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Sandybeach
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Topic: Connecting a 100 watt solar panel to Zamp port Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 4:20pm |
Will Thrill
"However, a solar panel with a smart charge controller (NEVER use a solar trickle charger with a solar panel rated above 15 watts;"
I am pretty new to this- How do I know if the controller I got with my little 40 W solar panel is trickle or smart? I bought a foldable 40W solar panel at Canada Tire last year end of season with a little controller. I think it might be Coleman and it was $99.
I also have some more dumb questions.
1. Do i have to check my factory battery for water occasionally? 2. When i use my Honda 2000 generator at first we just plugged our devices into the Honda. Then we got smart and plugged the Honda into the rpod electric with a adapter. Is that Ok and does that charge the batteries or not?
I will say we just got back from Acadia, dry camping for 9 days and no real issues with power. We have 2 batteries, used those for lights and water pump. Used the generator for a bit in AM when we needed to charge our devices. WE set up the small solar every day and I was always around 2 to 3 dots of battery power. I was surprised.
Also 1 tank of propane kept fridge going all week, plus a few kettles of water.
THank you for all the help
Sandy
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2015 Rpod 178
2006 Toyota 4 runner
1 happy husband after 25 yrs of tenting.
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WillThrill
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Joined: 04 Jul 2014
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 5:19pm |
Originally posted by Sandybeach
Will Thrill
"However, a solar panel with a smart charge controller (NEVER use a solar trickle charger with a solar panel rated above 15 watts;"
I am pretty new to this- How do I know if the controller I got with my little 40 W solar panel is trickle or smart? I bought a foldable 40W solar panel at Canada Tire last year end of season with a little controller. I think it might be Coleman and it was $99. |
I've checked the manual, and it is indeed a 3 stage (smart) controller.
When you aren't using your batteries, you'll need to leave your solar panel connected to your batteries in order to keep them fully charged, leave your Pod plugged in when in storage, or else move the batteries to a location where they can be charged by a 120v outlet charger. Every minute that a lead acid battery isn't 100% charged is doing some amount of irreversible damage to it. But keep in mind that five years is about the upper limit to typical RV batteries' lifespan.
Originally posted by Sandybeach
1. Do i have to check my factory battery for water occasionally? |
Yes, if you can. Most marine/deep cycle batteries have little caps on top of the battery that can be popped off, revealing the six cells inside (2 volts each). The water level should be to the bottom of the little tabs that stick down inside. If they aren't slowly and carefully refill them with distilled water only; this is available from your local grocery store. Be sure to wear eye protection, gloves, and old clothes when doing this. Any drop of acid that gets on your clothes will eat a hole through them in a little while. This process should be done every six months or so.
Some deep cycle batteries are sealed, preventing you from refilling them.
Originally posted by Sandybeach
2. When i use my Honda 2000 generator at first we just plugged our devices into the Honda. Then we got smart and plugged the Honda into the rpod electric with a adapter. Is that Ok and does that charge the batteries or not? |
Yes, that is fine and will charge your batteries using the Pod's onboard converter/charger. A 'dog bone' adapter is generally preferred over the 'hockey puck' style adapters, but both will work.
Originally posted by Sandybeach
I will say we just got back from Acadia, dry camping for 9 days and no real issues with power. We have 2 batteries, used those for lights and water pump. Used the generator for a bit in AM when we needed to charge our devices. WE set up the small solar every day and I was always around 2 to 3 dots of battery power. I was surprised. |
To check the state of your batteries accurately, you need to use a voltmeter. There are several ways of doing this, depending on how 'permanent' you want to make it. The fastest way is to get a $10 voltmeter and manually check the DC voltage of the batteries. Here's a guide: 12.6 = 100%, 12.4 = 75%, 12.2 = 50%, 12.0 = 25%. You don't want to go below 50% unless you really need to as this begins to do long-term harm to the batteries.
LED lights draw very little power, and the water uses a fair amount when running, but it's not running for long periods usually. Your refrigerator will draw a bit when running on propane, but not much.
