sorry for the previous reply; it was misdirected.
I think what you experienced with the blinking light on your fridge was the fridge trying to light up on propane, but the line had air in it, and it timed out, or, in common vernacular, it gave up trying. You'll see people referring to "bleeding the propane line", a common practice in all RV's whenever the tank is removed or changed. Simply, air gets in the line and has to be removed. Assuming your stove is downstream of the fridge, as it is in my 176T, simply turn on one of your stove burners, and repeatedly try to light it until it finally does light. This means the air is gone from the system, and you can now light your fridge normally. You may also experience the same problem lighting your furnace and hot water tank (on propane) after air has entered the line. Use the same trick with the stove. On the hot water tank, the dealer was showing you the AC power switch which is partially hidden behind some of the propane plumbing on the front of the tank. Push the switch down to turn on AC power. To switch over to propane hot water, shut off the AC power on the tank, and turn on the propane inside the rpod (in my case, just inside the entrance door). If I need hot water quickly after setting up, I will start up the tank on propane, and then switch to AC power once it is hot. Most of the time, though, in campgrounds, it remains on AC. Happy exploring! Even after a year, I continue to discover new things about my 'pod. I just learned yesterday that a 3/4 socket wrench and ratchet easily opens and closes the slide-out if there is a breakdown or no power. Good to know! |
|
|
2013 R-pod 176T
TV: 2013 Honda Ridgeline 3.5 L 4WD |
|
|
|
|
Harry
Newbie
Joined: 10 Jul 2014 Location: Nova Scotia Online Status: Offline Posts: 38 |
Posted: 31 Jul 2014 at 8:31am |
|
Thank you. My suspicions are the same as yours.
|
|
|
|
|
henksailor
Newbie
Joined: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Michigan Online Status: Offline Posts: 5 |
Posted: 30 Jul 2014 at 10:46pm |
|
Since this is our first RV, too, I have some questions about operating the fridge. I had a fully charged battery and attempted to turn the fridge on, first with electrical - which it fired right up. Next I tried to switch it to propane (tank valve was open), but the warning light on the right end of the control pad began flashing and beeping. The fridge wasn't running. When I cycled it back to electric, it stopped the warning. What was that about?
We are taking the pod out for it's maiden voyage this weekend, just a local run to a campground to hook it up to 30A and make sure that all of the systems work. A little concerned about firing up the water heater, furnace, tv, microwave/convection, using the water pump and having everything work as it should. Speaking of which, turning on the water heater, I think he showed us a valve or igniter behind the panel on the outside of the RV that had to be turned on or something. Anyone that could walk me through the steps for that? (Model 177 pod) Thanks! |
|
|
'13 Silverado Z71 4x4 Crew Cab
'14 RPod 177 (Uncle Ed) 2 big labs and one large mutt (our 4-legged crew, hence the crew cab) |
|
|
|
|
techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 30 Jul 2014 at 10:11pm |
|
It sounds like a textbook case of battery sulphation. I'd bet the tender isn't working right. Time for a new battery.
|
|
|
|
|
Harry
Newbie
Joined: 10 Jul 2014 Location: Nova Scotia Online Status: Offline Posts: 38 |
Posted: 29 Jul 2014 at 10:30pm |
|
Thanks for all the comments and information.
Unfortunately, my battery lasted only about five hours with only the fridge running (on propane) and the other uncontrollable(s) - the Propane detector you mentioned. As soon as the power failure happened (about 2:00 pm local time), I shut everything down that I could, thinking I would save the battery for lights and water pump for that evening. No such luck. And this was after the battery had been charging from the on-board power supply for over 24 hours. The battery was first used a year ago, and was stored in my basement with a tender attached. Text-book perfect storage, or so I thought. I'll haul it out within the week and get it load tested, and decide what to do from there. I do like Willthrill's suggestion of the golf cart batteries. I used a couple of scooter gel-cell batteries in my previous RV, a pop-up, and they worked very well. But, back to the original point, that little pop-up had a fridge that worked very well on propane with no battery in the vehicle at all. Convince me we have made progress. Thanks again.
|
|
|
|
|
techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 29 Jul 2014 at 4:57pm |
|
As for the need for 12 volt power even when using propane mode, this is one area where camper technology has backtracked, IMO. Older camper fridges didn't need it. Yes, between the LPG detector and the fridge "brains", you'll only go 2-3 days w/o some means to recharge. Far less if you use the heater (the heater is the biggest propane and DC hog in the camper), or the lights too much.
|
|
|
|
|
techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 29 Jul 2014 at 4:53pm |
|
Don't worry about it. I discussed the properties of gasoline in prior discussions here, which make it nearly impossible for the flame at the back of your fridge to be a danger at a gas station.
Gasoline fumes are heavier than air, they stick low to the ground. The fridge is 2-3 feet off of the ground, well away from any fumes. Plus, those gasoline fumes will be mixed heavily with the surrounding air, which brings up the next point. Gasoline has a very narrow flammability limit. Just a little too much air and it won't ignite. Finally, gasoline fumes are controlled before they even escape. For years many states required vapor recovery systems at fueling stations. The fuel pumps had the collapsible rubber "boots" which pressed against your car while in place. This sucked the vapors into a filter while the fuel entered the tank. This is no longer required in many states since onboard fuel vapor recovery systems have been on cars since 2000 and light trucks since 2006, so since a high percentage of cars on the road now have this, some states have eliminated the requirement at fuel stations. If you want to turn your fridge off, it is the safest option of course. But necessary, no.
|
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
Page 123> |
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
operating refrigerator on gas--HELP
