I made an expensive mistake
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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4993
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Topic: I made an expensive mistake
Posted By: spacemonkey
Subject: I made an expensive mistake
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2014 at 10:31pm
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Hey guys, I made what may be an expensive mistake and need some advice! I moved into a new house with a workshop. The previous owner told me that the plug on the outside was for an rv. I looked at the plug. It said 30 amp and was the same plug as my rpod 177. I should have tested it before plugging in, but I got in a hurry and didn't. Lesson learned! Turns out it was wired wrong and was actually a 220. Doooooh! The only thing I turned on was the ac. I noticed it making an odd noise, so I shut it off and unplugged the power. That's when I realized something was wrong. I'm very surprized that no breakers tripped or fuses burned out. Since doing this, my fridge, microwave and ac still seem to be operating fine..as far as I can tell. However it looks like my battery is no longer taking a charge. Can I assume that I will probably need to replace the power converter? Looks like the same model is running about 140 bucks. My tv/VCR combo seems to be fried too. I plugged it into an extension cord from an outlet in my house and it won't come on, so it looks like I'll have to replace that too. All the lights still come on off of battery power, but when I flip the water pump switch, it does not kick on. I'm not sure if it is fried, or If the power converter possibly being bad is keeping it from coming on. Can y'all think of anything else I need to check within the electrical system and electrical components? Thanks for your advise, and I hope someone can learn from my mistake. Always check the current before you plug in.
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Replies:
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 12:14am
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Welcome. Somewhat common with home installations, unfortunately. First, get that outlet corrected. I would try the rest of your appliances from an extension cord if you havent already. Dont forget the fridge, it needs 12 volts to operate but it has a 120 volt heater for AC mode. First check the converters fuses and breakers before buying a new one - but i expect you are right.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 2:51am
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Don't know how handy you are but I'd open up the convertor and TV looking to see if they have blown internal fuses. You might get lucky. The water pump is puzzling though....it is 12V and shouldn't have been blown by an AC power issue. ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 7:39am
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Your converter does in fact have it's own fuses to protect it. Open the door on the power distribution pane. There should be 2 screws holding the whole cover assembly on, loosen those, they should be captive. the bottom of the cover should be "tabbed" lift it out and up. The box you see down below the breaker and fuse panel is the converter. On one end or the other should be 2-3 large automotive fusses, check those. The converter is on a 120v breaker so make sure they are all reset. EDIT.. BTW, a plug in or hardwired surge protector will protect your trailer from such issues. We use the Progressive Industries hard wired. ------------- |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 9:11am
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Spacemonkey, I'm sorry to hear of you misfortune. I can only say There for he grace of Murphy go I. I could have made the same assumption about the socket. I hope the converter damage is limited to fuses, but if it's not and you have to replace the converter, consider upgrading to the Progressive Dynamics model PD4655V. This is a replacement converter section specifically designed to replace the WFCO 8955 in the Pod. http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600_converter_replacement.html - http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600_converter_replacement.html I had the WFCO in my Pod and now have the PD in my Camplite. The PD "Charge Wizard" does a better job of equalizing the batteries and generally seems to be a more reliable product. I'm very happy with it. Replacement looks straightforward although disassembly/reassembly and disconnection/reconnection are required. The water pump is puzzling. It's a motor and should be fairly tolerant of momentary over voltage exposure. I would expect the converter fuses and/or the converter itself to blow first. Note that the water pump will not come on unless city water is disconnected and a Pod faucet is turned on. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 9:21am
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I'm in agreement on the PD units being better. I have one on hand for when the WFCO dies..in fact when I get time I will probably install it and place the WFCO in spare status. I have read of numerous WFCO failures and rarely read of PD failures. I too like the Charge Wizard option- played with it some testing the PD, I especially like being able to force the unit into the different charging modes. ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 11:25am
