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Hunter74
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Topic: Connecting a 100 watt solar panel to Zamp port Posted: 16 Dec 2016 at 4:10pm |
Originally posted by bigcat
Hi everyone, there is some awesome info on this thread! I'm a newbie to RVing, and solar, so I am trying to wrap my head around how to get started. I have a 2017 179 with a Zamp port installed by FR. We will mostly be boondocking and I prefer solar over a loud generator. I've been looking at the Renogy panels because they get great reviews, and are much more affordable than the Zamp kits. I'm looking for a way to connect the Renogoy (or other non-Zamp panels) to the Zamp port so I can take advantage of the wiring that FR has already done. Is this even possible? On the Zamp site they call out that they replaced the Anderson Connector with a proprietary connector, so am I stuck with having to go with a Zamp panel and connector? Many thanks in advance! Ty |
Yes there is. I have a 120 Watt of another company. The dealship where I bought my trailer had zamp plugs with about a foot of wire, and my solar panels came with alligator clips to plug into the panel or an eyelet plug to attach to the panel. The dealership snipped of the eyelets on the one plug and spliced the zamp plug onto it. Works like a charm. I love my solar panels when camping. You don't have to be as conscious of using lights at night or the radio for a few hours to have tunes outside.
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bigcat
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Posted: 16 Dec 2016 at 12:45pm |
Hi everyone, there is some awesome info on this thread! I'm a newbie to RVing, and solar, so I am trying to wrap my head around how to get started. I have a 2017 179 with a Zamp port installed by FR. We will mostly be boondocking and I prefer solar over a loud generator. I've been looking at the Renogy panels because they get great reviews, and are much more affordable than the Zamp kits. I'm looking for a way to connect the Renogoy (or other non-Zamp panels) to the Zamp port so I can take advantage of the wiring that FR has already done. Is this even possible? On the Zamp site they call out that they replaced the Anderson Connector with a proprietary connector, so am I stuck with having to go with a Zamp panel and connector?
Many thanks in advance! Ty
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Big Cat
2017 179
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Don Halas
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Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 4:11pm |
No, installation in detail with pictures in previous pages of this discussion.
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ron/roscoe
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Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 2:33pm |
Do you plug in the 100 watt panel to the port on the outside of the pod?
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Ron Rowland
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Don Halas
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Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 2:03pm |
I've got the switch, but it's no longer necessary since I installed the 100w panel. It's capable of keeping the battery charged and overcoming the parasitic battery drain. I can even use the fantastic fan during the day without worrying about the state of the battery.
This may change as the sun begins its seasonal decline, it's too soon to tell but I don't think I'll need to hook up to the house anymore unless I change where the Pod is parked.
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ron/roscoe
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Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 11:37am |
My solar panel was 10 watts, way to small to see a difference. I park my pod in a field so I just installed a battery switch in the top of the battery box. It works great, my battery stays charged. I just turn on the switch when I need power. It is a new battery. Every two months, and I take the battery to my home and plug it in. Switch costs less than $10.
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Ron Rowland
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Don Halas
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Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 9:22am |
Thanks Will.
Clarification on the 'load' side of the charge controller. This option only works if there is a battery present, presumably to avoid the issue you mention and assure adequate power (assuming the battery is capable of supplying what the sun can't)
I am not using the load terminals. They'd probably only be of use for a utility light or some other low power appliance. The Pod already has a light.
I've also been thinking about the unused Zamp wiring. I may rig up a 12 volt adapter to it. Should be simple since it's wired directly to the battery. All I'd need is a fuse and either an SAE to 12v adapter or replace the existing SAE on the side of the pod. I really don't like making any physical changes to the Pods exterior so I'd approach that option with reservation.
An alternative would be in the event I wanted to add a suit case panel in addition to the semi-permanent panel on the roof. I could re-wire the Zamp wires from their current mount on the battery and run them through the charge controller with the other panel (parallel). Then I could use the Zamp connection on the rear as intended without the need for an additional charge controller.
Of course, neither of these modifications are necessary or even practical now. I just can't help but think about this sh*t.
Thanks again.
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WillThrill
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Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 7:14pm |
Originally posted by Don Halas
Am I correct in my assumption that the charge controller will maintain the battery charge and provide whatever solar energy is available towards any load demand?
Or conversely will all available solar power go to the load and any excess be used to maintain the battery?
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It depends on how your charge controller is wired up. Usually, there's just one output from the charge controller: the line going to the battery. There is another output available which can be used to directly power 12 volt devices, but this is rarely used since a cloud or someone just walking in front of the panel will make the output drop too low to be usable.
So in a normal situation where the controlled is just charging the battery, any load on the battery will simply extend the length of time it takes to recharge the battery.
This means that the answer to both of your questions is 'yes'.
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"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien
2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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Don Halas
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Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 3:37pm |
Am I correct in my assumption that the charge controller will maintain the battery charge and provide whatever solar energy is available towards any load demand?
Or conversely will all available solar power go to the load and any excess be used to maintain the battery?
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WillThrill
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Posted: 17 Jul 2016 at 8:47pm |
It looks great Don! I particularly like that you have an ammeter in addition to a voltmeter so you can easily exactly how much currently is flowing to your battery.
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"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien
2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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