Originally posted by Sandybeach
Also 1 tank of propane kept fridge going all week, plus a few kettles of water. |
One 20# tank of propane will generally keep your refrigerator, water heater (running only when needed), and stove going for at least 2-3 weeks. To check the propane level inside, pour some hot water down the side and then feel for the line where the tank goes from warm to cold; that's the amount of propane you have left. Keep in mind that a 'full' propane tank is at 80% of its capacity.
Originally posted by Sandybeach
THank you for all the help |
That's what this forum is all about.
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"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien
2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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Rustler
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Joined: 07 May 2016
Location: S. Oregon Coast
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 9:07pm |
Originally posted by WillThrill
[QUOTE=Sandybeach]Will Thrill
To check the state of your batteries accurately, you need to use a voltmeter. There are several ways of doing this, depending on how 'permanent' you want to make it. The fastest way is to get a $10 voltmeter and manually check the DC voltage of the batteries. Here's a guide: 12.6 = 100%, 12.4 = 75%, 12.2 = 50%, 12.0 = 25%. You don't want to go below 50% unless you really need to as this begins to do long-term harm to the batteries.
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You've given a lot of very sound counsel here, WillThrill. I would like to add that it is beneficial that your volt meter is accurate to 2 decimal places. Measuring to the 1/10th volt is usually very approximate if measuring battery state of charge. Most often the final digit at the end is plus or minus 1 digit. With 2 digits (1/100) the measured state of charge (SOC) is more accurate.
It's best that the battery is neither being charged or discharged when taking the voltage measurement - the rest voltage. This chart gives the SOC at rest.
Voltage also varies with temperature and flow of current into or out of the battery. The following link gives a good discussion of SOC when the battery is not at rest:
With all the variables in play, measurement of state of charge is not exact. But it can be of some use nonetheless.
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Russ
2009 Toyota RAV4
V6 w/ tow package
2016 Rpod 171 HRE
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WillThrill
Senior Member
Joined: 04 Jul 2014
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Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 9:54pm |
Originally posted by Rustler
Originally posted by WillThrill
[QUOTE=Sandybeach]Will Thrill
To check the state of your batteries accurately, you need to use a voltmeter. There are several ways of doing this, depending on how 'permanent' you want to make it. The fastest way is to get a $10 voltmeter and manually check the DC voltage of the batteries. Here's a guide: 12.6 = 100%, 12.4 = 75%, 12.2 = 50%, 12.0 = 25%. You don't want to go below 50% unless you really need to as this begins to do long-term harm to the batteries.
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You've given a lot of very sound counsel here, WillThrill. I would like to add that it is beneficial that your volt meter is accurate to 2 decimal places. Measuring to the 1/10th volt is usually very approximate if measuring battery state of charge. Most often the final digit at the end is plus or minus 1 digit. With 2 digits (1/100) the measured state of charge (SOC) is more accurate.
It's best that the battery is neither being charged or discharged when taking the voltage measurement - the rest voltage. This chart gives the SOC at rest.
Voltage also varies with temperature and flow of current into or out of the battery. The following link gives a good discussion of SOC when the battery is not at rest:
With all the variables in play, measurement of state of charge is not exact. But it can be of some use nonetheless. |
All very true. Checking the specific gravity of each cell is another excellent means of measuring state of charge, and it's even more reliable than a voltmeter but obviously far less convenient. I didn't want to get too far in depth with everything for a new person considering that there are literal volumes of information about lead acid batteries.
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"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien
2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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Don Halas
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Joined: 01 Jul 2015
Location: Connecticut
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Posts: 190
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Posted: 17 Jul 2016 at 1:37pm |
As promised, the finished project:
First, the primary purpose for my solar installation is to remove the need to supply 120v from my house during the summer when the Pod sits in my yard. There will be infrequent need for power resources mostly limited to the parasitic draw. Occasionally the fan, radio or lights might be used for a short period of time when in my yard. We do not intend on doing a lot of off the grid, dry camping. In fact, we we will probably never go more than 48 hours relying solely on Pod power. So it's requirements on the road are, at this point minimal.