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Thank you so much for the replies. I definately will be rewiring the plug correctly. I was not aware the the power converter had additional fuses besides those in the fuse box. I will definately check those before ordering a new one. If i do have to replace it, i will plan on the upgrade you guys mention. Thanks for that info. I see they have three different ones 35, 45 and 55 amp. The one you mention is a 55 amp. Is that the correct one for my trailer? As for the water pump. I will try messing with it again and make sure. I was not hooked into city water when i tried, however i did not open a faucet. In the past when i first switched on the pump it would make a momentary sound even with the faucets being off. Perhaps there is already enough pressure on the lines that it just did not kick on. I will recheck it to be sure. I consider myself pretty handy, so i will give pulling the tv apart and checking fuses. Cant hurt to try since it already doesnt work. Do yall know... are the fuses on the tv something easily replacable, or are they soldered to the circuit board? I guess I need to try my fridge again to make sure its working. O ran it for a half hour the other day while plugged in with the trailers shoreline and it seemed to work, but I suppose i should retest it again and make sure. I did not know you can plug it in to a power cord. Is the plug for it behind the panel on the outside of my trailer, or do I need to pull the fridge from the compartment to access it? Thanks again for all the advice. It at least gives me a place to start and the possibility of fixing these things myself. Hopefully your fixes will work. I will report back when I get a chance to look at it tomorrow. |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 11:41am
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another question... What about my water heater? I know its gas, but i think the igniter is electric? Is there anything i need to check in relation to my water heater that you can think of? As for my ac unit. Is the best way to check it by plugging it in and letting it run for a half hour or so to see if it cools and then switch over to heat and make sure thats working too?
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Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 12:01pm
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The standard convertor is 55 amp, but it would pay to check the label before ordering one, sometimes they substitute things. The fridge has a plug inside the outside lower panel, just turn the fasteners 1/4 turn and pull the panel off. The only AC part in the fridge is the heating element when on AC. If the fridge wasn't on in AC mode it should be unharmed. All the controls are 12V. As for the TV fuses- they can be either- soldered in or plug in, probably soldered. The ignitor in the WH is 12V, unless the 110 AC element was switched on it should be good. I would run the aircon for awhile to be sure it is good. It probably doesn't have the optional heating element but it might. You might get off relatively cheaply- it could have been much worse up to burning the trailer down! ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 12:25pm
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Budward's got it covered. 'Nuff said. Just check everything.
------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 1:24pm
| Awesome. Thanks a million. I will do all those checks. Sounds like I may get away cheaper than I was thinking. The water heater was not in ac mode. The fridge was off but I'll check it anyways.. Thanks again. I will report back and let you know what I find. |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 2:20pm
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Spacemonkey, One last caution: make sure the rewired connector on you house is wired correctly. It's easy to interchange the hot and neutral wires. Best to check with a meter or a plug-in circuit checker with a 30A to 15 A adapter before hooking up that neat Pod again. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 6:08pm
| Thanks. Will do. I've got a buddy who is an electrician. I'll be having him do it for me. |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 4:40pm
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Ok, so i pulled the converter out a few minutes ago. It looks like at least one of the capacitors (i think thats what it is... a round almost c size battery looking thing) is swollen and split open. I assume this means i need to go ahead and order another convertor. Im not sure i really want to get into replacing stuff that is soldered onto the converter. Im going to go ahead and order the upgrade you guys mentioned. As for the fridge, i opened my panels and plugged in the fridge directly to a power cord, but could not get the thing to turn on. It turns on when plugged into the trailer, but not when on a power cord. I assume this is because the controls are 12 volt. Any way to get it to come on plugged in directly? still cannot get my water pump working. Im not sure why. Perhaps it has something to do with the converter being bad. I will try again once i get the new convertor installed. Thanks again for all your help. Ryan
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Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 4:45pm
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Ryan, any chance of some photos of the converter?
