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Topic ClosedI made an expensive mistake

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Budward View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: I made an expensive mistake
    Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:47pm
Do you have a spare fuse location, you could parallel two 20A fuses to run the slide in a pinch.
 Sort of like WFCO did to provide reverse protection with two paralleled 40A fuses.
  You could even try 2 paralleled 15A fuses but they usually don't balance exactly so they may blow if it really draws 30.

Interesting that the Charge Wizard button is on the fuse board, on the one I did it was a wired remote, which I like better anyway since you can mount the remote in a convenient spot to work it and be able to see the status LED. 
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spacemonkey View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 2:47pm
cap-n-cray, thanks for the thought.  Im no expert with electrical and wouldn't have a clue how to do that...haha. 

Budward, i dont know how to wire it in parallel either... Big smile

I will go get some 20amp fuses and try, but Im thinking my best bet may to be just return the PD and replace it with a WFCO and call it done.  I dont really want to have to be changing out 20amp fuses to 30 amp fuses just to run my slideout 
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Cap-n-Cray View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:04pm
It would be very easy. You would need to get a 30AMP relay, most automotive stores would have one, and a inline 30AMP inline fuse.

Wire the normally open contacts on the relay through the 30AMP in line fuse from the battery and to the slide wire. Wire the relay's coil to the 20AMP (or smaller) on the panel.



Instead of the fuel pump the load would be the slide, 30. 86 would be from the out put of the panel.  85 would be ground. Everything should work like normal.
Cary
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Budward View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:06pm
Budward, i dont know how to wire it in parallel either.


What I would try- and this is just me-  is strip back the slide wire a little farther, separate the strands into a Y or fork and stick one half/side under one fuse screw and the other half under the adjacent fuse screw.  Insert two 15A fuses and try it out a few times...maybe even use two 20's if the 15's blow.
I'd feel ok with it- it isn't like you run the slide in and out all day long.

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:12pm
Well, I'd hate to see you give up on the PD; it's just a so much better unit. The ideas from Cap-n-Cray and Budward are good, but a bit complicated for you. The relay requires some smarts and work; the parallel fuse idea is conceptually easy but requires tricks to make them share equally. I don't think you'd have trouble with even a 30A fuse on the board. There is very little in that circuit on the board, but they have to put some limit on it. Is there any trouble getting the #10 wire into the screw terminal? BTW, the troubleshooting guide on my Schwintek slide unit recommends a 30A fuse too, but LL fused it at 15A in the PD converter and it works great. 
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Budward View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:15pm
Originally posted by CharlieM

  I don't think you'd have trouble with even a 30A fuse on the board.  


I agree- and I'd pick the fuse nearest to the convertor DC input block.  Minimize the amount of PC board foil to run through.   Looks like the 4th and 5th up from the bottom.
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Cap-n-Cray View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 3:15pm
If you split the power like Budward suggested. It would be better to have two wires from the panel and wire nut them together with the 10 gauge slide out wire.

I would hate to over load the new PD, but it should be protected by the fuses.
Cary
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 5:48pm
Originally posted by Budward

Originally posted by CharlieM

  I don't think you'd have trouble with even a 30A fuse on the board.  


I agree- and I'd pick the fuse nearest to the convertor DC input block.  Minimize the amount of PC board foil to run through.   Looks like the 4th and 5th up from the bottom.


Both ways of paralleling the two fuses have the same problem The slightest difference in resistance between the two paths will prevent the fuses from sharing equally. This includes the wires, the circuit board paths and their solder joints, the fuse clips, and even the fuses themselves. Two 20A fuses will adequately protect the board traces, but they may or may not divide the 30A load evenly. So, for example, if slight resistance differences cause one fuse to carry 20A and the other to carry 10A the one carrying 20A will soon blow. Now the other must carry the entire 30A and will immediately blow. It gets worse with two 15A fuses. The only solution is to add enough circuit resistance to swamp out the individual variations, but this adds voltage drop. Not what you want. I go with Budward's idea of using one fuse in a slot with minimal board trace if possible. I'd also at least try the 20A fuse. The sticker on the motor is the max motor spec, not the way it's used.

BTW this is a great discussion with lots of good thinking and ideas. This is why we're all here.  Camp On!

Charlie
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spacemonkey View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 5:50pm
ok, im not going to give up just yet.  Thanks for all the help.  I got a little frustrated earlier when  I got no help from the manufacturer of all people.  

I went and picked up some 20amp fuses.  Im going to start there and see if the motor will run fine with them.  If not, then I suppose I can try the other ideas you guys mentioned.  Thanks a million for all the help.
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Cap-n-Cray View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2014 at 6:14pm
Just don't burn out the new unit...

A 30AMP fuse might do that.
Cary
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