So, the installation includes a flexible HQST monocrystaline 12V 100watt flexible panel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017OMTAV6/ref=od_aui_detailpages03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The panel is being attached to the Pod using 1" wide Extreme Industrial Velcro (brand) tape. The original intent was to have 3 configurations I could mount the panel depending on the angle of the sun. There was a Major fail with this. The velcro sticks against the two tapes extremely well, the adhesive against the Pod vinyl fails when the tape is wet!
So, I am now augmenting the 1" velcro with 1/2" VHB tape. The tape is helping secure the Velcro to the Pod vinyl. I'll keep an eye on this as I thing the real problem is the vinyl on the Pod itself and it's being a poor recipient of the glue.
I have also put 1/2" foam insulation tape surrounding the panel mounting. The intent is to reduce any air that might try to get under the panel by wind. It may also reduce water to the velcro, but that would be a plus and beyond the original requirement.
The panel is wired into a Morning Star Sun Saver charge controller. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017OA5DH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The charge controller is capable of managing a second 100 watt solar panel if that's what I need in the future. It looks like a good fit and so far seems to be performing well.
The charge controller is mounted in the battery box. I needed to get a larger box for this, but it only cost about $8.00. Connectors cost more than that!
I also installed a voltmeter/ammeter to measure the charge between the charge controller and the battery. This is more flash than function but it will help acknowledge the suns yield.
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WillThrill
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Posted: 17 Jul 2016 at 8:47pm |
It looks great Don! I particularly like that you have an ammeter in addition to a voltmeter so you can easily exactly how much currently is flowing to your battery.
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"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien
2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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Don Halas
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Location: Connecticut
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Posts: 190
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Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 3:37pm |
Am I correct in my assumption that the charge controller will maintain the battery charge and provide whatever solar energy is available towards any load demand?
Or conversely will all available solar power go to the load and any excess be used to maintain the battery?
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WillThrill
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Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 7:14pm |
Originally posted by Don Halas
Am I correct in my assumption that the charge controller will maintain the battery charge and provide whatever solar energy is available towards any load demand?
Or conversely will all available solar power go to the load and any excess be used to maintain the battery?
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It depends on how your charge controller is wired up. Usually, there's just one output from the charge controller: the line going to the battery. There is another output available which can be used to directly power 12 volt devices, but this is rarely used since a cloud or someone just walking in front of the panel will make the output drop too low to be usable.
So in a normal situation where the controlled is just charging the battery, any load on the battery will simply extend the length of time it takes to recharge the battery.
This means that the answer to both of your questions is 'yes'.
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"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien
2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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Don Halas
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Joined: 01 Jul 2015
Location: Connecticut
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Posts: 190
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Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 9:22am |
Thanks Will.
Clarification on the 'load' side of the charge controller. This option only works if there is a battery present, presumably to avoid the issue you mention and assure adequate power (assuming the battery is capable of supplying what the sun can't)
I am not using the load terminals. They'd probably only be of use for a utility light or some other low power appliance. The Pod already has a light.
I've also been thinking about the unused Zamp wiring. I may rig up a 12 volt adapter to it. Should be simple since it's wired directly to the battery. All I'd need is a fuse and either an SAE to 12v adapter or replace the existing SAE on the side of the pod. I really don't like making any physical changes to the Pods exterior so I'd approach that option with reservation.
An alternative would be in the event I wanted to add a suit case panel in addition to the semi-permanent panel on the roof. I could re-wire the Zamp wires from their current mount on the battery and run them through the charge controller with the other panel (parallel). Then I could use the Zamp connection on the rear as intended without the need for an additional charge controller.
Of course, neither of these modifications are necessary or even practical now. I just can't help but think about this sh*t.
Thanks again.
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ron/roscoe
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Joined: 13 May 2016
Location: Hanahan, SC
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Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 11:37am |
My solar panel was 10 watts, way to small to see a difference. I park my pod in a field so I just installed a battery switch in the top of the battery box. It works great, my battery stays charged. I just turn on the switch when I need power. It is a new battery. Every two months, and I take the battery to my home and plug it in. Switch costs less than $10.
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Ron Rowland
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