------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 4:57pm
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It does look like the converter is damaged. I might attempt a repair,
but you might just fix one problem and run into the next. Go for the PD
upgrade. The fridge needs 12V in addition to 120V to run, even on shore power. If it runs on shore power when connected to the Pod I'd guess it's OK. The 120V stuff in the fridge is just a heater element and is rather tolerant to momentary over voltage exposure. I think you said the fridge was not set to AC when the incident occurred. The electronics, running on 12V are more sensitive, but they are also isolated from the AC line and protected by the battery. On the pump, make sure the pump fuse in the power center is good. Check it with an ohmmeter. Maybe someone with your model Pod can tell us if there is another fuse inline near the pump. I'd really be surprised if over voltage on the AC line got the 12V pump. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:06pm
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ok, here are some photos of the convertor. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/photo1.JPG - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/photo1.JPG https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/photo2.JPG - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/photo2.JPG
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Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:13pm
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That large round thing next to the transformer appears to be a capacitor and it appears swollen. I'd say it's toast. Chances are the higher voltage also took some of the surrounding semiconductors. FWIW there is a 5 Amp fuse, F1, below the two white rectangular devices (relays?). You could try replacing the capacitor and checking/replacing the fuse. However, if you're not experienced in electronic repair it's not worth it. Go with the PD. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:19pm
| yes the pump fuse is fine. my battery may be weak too since the convertor isnt charging it. Im getting some noise from it but it wont build up water pressure. |
Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:21pm
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Yup... The capacitor has been over loaded. You can replace the capacitor, but then you might be chasing the next issue. Sorry... bad luck. ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:22pm
| Thanks CharlieM. I think your probably right. Im going to just order another converter and be done with it. Im ready to go camping...haha |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:23pm
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Do the ceiling lights work at approx. normal brilliance? Are they LEDs or incandescent? If yes, the pump should work too. If not, you may be right about the battery. Do you have a voltmeter?
------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:24pm
Since the pump is 12V it probably was not effected. Can you jump another battery to your pod's battery or put a charger on it? ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 5:31pm
I'm a EE and could easily attempt the repair........but I wouldn't. I really like the PD much better. You're on the right track. I'd rather go camping too.  ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 10:28pm
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yes the ceiling lights work. they are incandescent. I tested the battery with my voltmeter and its putting out 12.5 volts. maybe this is just an unrelated bad pump. I will get it figured out. Now for the TV. So sorry to keep posting up more stuff, but you guys have been so much help so far. I pulled the TV apart, and I think your right about the fuse being blown. Lets hope that is all that is wrong. Below are some pictures. Here is the circuit board where the power cord came into the TV. I removed the cord from the white connecter at left in order to expose what I believe is the fuse that is blown. It says T2.5A 250V on it. Where can i get a replacement like this? Radio Shack? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo3.jpg - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo3.jpg I did a continuity test on it and got nothing. I have never tested a fuse of this sort before, but I assume the way I did it in the picture below should show continuity if the fuse was still good? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo5.jpg - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo5.jpg In this picture you can see what looks like a little black soot around the fuse. Kind of a dead giveaway to me that this is likely my problem. Whats your thoughts? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo4.jpg - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo4.jpg I am going to give this a whirl. I understand soldering. I have soldered electronics (mostly wires and pots) on electric guitars, but have never done anything on a circuit board. Ill see if i can find some good youtube vids on it too. Cant hurt to try. If i dont...the TV is toast anyways and I will still have to buy a new one. If I succeed, then i saved myself several hundred bucks on a new one. I just need to find the fuse. Do yall think radio shack will have them? |
Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 11:45pm
