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spacemonkey 
Newbie 
Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 32 |
 Topic: I made an expensive mistakePosted: 18 Jul 2014 at 10:31pm |
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Hey guys, I made what may be an expensive mistake and need some advice! I moved into a new house with a workshop. The previous owner told me that the plug on the outside was for an rv. I looked at the plug. It said 30 amp and was the same plug as my rpod 177. I should have tested it before plugging in, but I got in a hurry and didn't. Lesson learned! Turns out it was wired wrong and was actually a 220. Doooooh!
The only thing I turned on was the ac. I noticed it making an odd noise, so I shut it off and unplugged the power. That's when I realized something was wrong. I'm very surprized that no breakers tripped or fuses burned out. Since doing this, my fridge, microwave and ac still seem to be operating fine..as far as I can tell. However it looks like my battery is no longer taking a charge. Can I assume that I will probably need to replace the power converter? Looks like the same model is running about 140 bucks. My tv/VCR combo seems to be fried too. I plugged it into an extension cord from an outlet in my house and it won't come on, so it looks like I'll have to replace that too. All the lights still come on off of battery power, but when I flip the water pump switch, it does not kick on. I'm not sure if it is fried, or If the power converter possibly being bad is keeping it from coming on. Can y'all think of anything else I need to check within the electrical system and electrical components? Thanks for your advise, and I hope someone can learn from my mistake. Always check the current before you plug in.
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp 
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 12:14am |
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Welcome. Somewhat common with home installations, unfortunately. First, get that outlet corrected. I would try the rest of your appliances from an extension cord if you havent already. Dont forget the fridge, it needs 12 volts to operate but it has a 120 volt heater for AC mode. First check the converters fuses and breakers before buying a new one - but i expect you are right.
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Budward
Senior Member 
Joined: 21 Apr 2014 Location: SC/NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 438 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 2:51am |
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Don't know how handy you are but I'd open up the convertor and TV looking to see if they have blown internal fuses. You might get lucky.
The water pump is puzzling though....it is 12V and shouldn't have been blown by an AC power issue. |
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2014 179
Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp 
Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 7:39am |
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Your converter does in fact have it's own fuses to protect it. Open the door on the power distribution pane. There should be 2 screws holding the whole cover assembly on, loosen those, they should be captive. the bottom of the cover should be "tabbed" lift it out and up. The box you see down below the breaker and fuse panel is the converter. On one end or the other should be 2-3 large automotive fusses, check those. The converter is on a 120v breaker so make sure they are all reset.
EDIT.. BTW, a plug in or hardwired surge protector will protect your trailer from such issues. We use the Progressive Industries hard wired. |
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CharlieM
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 9:11am |
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Spacemonkey,
I'm sorry to hear of you misfortune. I can only say There for he grace of Murphy go I. I could have made the same assumption about the socket. I hope the converter damage is limited to fuses, but if it's not and you have to replace the converter, consider upgrading to the Progressive Dynamics model PD4655V. This is a replacement converter section specifically designed to replace the WFCO 8955 in the Pod. http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600_converter_replacement.html I had the WFCO in my Pod and now have the PD in my Camplite. The PD "Charge Wizard" does a better job of equalizing the batteries and generally seems to be a more reliable product. I'm very happy with it. Replacement looks straightforward although disassembly/reassembly and disconnection/reconnection are required. The water pump is puzzling. It's a motor and should be fairly tolerant of momentary over voltage exposure. I would expect the converter fuses and/or the converter itself to blow first. Note that the water pump will not come on unless city water is disconnected and a Pod faucet is turned on. |
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Charlie
Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
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Budward
Senior Member
Joined: 21 Apr 2014 Location: SC/NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 438 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 9:21am |
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I'm in agreement on the PD units being better. I have one on hand for when the WFCO dies..in fact when I get time I will probably install it and place the WFCO in spare status.
I have read of numerous WFCO failures and rarely read of PD failures. I too like the Charge Wizard option- played with it some testing the PD, I especially like being able to force the unit into the different charging modes. |
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2014 179
Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
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spacemonkey
Newbie
Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 32 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 11:25am |
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Thank you so much for the replies. I definately will be rewiring the plug correctly.
I was not aware the the power converter had additional fuses besides those in the fuse box. I will definately check those before ordering a new one. If i do have to replace it, i will plan on the upgrade you guys mention. Thanks for that info. I see they have three different ones 35, 45 and 55 amp. The one you mention is a 55 amp. Is that the correct one for my trailer? As for the water pump. I will try messing with it again and make sure. I was not hooked into city water when i tried, however i did not open a faucet. In the past when i first switched on the pump it would make a momentary sound even with the faucets being off. Perhaps there is already enough pressure on the lines that it just did not kick on. I will recheck it to be sure. I consider myself pretty handy, so i will give pulling the tv apart and checking fuses. Cant hurt to try since it already doesnt work. Do yall know... are the fuses on the tv something easily replacable, or are they soldered to the circuit board? I guess I need to try my fridge again to make sure its working. O ran it for a half hour the other day while plugged in with the trailers shoreline and it seemed to work, but I suppose i should retest it again and make sure. I did not know you can plug it in to a power cord. Is the plug for it behind the panel on the outside of my trailer, or do I need to pull the fridge from the compartment to access it? Thanks again for all the advice. It at least gives me a place to start and the possibility of fixing these things myself. Hopefully your fixes will work. I will report back when I get a chance to look at it tomorrow. |
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spacemonkey
Newbie
Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 32 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 11:41am |
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another question... What about my water heater? I know its gas, but i think the igniter is electric? Is there anything i need to check in relation to my water heater that you can think of?
As for my ac unit. Is the best way to check it by plugging it in and letting it run for a half hour or so to see if it cools and then switch over to heat and make sure thats working too?
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Budward
Senior Member
Joined: 21 Apr 2014 Location: SC/NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 438 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 12:01pm |
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The standard convertor is 55 amp, but it would pay to check the label before ordering one, sometimes they substitute things.
The fridge has a plug inside the outside lower panel, just turn the fasteners 1/4 turn and pull the panel off. The only AC part in the fridge is the heating element when on AC. If the fridge wasn't on in AC mode it should be unharmed. All the controls are 12V. As for the TV fuses- they can be either- soldered in or plug in, probably soldered. The ignitor in the WH is 12V, unless the 110 AC element was switched on it should be good. I would run the aircon for awhile to be sure it is good. It probably doesn't have the optional heating element but it might. You might get off relatively cheaply- it could have been much worse up to burning the trailer down! |
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2014 179
Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
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CharlieM
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797 |
Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 12:25pm |
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Budward's got it covered. 'Nuff said. Just check everything.
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Charlie
Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
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I made an expensive mistake