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I believe that is a slow blow fuse, 2.5 AMPS, 250V. That also explains the blow out black. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MULTICOMP-MST-T2-5A-250V-FUSE-SLOW-BLOW-8-335MM-LOT-OF-5-NNB-/151160015830?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2331d6cbd6 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/MULTICOMP-MST-T2-5A-250V-FUSE-SLOW-BLOW-8-335MM-LOT-OF-5-NNB-/151160015830?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2331d6cbd6 There might be a cheaper one elsewhere. Anything else look damaged? ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 11:51pm
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Here I found some... http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-pieces-250V-2-5A-Square-Slow-Blow-DIP-Mounted-Micro-Fuses-8-4-8mm-/171338345866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e48fad8a - http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-pieces-250V-2-5A-Square-Slow-Blow-DIP-Mounted-Micro-Fuses-8-4-8mm-/171338345866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e48fad8a Of course you will be the keeper of the TV fuses for Rpods...  ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 5:27am
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If it was me- I'd jump that fuse with a very small wire, soldered across the two spots you measured at. If the TV works then hunt down the proper fuse, if the strand burns out or the tv doesn't work, stop there and head to the trash can. Again this is what I'd do...YMMV and all that.  ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 9:08am
I tend to agree with Budward. If the TV works the fuse protected the rest of the components and you are lucky. Use a small piece of wire like a single strand from a larger stranded wire. If it doesn't work nothing lost. Replacement fuses are available, cheaper than Ebay, from Amazon : http://www.amazon.com/Mounted-Miniature-Square-Micro-T2-5A/dp/B009PMJ082/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1405946333&sr=8-6&keywords=t2.5a+250v - http://www.amazon.com/Mounted-Miniature-Square-Micro-T2-5A/dp/B009PMJ082/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1405946333&sr=8-6&keywords=t2.5a+250v or Newark: http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mst-2-5a-250v/fuse-pcb-2-5a-250v-slow-blow/dp/95M6782?mckv=s5hvSBoxr|pcrid|45121758995|plid|&CMP=KNC-G-SKU-MDC - http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mst-2-5a-250v/fuse-pcb-2-5a-250v-slow-blow/dp/95M6782?mckv=s5hvSBoxr|pcrid|45121758995|plid|&CMP=KNC-G-SKU-MDC However, having had the TV in my 172 and judging by comments from others, I wouldn't invest a lot in it. It was a 7 or 9 inch under counter piece of junk. That was the only option I regretted ordering with the Pod. I'm not sure if the TV in the 179 is the same or the 19" model. The water pump remains a mystery. If you hear noise it might be running. Check for a clogged filter, broken or disconnected hose. Loose hose fittings have been reported which would let the pump suck air. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 2:12pm
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Let me quote from a new post by Obewan on RV.Net. "Was gone from the camper for a couple days and missed all the excitement! Neighbors tell me the campground experienced a large electrical surge. They lost tvs, small appliances, AC units, etc.. I lost NOTHING! Surge protector apparently worked as designed and I'm very glad I spent that money! Already recouped the cost in not having to replace anything! Smiling in an AC camper while I watch tv!!!" They had the plugin 30A SurgeGuard. 'Nuff said. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 1:14pm
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Ok, so got my new converter yesterday and almost got it completely installed, but i ran into something was unsure of. The Old WFCO fuse board has a 30 amp fuse for my slde out motor, but i was noticing the new board says 20 amp fuse max. (see Pictures below) Here is the new board. You will notice that in the center of the board it says max fuse rating 20 amp. http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo6.jpg - http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo6.jpg Here is the old board. In this pic you will notice the 30 amp fuse for my slideout motor. My question is how do i hook up the slideout motor to the new board? Do i have to use a 20 amp fuse? Is that sufficient for the slideout motor? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo7.jpg - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53650405/Photo7.jpg I also notice that on the old board there is a section for fuse 10 and 11 that says 30 amp for slideout only. The new board only has a section that is labeled "recommended for low current circuits" is this where i am supposed to put the slideout motor 30 amp fuse. Thanks for your help as im a little confused on this part.
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Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 1:26pm
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I'm not sure why PD included a new fuse board...if it was mine I'd just cable the new PD convertor to the existing WFCO fuse board, assuming it is good. In fact I did exactly that in another camper I once owned. ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 1:39pm
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There are a bunch of subtle differences. Can you call PD and ask them? ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 1:48pm
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yeah, i suppose i can give them a call. The new pd board has a button on it for the charge wizard that the old board did not have. There is a 4 wire harness that connects the the fuse board to the converter via a 4-pin header on both components. I suppose if i did not change out the fuse boards, the charge wizard would not work correctly!
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Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:11pm
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just spoke to PD and they were actually of little help. The guy i spoke with didnt have a clue as to how to remedy the situation. He said that the pd board is defiantly 20 amp max fuse rating. I asked about using the WFCO fuse board and he told me that the charge wizard would not work correctly without the new board. So im kind of at a standstill of what to do at the moment. How do i know what the amp rating on the slideout motor is? just curious if it actually draws more than 20 amps. Can just use a 20 amp fuse? He actually suggested that If i need a 30 amp fuse that It may be a good idea to return the PD and get another WFCO
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Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:11pm
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Here's my shot, remembering I never had a slide in my Pod: First, did you order the 55 amp replacement for the WFCO 8955? I'm surprised at the 30A battery protection fuses. My Camplite has a Schwintek slide and it is fused at 15A in the PD power panel. I don't know what slide FR is using, but the Schwintek is popular and common. It would help if you can find documentation on the slide, but sometimes that's difficult. Maybe a current owner can jump in and help. A fuse should be sized to protect the wire, not the slide. The slide should be wired with #10 wire, maybe #12. #10 is usually protected by a 30A fuse; #12 by a 20A fuse. A smaller fuse will always protect a larger wire, e.g. a 20A fuse will protect a #12 or #10 wire. If you can determine the wire size connected to the slide terminal in the original installation that may give you a clue. My guess, and hope, is FR wired with #10 for the slide and protected it with a 30A fuse. This will minimize voltage drop and is good. However, I suspect the slide never draws 30A. In the absence of any better info I would connect the slide to a position 3-12, for example 3,4, or 5 and not the low current slots. Fuse it with a 20A fuse. If you can accommodate the rest of your circuits without using slots 1-2 I would not use them. Try to maintain the original order, or at least the fuse sizing associated with the original functions, to make sure the wiring is adequately protected. I don't know what size wire was used on those 10 and 7.5 Amp circuits. For your protection I'd carry a few 30 Amp fuses just in case the slide really needs more than 20A on occasion. For those short times the #12 wire will be OK. If by chance the wire is #10 you'll be fine forever. This is a bit difficult by remote control and without a Pod at hand, but I think we've got it. That said, we know that no two Pods were built the same anyway. Keep us informed and don't hesitate to ask the next question. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:16pm
This would tell me the Wizard need some control and/or sensors on the fuse board. Try to use it until you can't. I think the 20A fuse will probably run the slide. Unfortunately the response from the PD guy is typical. Never mind they advertise and sell this unit as a replacement for the WFCO. Unfortunate, but not surprising. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:36pm
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ok, i went and looked at the wire. It is in fact #10 wire going from the fuse board to the motor. I also looked at the motor. It had a sticker on the back that says 18 to 1 ratio, max oper 30 amp, 12VDC. It is made by venture mfg of dayton ohio Oh, and yes the model PD i have is the 4655
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Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:39pm
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One way around the 30AMP fuse would be to use a relay. Have the 20AMP fuse power a 30AMP relay with a 30AMP inline fuse on the relay to power the slide out. Just a thought... ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:41pm
Good news on the wire. I guess I'd start with a 20A fuse and be prepared to change to 30A in the field. The slide probably doesn't really draw 30 Amps except for a start up pulse or if it's jammed. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:47pm
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Do you have a spare fuse location, you could parallel two 20A fuses to run the slide in a pinch. Sort of like WFCO did to provide reverse protection with two paralleled 40A fuses. You could even try 2 paralleled 15A fuses but they usually don't balance exactly so they may blow if it really draws 30. Interesting that the Charge Wizard button is on the fuse board, on the one I did it was a wired remote, which I like better anyway since you can mount the remote in a convenient spot to work it and be able to see the status LED. ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:47pm
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cap-n-cray, thanks for the thought. Im no expert with electrical and wouldn't have a clue how to do that...haha. Budward, i dont know how to wire it in parallel either...
 I will go get some 20amp fuses and try, but Im thinking my best bet may to be just return the PD and replace it with a WFCO and call it done. I dont really want to have to be changing out 20amp fuses to 30 amp fuses just to run my slideout
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Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:04pm
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It would be very easy. You would need to get a 30AMP relay, most automotive stores would have one, and a inline 30AMP inline fuse. Wire the normally open contacts on the relay through the 30AMP in line fuse from the battery and to the slide wire. Wire the relay's coil to the 20AMP (or smaller) on the panel.  Instead of the fuel pump the load would be the slide, 30. 86 would be from the out put of the panel. 85 would be ground. Everything should work like normal. ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:06pm
I'd feel ok with it- it isn't like you run the slide in and out all day long. ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:12pm
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Well, I'd hate to see you give up on the PD; it's just a so much better unit. The ideas from Cap-n-Cray and Budward are good, but a bit complicated for you. The relay requires some smarts and work; the parallel fuse idea is conceptually easy but requires tricks to make them share equally. I don't think you'd have trouble with even a 30A fuse on the board. There is very little in that circuit on the board, but they have to put some limit on it. Is there any trouble getting the #10 wire into the screw terminal? BTW, the troubleshooting guide on my Schwintek slide unit recommends a 30A fuse too, but LL fused it at 15A in the PD converter and it works great.
------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:15pm
I agree- and I'd pick the fuse nearest to the convertor DC input block. Minimize the amount of PC board foil to run through. Looks like the 4th and 5th up from the bottom. ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:15pm
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If you split the power like Budward suggested. It would be better to have two wires from the panel and wire nut them together with the 10 gauge slide out wire. I would hate to over load the new PD, but it should be protected by the fuses. ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 5:48pm
Both ways of paralleling the two fuses have the same problem The slightest difference in resistance between the two paths will prevent the fuses from sharing equally. This includes the wires, the circuit board paths and their solder joints, the fuse clips, and even the fuses themselves. Two 20A fuses will adequately protect the board traces, but they may or may not divide the 30A load evenly. So, for example, if slight resistance differences cause one fuse to carry 20A and the other to carry 10A the one carrying 20A will soon blow. Now the other must carry the entire 30A and will immediately blow. It gets worse with two 15A fuses. The only solution is to add enough circuit resistance to swamp out the individual variations, but this adds voltage drop. Not what you want. I go with Budward's idea of using one fuse in a slot with minimal board trace if possible. I'd also at least try the 20A fuse. The sticker on the motor is the max motor spec, not the way it's used. BTW this is a great discussion with lots of good thinking and ideas. This is why we're all here. Camp On! ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 5:50pm
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ok, im not going to give up just yet. Thanks for all the help. I got a little frustrated earlier when I got no help from the manufacturer of all people. I went and picked up some 20amp fuses. Im going to start there and see if the motor will run fine with them. If not, then I suppose I can try the other ideas you guys mentioned. Thanks a million for all the help.
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Posted By: Cap-n-Cray
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 6:14pm
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Just don't burn out the new unit... A 30AMP fuse might do that. ------------- Cary 2014 RP-177 |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 6:14pm
I agree and did point out unequal sharing- but look what both PD and WFCO did in their battery protection fuses- they did the same thing- Paralleled fuses!  ------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: spacemonkey
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 6:21pm
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well, im going to try the 20amp fuse. if that does not work, im going to return the unit and buy what i already had a know works. I cant afford to burn out another unit and then have to turn around and buy another one again. Using a 20amp fuse cant hurt anything right? Worst case is I burn the fuse up? On another note, looks like i will be getting another tv as well. I tried jumping the fuse with a little piece of copper wire like we discussed earlier. Plugged it in in and got a loud pop, and lots of smoke.....So yeah...its toast...lol
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Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 6:30pm
I agree and did point out unequal sharing- Yes you did and you were right but look what both PD and WFCO did in their battery protection fuses- they did the same thing- Paralleled fuses! Agreed and I don't like it here either. And PD is cutting it close with two 30s and a 55A charger rating.[/QUOTE] ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |